wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I am using the D-shaped locks on my Stage 8 locking bolts and I am wondering if the cone shaped locks might work better.

I need to get some replacement locks from Stage 8 so I can get either type. Sometimes the D-shaped locks need a little trimming to work best. Maybe the Cone shaped dont require this.

What locks do you guys use with LT's?

djjab57

iTrader: (17)

i have the D shaped ones and they all went on pretty easily

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

I had used the stage 8s and when I did header gaskets I found that they all loosened up a bit. I kept the stage 8 bolts and used a two piece washer from Totally Stainless. Its two stacked thin washers that create friction between them making them lock together and prevent backing out. They are on page 82 of their internet catalogue and are called "vibration proof lock washers-made in Sweden." They work great. Should give the new owner many trouble free, leak free years...

--Alan

1994Sleeper

I used the D shaped locks when I installed my Pacesetters. I had to grind maybe 4 of them to get them to fit on. A couple seconds on the bench grinder, thats all.

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

exactly what he did...but arp ftw

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

No locks. ARP's 3/8X.075" bolt and they stay torqued. Never understood those who use locks go to those lengths.

Fazz73jr

iTrader: (3)

D shaped here as well.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The only reason head bolts "loosen" is because of gasket compression which requires retightening of the bolts. Use a good gasket and check the bolts after the first few drives and all is good.

Amazes me what people **** away money on but then where it really counts have to "save".

great421

iTrader: (1)

Those washers are called "Nord-Lock" - and Yes! they work quite well. When I worked at Ford Motor Company back in 2004 I was the Project Manager in charge of the creation of a modern Theaded Fastener Joint Handbook for Ford - as their last handbook was dated 1977 and did not include any Metric specs. I looked into those double washers with the interlocking ramps - very cool! Once they're torqued to a particular value ("X"), it actually takes MORE than "X" torque in the opposite direction to loosen them. Nord-Lock's sales rep told me that Hummer used them on all the government's HMVee's (aka - H1's) so that items would NEVER vibrate off.

If you can get Nord-Lock washers for your headers, then you won't have to worry about those bolts vibrating loose; now stress relaxation and the heat load annealing / weakening a fastener under tension, now that's another story - those are both still issues which cannot be resolved with Nord-Lock washers; to fix those issues use Grade 8 (or Metric 10.9) fasteners threaded into clean lightly oiled holes.

BALLSS

got the stage 8 "D" lock bolts 12 years ago. I don't install the D ring until after a few heat cycles on the headers and then re-tighten. Then I put the D rung with lock clip on.

As mentioned had to grind a few corners on D ring.

few head/motor swaps still using the same bolts...bolts have never backed out to even put pressure on locking D ring.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I did the same thing but now I need a few new ones, thats all. The D-shaped locks have a 6 point inside hole and the cone shaped appear to have a 12 point inside hole. This makes me think that grinding may not really be needed to get them in their optimum position.

FTR I have never had a back out problem.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

I used regular old ARP bolts for years. Check them once or twice after installation and they will never come loose. I never understood all the screwing around with locking header bolts.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I see the locking bolts as 100% piece of mind. I would rather spend 20 minutes foolling with locks than spend an hour or two replacing gaskets should some loosen up.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

See this is what drives me nuts, the complete refusal to comprehend or learn. Bolts do not loosen, gaskets compress, a locking bolt wont fix that. Once the gasket compresses that loosens the bolt.

05HD

Agreed! My $7 auto parts store MrGasket header bolts are still nice and tight over a year of daily driving later.

duh

iTrader: (16)

I used the d-shaped...had to trim one...actully need to replace one, but that's another story...

MasterTomos

iTrader: (15)

D shaped here as well, going on 4 years without a single gasket leak.

ABA383

iTrader: (1)

In my case it wasn't about "failing to comprehend and learn" I used the stage 8 bolt system, re-torqued the bolts, and the kooks header gaskets basically disintegrated over time, causing a leak and the subsequent "loosening" of the bolts...When I called Kooks about new gaskets even they didnt recommend their own gaskets and suggested the Fel-pros that I wound up installing. I went with the new totally stainless friction locking washer for piece of mind, and frankly, I just wasn't impressed with the stage 8 locking system.

--Alan

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

One of the largest problems with the stage 8 bolts is that because the bolt head is 7/16" you can barely get a wrench on them to truly torque them to where a header bolt needs to be. Therefore you are depending on a "lock" to keep the bolts in place on a header bolt that isn't tightened where it should be to where the gasket will most likely eventually blow out.
Solving this problem is extremely easy. Either an ARP 5/16" or 3/8" header bolt will give ample room to properly torque the headers where they need to be. Gasket shrinkage and a required torquing? No problem! Because of all the room you have it takes a mere 5 minutes to retorque all the bolts. I challenge anyone with stage 8 junk be able to effectively torque their bolts and set the locks to where they need to be w/in that allotted time.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

ive been using those percys split lock bolts with the set screw in the middle........they work great!!!