Should I do anything with these pistons? PICS
03-17-2011, 04:19 PM
#1
Should I do anything with these pistons? PICS Ok I have decided to go head and clean everything up and fit this thing back together. I have come to the conclusion with help from others that the intake was leaking and the PCV system was cycling a bit of oil. I am going to add a catch can, Clean out the Head bolt holes in the block clean up the heads and bolt them back on and see what can be done with this intake. I taked to Lloyd and he told me I should not have a problem with it sealing as long as the bolts are not binding. After closer inspection and clean up of the intake I see thread makes on the walls of the bolt holes. Before I end up bolting the heads back on should I do anything with these piston tops. You can see that back Number 7 cylinder is clean since thats the cylinder water was geting into and it cleaned up real easy with a rag. I did the best I could to make sure the gunk did not end up down by the rings. I had the piston all the way to the top just starting on the down stroke so anything that fell in there could be cleaned up by lowering the piston. Number 8 is the same way. What do you guys think? the thatch on the cylinders is fine there is no scaring at all so I think the rings are ok and not the problem at all. Here are the pics.
03-17-2011, 04:33 PM
#2
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Well there is one thing i use at the dealer a few years ago to clean off pistons but im not sure where you could get it except for the jeep dealer and that is Combustion Cleaner. it comes in a spray can that is white and blue. It sprays out liquid foam and then expands very well into a lather and cleans up sylinders and pistons very good. its the best stuff i have ever seen work. If you have the time i would do that will look like a brand new piston and cylinder when done.
03-17-2011, 08:21 PM
#3
Got them clean. Turned the engine so the cylinder bore was facing down at the ground and used small amounts of cleaner and cloth rags to clean the pistons while they were at the top of the stroke. came nice and clean. then re oiled the cylinder walls.
03-17-2011, 09:05 PM
#4
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Wow looks great. You must not have had very much run time on this. Now is this the block that you have had so much problem with.And every shop that has touched it messed something up?
03-17-2011, 10:04 PM
#5
Yes this is the one and know the run time was only 4k miles and it was just caked oil, it had not really been leaking long at all. Decided last night I'll just figure it out and stop trusting people around me for a bit and see if I can do a better job than them lol.
03-18-2011, 12:59 AM
#7
It's supposed to like the proformabuilt level 2 but it isn't. Supposed to be able to hold 500 hp but wont. lol it's junk and because I don't have a very large budget for the car every year I have to do things slow. I laid out 1600 for that trans so I am kind of stuck with what I got. just like with the engine lol, laid out about 4500 and it did not last. Thats why I am done with having other people do stuff for me. I am sure there are great people out there but I have no luck at all when it comes to this car. My wife and I say it's cursed by my late Step dad who left it to me. LOL IDK man. Once the engine is done I have to start saving for the rear and then I will work my way back around to the trans again.
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03-18-2011, 10:47 AM
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whats wrong with your rear end? What do you need to finish your motor? maybe i can help you out and get you some parts at cost. As for the tranny its a 4l60e your running? I can also help you there as well, i built mine with alot of goodies to hold up under high power, at first i broke imput shaft,then blew up a few converters, after that the sun shell exploded 2 times, both were hardened. So i have learned over the years what parts work and what parts are junk. I now have billet parts in some places to hold the extra stress, as well i have alot of upgrades to make the tranny stronger. We could build it in a day or so with all the parts. 1600 fr a level 2 caint be much for performance inside, not trying to bash you at all so please dont take it like that. 1800 for a stock rebuild is about average with a converter and installation at a shity place like aamco or so. we could do it for much less than that. I might even have some extra parts laying around you may be able to use for your engine and trans, i also have some rear end bearings shims, i also have 2 or 3 carriers one mini spool carrier all are series 3 for taller gears.
03-18-2011, 11:45 AM
#9
Use the fel pro performance gaskets with the slicone bead.Torque the intake to spec using the proper sequence.Re torque it when cold after you have run it for a few times.Use ARP thread sealant on the head bolts,and maybe check/re seal the rocker studs.Get all new PCV hoses,valve and valve cover+intake grommets and use mini clamps at all connections.Gaet a saikou michi catch can.Wipe the oil form the bores,you dont need that much in in there,only a light coat on the rings
03-19-2011, 12:08 PM
#11
whats wrong with your rear end? What do you need to finish your motor? maybe i can help you out and get you some parts at cost. As for the tranny its a 4l60e your running? I can also help you there as well, i built mine with alot of goodies to hold up under high power, at first i broke imput shaft,then blew up a few converters, after that the sun shell exploded 2 times, both were hardened. So i have learned over the years what parts work and what parts are junk. I now have billet parts in some places to hold the extra stress, as well i have alot of upgrades to make the tranny stronger. We could build it in a day or so with all the parts. 1600 fr a level 2 caint be much for performance inside, not trying to bash you at all so please dont take it like that. 1800 for a stock rebuild is about average with a converter and installation at a shity place like aamco or so. we could do it for much less than that. I might even have some extra parts laying around you may be able to use for your engine and trans, i also have some rear end bearings shims, i also have 2 or 3 carriers one mini spool carrier all are series 3 for taller gears.
03-19-2011, 03:03 PM
#12
Thanks man. Yea I am figuring out what happened and at this point I am gona get it back together and run it untill I can find someone I trust to build the spare LT1 engine correctly. That may mean that I will do the assembly but we shall see. This thing has some issues I can't really afford to get around but it should be just fine with the addition of a catch can. Has a couple of light scares on the cylinder walls from who ever not being carefull durring assembly. Nothing I am too concerend about right now as I don't drive it that much. The intake bolt holes were not drilled to the correct size so I talked to lloyd and I will do that as soon as I get the heads cleaned up and back on. The oil was comming from 2 places, The intake gaskets are one due to the intake bolts binding on the inside of the intake bolt holes and the other was throught the PCV system lightley coating the inside of the intake more than likley from the light scars in the cylinder walls causing slightly higher crank case pressure with some blow by. Not going to worry about it to much but I still have to check the bearings and if thats ok it will go back together for a year or two and then maybe I will me able get what I want built. It's more of a go out and blow off some steam car. It's a cast crank so can't get as wild with it as I wanted to originally.
03-20-2011, 12:12 PM
#16
Thanks brother I may take you up on that once I am done cleaning this thing up. Yea those are Forged blower pistons -16cc. Unreal that eagle in their infinite wisdom would sell a kit and a builder in his infinite wisdom would buy such kit that has a cast crank good to only 500 flywheel hp that would drop the compression down to close to 9.6 to 1. I remember when my father called me and told me what pistons it was going to have in it, I was in a panic to try and have him return it and order a forged set up for it because eventually I did want to run a small S/C setup on it. Then he told me the damn thing had already been put together and that the crank was cast and I was in a mad dash to find compression since it had to be N/A since I talked to what’s his face at eagle and he said don't push it to 500 flywheel and I was like F%$K. Kind of hard to stay under 500 flywheel hp with a blower or turbo. That’s why this thing has been an abortion since the word go. It has great pistons in it thought lol.
03-20-2011, 12:17 PM
#17
Use the fel pro performance gaskets with the slicone bead.Torque the intake to spec using the proper sequence.Re torque it when cold after you have run it for a few times.Use ARP thread sealant on the head bolts,and maybe check/re seal the rocker studs.Get all new PCV hoses,valve and valve cover+intake grommets and use mini clamps at all connections.Gaet a saikou michi catch can.Wipe the oil form the bores,you dont need that much in in there,only a light coat on the rings
