Best way to dent SS Headers?
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Best way to dent SS Headers?
Finally getting my motor out to check on some things and straighten up a bit. My headers have been rattling my car giving me headaches so I'm going to force some clearance.
I've heard on here to heat it up and hit it with a ball hammer. The only place I'll be denting the primary is for the steering knuckle and it doesn't need to go in much. I just don't want to damage the header, so what's the best way to do this?
Also the driver's side is rubbing on the k-member in the common spot for the ebay headers. Is there anything problems with grinding the k-member in that area for clearance?
I've heard on here to heat it up and hit it with a ball hammer. The only place I'll be denting the primary is for the steering knuckle and it doesn't need to go in much. I just don't want to damage the header, so what's the best way to do this?
Also the driver's side is rubbing on the k-member in the common spot for the ebay headers. Is there anything problems with grinding the k-member in that area for clearance?
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Heat it with a torch where u need the clearance an simply push an object with the desired shape against the hot spot... Viola, it's stronger this way... Use a side cutter,sawzall or angle grinder to clearance the k- member ... No probs ... Take it from experience.
Mike
Mike
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Well, I'm definitely trying to avoid a hole, lol. Thanks for the info. I was going to heat it and wack it with a hammer, so you saved me some time and money on that one. I'll try just taking a deep impact socket, like 13/16 or 3/4 and pressing it in where I need the clearance.
#6
Take a pair of c-clamp vise grips, cut off swivel ends or flat end, v-notch for 2"~long x 1.5" angle, weld angle to v-notch, this will be the seat for the tube to lie in, on other vise grip clamp end weld something with the desired shape of dent. Place angle on back side of tube and close the vise grip to press in the area you wish to dent. This method gives you more control of the dent.
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#12
looks like ill be doing this as well, stupid steering kuckle, i was gonna make a thread about it since i read about k member issues but not steering knuckle issues, glad i didnt.
plus ill be grinding/cutting the k member.
Really so far (havent looked at the passenger side) they arnt much worse then my other name brand sponser headers, i had to smack a ho with those too, least i dont feel bad smacking these since they are cheap.
plus ill be grinding/cutting the k member.
Really so far (havent looked at the passenger side) they arnt much worse then my other name brand sponser headers, i had to smack a ho with those too, least i dont feel bad smacking these since they are cheap.
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I'm glad you brought this back so I can make a follow up report. I haven't put the motor back in the car but I did dent the headers and K-member and I'm about 99.999999999% sure I won't have any issues anymore.
Headers: I heated up the area until it was red hot and hit it with a flat hammer. Started out with small taps, but ended up hitting it pretty hard once I saw no signs of cracking or holes. Had to heat, hit 3-4 times and repeat until you get enough clearance. Even with a torch it takes a good smack to persuade that stainless.
K-member: Instead of grinding, we had the torch out already, so we did the same thing as the headers, heated it up and hit it with a hammer....well about an 8lb maul actually.
Car: No heat used, just climbed in the motor bay (with the motor out) and used the maul mentioned above. I only needed about 1/4" but I went at least 1 1/2" just to be sure.
Headers: I heated up the area until it was red hot and hit it with a flat hammer. Started out with small taps, but ended up hitting it pretty hard once I saw no signs of cracking or holes. Had to heat, hit 3-4 times and repeat until you get enough clearance. Even with a torch it takes a good smack to persuade that stainless.
K-member: Instead of grinding, we had the torch out already, so we did the same thing as the headers, heated it up and hit it with a hammer....well about an 8lb maul actually.
Car: No heat used, just climbed in the motor bay (with the motor out) and used the maul mentioned above. I only needed about 1/4" but I went at least 1 1/2" just to be sure.