Lt1 intake
02-06-2011, 09:58 PM
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Lt1 intake Does any one know if an LT1 intake will fit on vortec heads? I already have an LT1 manifold, and a running TPI setup in my 97 truck, but would like to step up to the LT1manifold as it has better upper rpm results, my TPI runs out before 5500
02-06-2011, 10:13 PM
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You will need to have the factory LT1 intake machined for distributor clearance, and drilled for the distributor, either a spacer or a filler plate made to angle the distributor correctly. Then you will need to have the rear coolant ports drilled and tapped as well as run a remote thermostat housing.
I am currently trying to find someone to do one for me as well.
I am currently trying to find someone to do one for me as well.
02-07-2011, 06:42 PM
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Get yourself a Holley Stealth Ram for Vortec heads. Get the injector rails to match it....with or without adjustable regulator are available. It's all off the shelf, bolt on and go. It's not that expensive either.
If you go the LT1 intake route, you have to modify everything mentioned above....distributor hole and spacer....bolt holes to mount it. A few more bucks to block the EGR ports back there. It all adds up.
Also, the ramjet intake mentioned above will bolt up, but it's designed for an LS style throttle body, so that's another hurdle to get over.
The HSR kicks butt. Alot of people modify them to put on there LT1's.
If you go the LT1 intake route, you have to modify everything mentioned above....distributor hole and spacer....bolt holes to mount it. A few more bucks to block the EGR ports back there. It all adds up.
Also, the ramjet intake mentioned above will bolt up, but it's designed for an LS style throttle body, so that's another hurdle to get over.
The HSR kicks butt. Alot of people modify them to put on there LT1's.
02-07-2011, 10:47 PM
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Get yourself a Holley Stealth Ram for Vortec heads. Get the injector rails to match it....with or without adjustable regulator are available. It's all off the shelf, bolt on and go. It's not that expensive either.
If you go the LT1 intake route, you have to modify everything mentioned above....distributor hole and spacer....bolt holes to mount it. A few more bucks to block the EGR ports back there. It all adds up.
Also, the ramjet intake mentioned above will bolt up, but it's designed for an LS style throttle body, so that's another hurdle to get over.
The HSR kicks butt. Alot of people modify them to put on there LT1's.
If you go the LT1 intake route, you have to modify everything mentioned above....distributor hole and spacer....bolt holes to mount it. A few more bucks to block the EGR ports back there. It all adds up.
Also, the ramjet intake mentioned above will bolt up, but it's designed for an LS style throttle body, so that's another hurdle to get over.
The HSR kicks butt. Alot of people modify them to put on there LT1's.
"not that Expensive either?" dang son I need your bank account. $500+ rails and manifold, with no extras?
????? I'll take a dozen NOT!my son works in a machine shop and can get the machine work done cheap to free. called my programmer, he has built 2 of these himself, so on I go. may even put an LT manifold on the wifes '99 Burb as well "since I got one complete"
02-07-2011, 10:51 PM
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You will need to have the factory LT1 intake machined for distributor clearance, and drilled for the distributor, either a spacer or a filler plate made to angle the distributor correctly. Then you will need to have the rear coolant ports drilled and tapped as well as run a remote thermostat housing.
I am currently trying to find someone to do one for me as well.
I am currently trying to find someone to do one for me as well.
02-07-2011, 11:15 PM
#7
"not that Expensive either?" dang son I need your bank account. $500+ rails and manifold, with no extras?????? I'll take a dozen NOT!
my son works in a machine shop and can get the machine work done cheap to free. called my programmer, he has built 2 of these himself, so on I go. may even put an LT manifold on the wifes '99 Burb as well "since I got one complete"
????? I'll take a dozen NOT!my son works in a machine shop and can get the machine work done cheap to free. called my programmer, he has built 2 of these himself, so on I go. may even put an LT manifold on the wifes '99 Burb as well "since I got one complete"
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02-08-2011, 12:00 AM
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you tryin to horn in on my cash cow ??? 
02-08-2011, 01:44 AM
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I'm with you ..... but It did not have the power I thought should be there, so I am ditching it. plus the motor is fried "bad water pump" so I am basically at square one, going with an LT1 "complete" motor, just need to modify for the vortec distributor, and a 12200411 LS series ECU. I will do my best to document the conversion 
02-08-2011, 05:09 AM
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I assume you're doing the 24x conversion? You will need the Vortec timing cover, 24 tooth reluctor wheel and crank sensor as well (not sure if the stock vortec crank sensor will work with the 24 tooth reluctor).
02-08-2011, 06:36 AM
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"not that Expensive either?" dang son I need your bank account. $500+ rails and manifold, with no extras?????? I'll take a dozen NOT!
my son works in a machine shop and can get the machine work done cheap to free. called my programmer, he has built 2 of these himself, so on I go. may even put an LT manifold on the wifes '99 Burb as well "since I got one complete"
????? I'll take a dozen NOT!my son works in a machine shop and can get the machine work done cheap to free. called my programmer, he has built 2 of these himself, so on I go. may even put an LT manifold on the wifes '99 Burb as well "since I got one complete"
1. vortec base tpi, large tube runners, ported plenum, etc.
2. tpis mini-ram
3. Accel superram
All three of which you can't touch for $500. Usually not even used.
02-09-2011, 01:25 AM
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Negative it will be 4X, this is a 96 with everything already on the crank.
02-09-2011, 01:42 AM
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It wouldn't be as fancy, but it would be so much easier and cheaper to just run the LT1 which you are already modding for a distributor to run off of the TPI harness and computer. Just drop the distributor in, plug it all up, and you're done. All the sensors will fit from the tpi to the lt1. Most aren't any different to start with. All you would have to do is get a chip for the combination.
02-09-2011, 05:21 PM
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It wouldn't be as fancy, but it would be so much easier and cheaper to just run the LT1 which you are already modding for a distributor to run off of the TPI harness and computer. Just drop the distributor in, plug it all up, and you're done. All the sensors will fit from the tpi to the lt1. Most aren't any different to start with. All you would have to do is get a chip for the combination.
You are absolutly correct!! My problem is I am currently running the Vortec ECU with a known bad program. Lets not open that can of worms! I need to get a running ECU that will work with EFI Live series 1, hence the swap to the '411 ECU.
02-09-2011, 05:33 PM
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$500 isn't bad IF you didn't have access to free machine work. Modding your stock lt1 intake would take a big chunk of that away if you had to pay for the shop labor. Also....as a fellow TPI owner....I was thinking in comparison to:
1. vortec base tpi, large tube runners, ported plenum, etc.
2. tpis mini-ram
3. Accel superram
All three of which you can't touch for $500. Usually not even used.
1. vortec base tpi, large tube runners, ported plenum, etc.
2. tpis mini-ram
3. Accel superram
All three of which you can't touch for $500. Usually not even used.
next step, I contacted an old friend of mine, that designed and built the "first" fluid damper. I explained what we are up against, he said that he would be willing to assist me with this. I have a bare LT1 block, and can purchase Iron head cores for $70 so all we need is time and money
. as soon as I can get more information, I'll get it out. I am going to do this on my rig!!
02-09-2011, 07:00 PM
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Well, I found out that I don't have access to free machine work. the son is working an a multi-million dollar job that requires OT, and he is even doing CNC programming at home for the project. turning 14 to 18 hours a day until it is done??? oh well!
next step, I contacted an old friend of mine, that designed and built the "first" fluid damper. I explained what we are up against, he said that he would be willing to assist me with this. I have a bare LT1 block, and can purchase Iron head cores for $70 so all we need is time and money. as soon as I can get more information, I'll get it out. I am going to do this on my rig!!
next step, I contacted an old friend of mine, that designed and built the "first" fluid damper. I explained what we are up against, he said that he would be willing to assist me with this. I have a bare LT1 block, and can purchase Iron head cores for $70 so all we need is time and money
. as soon as I can get more information, I'll get it out. I am going to do this on my rig!!
02-09-2011, 10:30 PM
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I have some ready to install bone stock iron lt1 heads I'll let go for that plus shipping. They were rebuilt to stock specs about 2 years ago (at a couple hundred bucks expense), but the engine didn't have 50 miles put on it afterwards. I bought the car not running due to mostly wiring problems and I'm not going to be using the iron heads. I've already got some stock aluminum ones to bolt on it.
