Dampener is off, finally, but what is this?
04-14-2011, 02:55 PM
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Dampener is off, finally, but what is this? I'm assuming it's an underdrive pulley but how the heck do I get it off? I was lucky enough to figure out that my crank seal is not leaking before I pulled off the front cover so this is the only thing holding me back from changing the opti and water pump seals and getting it out on the road. Can I put a long narrow screw into the hole in the middle until it bottoms out and just pop it off with my puller the same way I got the dampener off? I'm not sure whats inside the hole (I doubt anything, and yes, thats what she said) but I'm just being cautious.
Also, I didnt have a bolt in the middle of the dampener..... not sure what to make of this. All of the threads I read said to put a 5/8ths socket over the bolt in the middle, but i didnt have one? Might be time to get one?
Also, I didnt have a bolt in the middle of the dampener..... not sure what to make of this. All of the threads I read said to put a 5/8ths socket over the bolt in the middle, but i didnt have one? Might be time to get one?
04-14-2011, 03:40 PM
#3
The bolt that goes in the crank is a fine thread, about a 7?16" IIRC, you're going to have to use one to push against to get the hub off. My hub came right off, just remember the three holes for the balancer are not equally spaced. Learned that the hard way
Going back together we'll need a long threaded rod and a nut. Hide all the hammers
Al
Going back together we'll need a long threaded rod and a nut. Hide all the hammers
Al
04-14-2011, 04:43 PM
#4
its deffinetly aftermarket....looks smaller then a stock one too, im just confused how the 3 spoked hub came off and thats still there. normally the hub presses onto the crank shaft and the harmonic balancer/crank pully bolts to it. yours like like backasswards.
IT confuses my why something bolts to that, yet its also a pully lol.
IT confuses my why something bolts to that, yet its also a pully lol.
04-14-2011, 05:15 PM
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04-14-2011, 05:31 PM
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04-14-2011, 05:36 PM
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Yeah, it is definitely a pain in my *** right now.... I dont really know what to pry it against other than the opti LOL! I dont want to chip up the powdercoating on my sway bar wither. I've been banging it around with a rubber mallet trying to get it off but no such luck, it's really on there 
I guess I'll just have to keep at it. From that diagram it looks like the hub has a small lip on the front, that must be what's keeping it on there.
I guess I'll just have to keep at it. From that diagram it looks like the hub has a small lip on the front, that must be what's keeping it on there. Trending Topics
04-14-2011, 08:34 PM
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One question before I give it the go ahead, am I removing the hub, or just the UD pulley with the harmonic balancer puller? I did rent a pulley puller from autozone to remove the dampener, can I use the same one? It's the claw style, I think they call it the chrysler style, or should I get the style that uses the 3 bolts that screw into the hub and pop it off that way?
I guess a second question would be do I need to remove the hub to replace the opti seals? The reason for removing all of this in the first place is because of a giant oil leak and I plan on replacing the water pump and water pump seals, opti O rings and seals, and oil pan gasket. I'm pretty sure the oil pan is the worst leak right at the front of the engine under the crank.
I guess a second question would be do I need to remove the hub to replace the opti seals? The reason for removing all of this in the first place is because of a giant oil leak and I plan on replacing the water pump and water pump seals, opti O rings and seals, and oil pan gasket. I'm pretty sure the oil pan is the worst leak right at the front of the engine under the crank.
04-14-2011, 09:13 PM
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1st thing 1st, Yes you should have the bolt in the center for sure. This is what holds the dampner to the hub. The only thing holding it all together is the bolt in the center that screws into the actual crank. I cant even believe you have drove the car like this honestly. With the bolt taken out normally, you just use a harmonic balancer puller. In the case with the underdrive pully you need to have either a socket or a bolt with the threads cut off that will slide down the middle so the balancer center rod has something to push on. The whole hub will come right off the crank itself. Very simple to do. IMO, I wouldn't say that the underdrive pulley is junk. It simpley reduces the parasitic drag from the components that run off the crank by decreasing the crank pulley size. This in turn causes the other pulleys to turn slower, reducing drag. Does it gain you anything I dont know for sure but I cant for see it hurting anything either. I bought one 8 years ago just to buy one. Again Honestly I cant for see it hurting performance or being ghetto by any means. What's $60 when you have $10K wrapped into parts anyhow, lol
04-14-2011, 09:17 PM
#15
Yeah the piggyback underdrive pulleys tend to really get stuck on the hub. Pull the whole thing then separate them. I usually have to use a large socket and a big hammer.
I will never use piggybacked again, such a pain in the *** if you have to get to the opti. Pulling and reinstalling the hub just adds aggravation to an already annoying job.
I will never use piggybacked again, such a pain in the *** if you have to get to the opti. Pulling and reinstalling the hub just adds aggravation to an already annoying job.
04-15-2011, 01:38 PM
#17
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It may make your accessories live a little longer, however eventually the battery will die due to insufficient charging. To combat that an O/D pulley should be used for the alt. There have been those who say it also puts stress on the front crank bearing, which I find to be crap since I ran one for 10+ years when it was a daily and no oil pressure problems. The engine was rebuilt at 100K miles and all crank bearings looked immaculate.
Basically IMO it's more trouble than it's worth. Especially when having to mess with an opti and having to settle by pulling the hub because the pulley is pretty much fused. If any gain is to be made with it (still uncertain) I'll pass.
Basically IMO it's more trouble than it's worth. Especially when having to mess with an opti and having to settle by pulling the hub because the pulley is pretty much fused. If any gain is to be made with it (still uncertain) I'll pass.
04-16-2011, 11:07 AM
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I dont think you need to take off the hub to get to the opti. This is the guide I'm using and am replacing the same seals and O rings that this guy did. http://www.impalasuperstore.com/nais...TOPIC_ID=30984
I was pretty impressed with this write up, definitely gave me some courage.
I was pretty impressed with this write up, definitely gave me some courage.
04-16-2011, 11:13 AM
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Normally you do not have to pull the hub to get the opti off, however with an OD pulley that is just shy of being welded onto the hub and w/out risk of damaging the aluminum U/D pulley, it's better to take the hub/pulley off as one.
04-16-2011, 01:09 PM
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Hub is stuck, UD pulley is stuck. I cut the head off a bolt and put it in the hole and tried a gear puller. This is NOT the way to do it. I fucked up the UD pulley so it's trash. Everything is stuck and there is a half a bolt stuck in the threads in the crank. I hate my life, did I just trash the engine?