timing cover vs oil pan gasket
02-12-2011, 09:39 AM
#1
timing cover vs oil pan gasket This may have been answered but i cant seem to search for the right thing as far as replacing the oil pan gasket goes. I am mid cam swap, the new cam has been in the block, timing set is on, I got a new felpro oil pan gasket, timing cover gasket, water pump gasket/seals.
Does the timing cover need to come off in order to do the oil pan gasket? Its winter here and i dont have heat in the garage and i really just dont want to mess with it right now, id rather move on to other things and leave the pan gasket (and all of its wonderfulness) for later. Can i start putting the front of the engine back together and come back to the pan gasket? or will i just need to remove everything to do the pan gasket, im not sure since it and the timing cover kind of work together to form the front seal. In removing the timing cover befor, i just ripped the pan gasket since i needed a new one anyways. Im thinking about buttoning up the front of the engine (timing cover, opti spark, coil, water pump) and just comming back to the pan gasket.
Also for future reference, the hardlines that run on the drivers side of the pan gasket from the oil filter housing, how do i remove these? they seem to be in the way of the oil pan bolts. And does anybody have any tricks for the motor mounts? Im really just being lazy, im sure i could go figure it out but i just dont want to lay on a cold cement floor and deal with it right now.
btw I got a new job, so the project should be moving forward quickly now! Next purchase is ls7 lifters and depending on deals i can find the headers/valve springs/rocker arms will all come into play. Id like to find the rocker arms used and possibly headers too, so it just depends what deals are available. Im excited, cant wait to hear her fire up!
Does the timing cover need to come off in order to do the oil pan gasket? Its winter here and i dont have heat in the garage and i really just dont want to mess with it right now, id rather move on to other things and leave the pan gasket (and all of its wonderfulness) for later. Can i start putting the front of the engine back together and come back to the pan gasket? or will i just need to remove everything to do the pan gasket, im not sure since it and the timing cover kind of work together to form the front seal. In removing the timing cover befor, i just ripped the pan gasket since i needed a new one anyways. Im thinking about buttoning up the front of the engine (timing cover, opti spark, coil, water pump) and just comming back to the pan gasket.
Also for future reference, the hardlines that run on the drivers side of the pan gasket from the oil filter housing, how do i remove these? they seem to be in the way of the oil pan bolts. And does anybody have any tricks for the motor mounts? Im really just being lazy, im sure i could go figure it out but i just dont want to lay on a cold cement floor and deal with it right now.
btw I got a new job, so the project should be moving forward quickly now! Next purchase is ls7 lifters and depending on deals i can find the headers/valve springs/rocker arms will all come into play. Id like to find the rocker arms used and possibly headers too, so it just depends what deals are available. Im excited, cant wait to hear her fire up!
02-12-2011, 09:51 AM
#2
The timing cover does not need to come off to do the oil pan gasket.
It sounds like you have an oil cooler. While you're down there DELETE IT. Just remove all of the lines, remove the oil fill adapter, and grind off the "stud" portion of the mounting bolts, then either block the single fitting on the water pump and radiator, OR replace it with the oil cooler bypass hose (GM PN 10197675).
It sounds like you have an oil cooler. While you're down there DELETE IT. Just remove all of the lines, remove the oil fill adapter, and grind off the "stud" portion of the mounting bolts, then either block the single fitting on the water pump and radiator, OR replace it with the oil cooler bypass hose (GM PN 10197675).
02-13-2011, 01:07 AM
#5
Because the negatives far outweigh what positives there MIGHT be. Most notably that they have been known to CLOG and drastically reduce oil pressure and on some well-documented cases plug up completely and destroy an engine. Not to mention when you delete it you free up a ton of room near the k-member and can run a tall oil filter.
GM dropped it as an option after the 1995 model year so it is not critical.
If you DO want to run an oil cooler run an aftermarket one. The stock one pretty much sucks.
GM dropped it as an option after the 1995 model year so it is not critical.
If you DO want to run an oil cooler run an aftermarket one. The stock one pretty much sucks.
02-13-2011, 12:42 PM
#6
Because the negatives far outweigh what positives there MIGHT be. Most notably that they have been known to CLOG and drastically reduce oil pressure and on some well-documented cases plug up completely and destroy an engine. Not to mention when you delete it you free up a ton of room near the k-member and can run a tall oil filter.
GM dropped it as an option after the 1995 model year so it is not critical.
If you DO want to run an oil cooler run an aftermarket one. The stock one pretty much sucks.
GM dropped it as an option after the 1995 model year so it is not critical.
If you DO want to run an oil cooler run an aftermarket one. The stock one pretty much sucks.
02-13-2011, 12:56 PM
#7
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Thanks for the info never knew that it was discontineud after 95, i still have mine, and dont have any problem, good oil pressure, no leaking and as far as i know no clogging (otherwise i would see the oil pressure drop). For now i wont go tru the hassel of removing mine.
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02-13-2011, 01:38 PM
#8
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Because the negatives far outweigh what positives there MIGHT be. Most notably that they have been known to CLOG and drastically reduce oil pressure and on some well-documented cases plug up completely and destroy an engine. Not to mention when you delete it you free up a ton of room near the k-member and can run a tall oil filter.
GM dropped it as an option after the 1995 model year so it is not critical.
If you DO want to run an oil cooler run an aftermarket one. The stock one pretty much sucks.
GM dropped it as an option after the 1995 model year so it is not critical.
If you DO want to run an oil cooler run an aftermarket one. The stock one pretty much sucks.
