New engne build. Let me know what you think...
01-16-2011, 11:03 PM
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New engne build. Let me know what you think... Ok ill be using a factory 4 bolt block and a factory crank. Here is the list of components...
Bottom End
Factory Crank
L2256 Forged pistons
Forged i beams
Factory 4 Bolt
ARP Main and Rod Hardware
Top End
1.6 NSA Roller Rockers
Guide Plates
Ported Factory castings flowing in the 260/180 range
CC306
150-200 Nitrous Outlet Plate Kit
I know there is a lot more small stuff i need, but that is the gist of the idea i got goin on. im thinking somewhere in the 390-410 RWHP H/A range and then with the nitrous depending on size of shot in the 550 RWHP range. Hoping to score some mid 10's
Bottom End
Factory Crank
L2256 Forged pistons
Forged i beams
Factory 4 Bolt
ARP Main and Rod Hardware
Top End
1.6 NSA Roller Rockers
Guide Plates
Ported Factory castings flowing in the 260/180 range
CC306
150-200 Nitrous Outlet Plate Kit
I know there is a lot more small stuff i need, but that is the gist of the idea i got goin on. im thinking somewhere in the 390-410 RWHP H/A range and then with the nitrous depending on size of shot in the 550 RWHP range. Hoping to score some mid 10's
01-17-2011, 06:27 AM
#5
How did you go about picking that piston??? Thicker rings than stock for more parasitic loss and a LOT heavier than stock.
Not that flow numbers are the real measure of a head but I am going to guess he chose LE1s which Lloyd advertises as "flow about 260/180 CFM" right on his website. Lloyd also puts a 360-400+rwhp range I would assume the high end of that would be with one of his custom cams not a decade+ old dinosaur cam. So how is it you expect to hit the stated HP goal, through an A4 no less?
You are buying parts on price and price alone, that will be expensive in the long run.
May well get 10s out of it, but if you did it right you could do better.
Not that flow numbers are the real measure of a head but I am going to guess he chose LE1s which Lloyd advertises as "flow about 260/180 CFM" right on his website. Lloyd also puts a 360-400+rwhp range I would assume the high end of that would be with one of his custom cams not a decade+ old dinosaur cam. So how is it you expect to hit the stated HP goal, through an A4 no less?
You are buying parts on price and price alone, that will be expensive in the long run.
May well get 10s out of it, but if you did it right you could do better.
01-17-2011, 06:42 AM
#6
If you want to run the CC306 despite what others are telling you otherwise do it. Sure it will benifit you to buy custom grind suited for for the heads and goal you have in mind but its your build/budget. The biggest thing you need to do is get that cam to breathe and you need more headflow and compression to make the best out of it. I would look into a bigger head to match the cam and run at minimum a full point of compression more then stock. Thats the biggest mistake alot of stock headed stock shortblock cc306users do is slap that big cam in there wonder why it doesnt work and pull down low and screams up high where your limits of a stock bottom end are with it running out of steam with small volume headflow.
So the answer is yes you can make your goal for sure but IMHO you need to have compression and a head that will match that big cam as i dont think 260/180 cfm is going to cut it with that big cam.
So the answer is yes you can make your goal for sure but IMHO you need to have compression and a head that will match that big cam as i dont think 260/180 cfm is going to cut it with that big cam.
01-17-2011, 07:33 AM
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How did you go about picking that piston??? Thicker rings than stock for more parasitic loss and a LOT heavier than stock.
Not that flow numbers are the real measure of a head but I am going to guess he chose LE1s which Lloyd advertises as "flow about 260/180 CFM" right on his website. Lloyd also puts a 360-400+rwhp range I would assume the high end of that would be with one of his custom cams not a decade+ old dinosaur cam. So how is it you expect to hit the stated HP goal, through an A4 no less?
You are buying parts on price and price alone, that will be expensive in the long run.
May well get 10s out of it, but if you did it right you could do better.
Not that flow numbers are the real measure of a head but I am going to guess he chose LE1s which Lloyd advertises as "flow about 260/180 CFM" right on his website. Lloyd also puts a 360-400+rwhp range I would assume the high end of that would be with one of his custom cams not a decade+ old dinosaur cam. So how is it you expect to hit the stated HP goal, through an A4 no less?
You are buying parts on price and price alone, that will be expensive in the long run.
May well get 10s out of it, but if you did it right you could do better.
as for the cc306, im fine with the fact that its old technology. Its proven its self time and time again.
and on the heads right now im looking at a set that flows more in realm of the LE2 heads.
I plan reaching my goal by spinning the cam to its full potential. There are entirely too many people who do not spin that cam as far as it needs to be spun. Too many people running it on stock bottom ends. plus the wide split in duration is good for N2O.
If you want to run the CC306 despite what others are telling you otherwise do it. Sure it will benifit you to buy custom grind suited for for the heads and goal you have in mind but its your build/budget. The biggest thing you need to do is get that cam to breathe and you need more headflow and compression to make the best out of it. I would look into a bigger head to match the cam and run at minimum a full point of compression more then stock. Thats the biggest mistake alot of stock headed stock shortblock cc306users do is slap that big cam in there wonder why it doesnt work and pull down low and screams up high where your limits of a stock bottom end are with it running out of steam with small volume headflow.
So the answer is yes you can make your goal for sure but IMHO you need to have compression and a head that will match that big cam as i dont think 260/180 cfm is going to cut it with that big cam.
So the answer is yes you can make your goal for sure but IMHO you need to have compression and a head that will match that big cam as i dont think 260/180 cfm is going to cut it with that big cam.
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01-17-2011, 08:05 AM
#8
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those humongous thick rings will work just fine. people been flying with those for years. the cc306 would be a pretty decent cam on the bottle, but otherwise i would give bullet a call. (cc306 would be a budget minded selection)
01-17-2011, 09:08 AM
#9
How did you go about picking that piston??? Thicker rings than stock for more parasitic loss and a LOT heavier than stock.
Not that flow numbers are the real measure of a head but I am going to guess he chose LE1s which Lloyd advertises as "flow about 260/180 CFM" right on his website. Lloyd also puts a 360-400+rwhp range I would assume the high end of that would be with one of his custom cams not a decade+ old dinosaur cam. So how is it you expect to hit the stated HP goal, through an A4 no less?
You are buying parts on price and price alone, that will be expensive in the long run.
May well get 10s out of it, but if you did it right you could do better.
Not that flow numbers are the real measure of a head but I am going to guess he chose LE1s which Lloyd advertises as "flow about 260/180 CFM" right on his website. Lloyd also puts a 360-400+rwhp range I would assume the high end of that would be with one of his custom cams not a decade+ old dinosaur cam. So how is it you expect to hit the stated HP goal, through an A4 no less?
You are buying parts on price and price alone, that will be expensive in the long run.
May well get 10s out of it, but if you did it right you could do better.
Well you may not believe that it can be done with a "decade old dinosaur cam" but well your just plain wrong.
DJM_E22 made 403whp SAE through a 9" and T56 with a cc306 and LE1s. Been a while since I talked to llyod about it but I dont think DJM went with the valve upgrade which would mean he has stock valves.
01-17-2011, 11:08 AM
#10
I said it may well get the job done.
The pistons are not a deal breaker either but all the extra weight is bad for rodbolt/bearing life. There is tremendous stress on those parts when the piston hits TDC and the rod has to stop it and pull it back down on the intake stroke, a lighter piston makes for a LOT less load on critical parts at that time.
When I was a little younger I did things on price and learned that it is a lot more expensive in the long run.
01-17-2011, 11:58 AM
#11
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Not saying there are not better piston choices, but this same basic flattop/4 eyebrow forging has been used for 50 years in 350's. Before that the same design was used in the shorter stroke 327's just with a compression distance (pin height) and therefore a heavier piston....and people spin the hell outta those.
01-17-2011, 02:29 PM
#13
I would get a custom cam for sure....the 306 works but you can find one used for roughly 200 shipped. You will get 10s on spray if you know what your doing! You will also run 12s on motor. Its hard to reach 10s on spray, BUT if you have the right kit, know how you can achieve that or else you will have a 11 sec ride all day. I like the build you have although its on a budget. Others will hate on it and tell you that you should go better. Not everyone has money to achieve great power.
01-17-2011, 02:37 PM
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I would get a custom cam for sure....the 306 works but you can find one used for roughly 200 shipped. You will get 10s on spray if you know what your doing! You will also run 12s on motor. Its hard to reach 10s on spray, BUT if you have the right kit, know how you can achieve that or else you will have a 11 sec ride all day. I like the build you have although its on a budget. Others will hate on it and tell you that you should go better. Not everyone has money to achieve great power.
