LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

AI 385 LT1 Motor Re-Build Thread....PICS/VIDEO!!!

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Old 01-03-2011, 09:05 AM
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Default AI 385 LT1 Motor Re-Build Thread....PICS/VIDEO!!!

Well winter is here and time for a project.........I already finished the custom wiring harness for the engine/trans/car......and i've got most of the cleanup work done under the hood.......now for a re-fresh on the motor......gonna re-ring, re-bearing and do a copule of little things to make it a little better.......i'll update with pics as I go along........


On its way out......







My buddy having some fun.......now thats a crotch rocket lol....



Removing the valvetrain........



Little bit of carbon but cylinders look good.....





The bottom end looks like it didn't even turn.......look absolutly perfect....







more pics tomorrow after i pull apart the shortblock tonite.....

Last edited by quik95lt1; 04-21-2011 at 09:34 PM.
Old 01-03-2011, 09:22 AM
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I'll be keeping an eye on this thread

What brand is your crank and rods?
Old 01-03-2011, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Colin91Z
I'll be keeping an eye on this thread

What brand is your crank and rods?
its a callies magnum crank and oliver billet rods
Old 01-03-2011, 10:31 AM
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Wow thats some badass stuff, kinda makes me embarrassed to say I went with a Howards crank and Scat rods for my 392 ci build
Old 01-03-2011, 10:32 AM
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Ill be watching this one too! Looks like new in there!
I pulled a 331 stroker out of 5.0 yesterday and we were taking the same pics, except the front suspension and k-member is on ours since we pulled everything from the bottom.
Old 01-03-2011, 04:13 PM
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FRAM!!!!! lol thats the key to making my lt1 go fast right??

that bottom end prob cost more than my car was lol looks good V
Old 01-03-2011, 04:20 PM
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Lookin good, can't wait to see what you come up with to hang on to that Mod NA title.

There are others gunning for you .
Old 01-03-2011, 05:47 PM
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that dont look like racecar stuff?
Old 01-03-2011, 06:24 PM
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Looks great - you have a nice set of parts in the bottom end. Mine is Scat 3.75" crank/6" rods, and Mahle pistons.
Old 01-03-2011, 06:38 PM
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Its amazing how well the rotating assembly looks whens its good stuff and put together with attention to detail...Two years ago, when my motor had 14 years on it, I pulled the pan to swap it with a Moroso stroker unit. The Lunati crank, Oliver billet 5.85" rods and JE pistons still looked brand damn new...Just as yours does...Good luck with the freshening.

--Alan
Old 01-03-2011, 07:19 PM
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The internals look great. Is this it's first freshening? rings, bearings,etc. And how often or when is it time to re-bearing, re-ring, rod bolts etc.?
Old 01-03-2011, 07:50 PM
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Those oliver rods look beefy
Old 01-03-2011, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ABA383
Its amazing how well the rotating assembly looks whens its good stuff and put together with attention to detail...Two years ago, when my motor had 14 years on it, I pulled the pan to swap it with a Moroso stroker unit. The Lunati crank, Oliver billet 5.85" rods and JE pistons still looked brand damn new...Just as yours does...Good luck with the freshening.

--Alan
That's more of a credit to the oil and low miles since there's nothing that wears on the parts that we can see. My 100k stock shortblock still looked new when I swapped oil pans.

But those billet parts do look purdy.
Old 01-03-2011, 07:56 PM
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Nice work, man. You get what you pay for Money well spent.

I see your running a Canton oil pan, how much oil do you run? what kind of oil, for that matter?

Just curious.
Old 01-03-2011, 10:20 PM
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you spent the money once and did it right. Very nice, interested in seeing where your going with it...
Old 01-04-2011, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Smoke Em
FRAM!!!!! lol thats the key to making my lt1 go fast right??

that bottom end prob cost more than my car was lol looks good V
yep fram FTW!!! the oil filter alone reduces my ET by .5 seconds hahaha

Originally Posted by Puck
Lookin good, can't wait to see what you come up with to hang on to that Mod NA title.

There are others gunning for you .
bring it on!!!

Originally Posted by BOLO
The internals look great. Is this it's first freshening? rings, bearings,etc. And how often or when is it time to re-bearing, re-ring, rod bolts etc.?
Yep first time its apart gonna re-ring and re-bearing it. As for the rod bolts I'm waiting on my new stretch gauge to come in before i take it apart. I'm gonna measure all the bolts as they come off and make sure they return the .0053 that i stretched them when i put it together....if they all return then they go back in if they dont then I get new ones. They should be fine though.

Originally Posted by flyinZ
Nice work, man. You get what you pay for Money well spent.

I see your running a Canton oil pan, how much oil do you run? what kind of oil, for that matter?

Just curious.
I was running 7qts of 20w50 Valvoline VR1 but I'm doing some oil control mods to the motor this time around so hopefully i can drop down that number and still maintain sufficent oil in the pan up at high rpm.
Old 01-04-2011, 10:34 AM
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oh and anybody reding this thread.......I have a nice set of hooker super comp 1 3/4" headers for sale......they are wrapped with DEI titanium exhaust wrap and also have extra O2 bungs welded into the collectors.......I also welded up the twin tubes in the middle at the flange to add strength and i corrected the geometry so they align and match with the ports perfectly.......ill post up some pic of them later tonite but i gotta get rid of them so i can put the $$$ toward the upcomming changes.....spread the word for me!!! They are freshly painted with Flameproof Black paint too.......looking to get $400

Thanks,
Mike V
Old 01-06-2011, 07:58 AM
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Well I pulled apart the shortblock last night to get the block ready to send off to the machine shop, and everything looked great!!! The only thing I noticed is the cylinder wall finish wasn't correct when I first built the motor becuase the rings didn't seat as well as I'd like, I spoke to JE about this already and have the solution ......heres some pics....


As you can see the rod bearings all looked great.....barely any wear at all on them.....



You can see here the cam also has virtually no wear on it......



Crank has a couple of little wear scuffs but nothing major....right now I'm running .001 undersize top bearing and STD bottom main bearing but I'm gonna polish the crank so i can acheive the .0027-.0029 with all STD bearings this time plus it will clean up the scuffs....



Here u can see the cam bearings....again very little wear...



Mains looked good as well....and you can also see the cylinder walls here.....the wear on them looked great no "spots" where wear was excessive indicating that there was no sever cylinder twist/walk due to the high rpm of this motor....thats a good sign!!! ....walls are a bit too shiny for me however, I'm not yet quite happy with the seating of the rings.....I will adjust for this on the re-assembly.....


All of the rod bolts returned their .0055 stretch indicating that the bolts are still in great shape and can be re-used...



The main caps required a pry bar and a BFH to remove on their tabs.....again a good sign indicating that the block has not encountered any type of twist or flex....




Block is heading off to the machine shop monday for a hone and hot tank after i knock the cam bearings out and make some modifications to the block for oil control.....also the crank is getting repolished and I found that I busted a tooth off of my flexplate when my starter crapped out....so a new flexplate will be balanced to neutral as well......more pics this weekend of the cleanup and preperation for re-assembly....
Old 01-06-2011, 09:15 AM
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thats one helluva setup! i wish i was able to build something that serious and for ***** and giggles tear it down to rebuild it awesome stuff!
Old 01-06-2011, 09:22 AM
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thanks lol......the main reason for the tear down was just to see how it was wearing and try to make a bit more power........i never had the motor apart and its always good just to check and see what it looks like......the next refresh will go prob 3 or 4 years.....


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