LT1FirebirdSLP

iTrader: (2)

I have a 1994 Firebird T/A GT. T-56, LT1 355ci with all forged internals. 10.5:1 CR.

The car has been sitting in my garage for about 5 years now (joined the Army and finished college, those kinda had to take my life over for awhile).

Everything is generally ready to go back together and I just have a few questions.

1) I am having great difficulty in locating the part number for the wiring harness for my T/A. Some of the connectors got damaged from the harness not being appropiately tucked away when I finished removing the motor. I need an OEM harness because I need to keep it all emissions compliant.

2) I wanted a Centerforce clutch for my car. I had one I put in it but the disc got soaked with oil when the RMS went. I called Centerforce and asked them for a replacement disc, and was told they don't make them anymore. Great. McLeod wants almost $1600 for my specific application. Were expecting about 400hp @ the crank. I've looked at Spec, Ram, McLeod and I really just don't know which one to go with. I'd rather not dump $1600 into the clutch alone. I need money for other bits and pieces. And across the forum, there are a lot of mixed opinions.

3) I bought a brand new opti for the car. It was sitting in a box on the shelf and I happened to come into my garage one day to find the box on the ground with the opti on the concrete floor. Its about a 5 foot drop from where it was. I really don't want to install this thing if its busted. I checked out shoebox's website and found the procedure to test it; kind of obscure. Are there any ironclad ways to test it?

4) I am looking to buy the upgraded Aeromotive fuel system for my car. Has anyone bought this system and installed it? Any notes to install? Difficult? Should I upgrade to stock injectors for my new motor? What flow rate should I upgrade to?

Thanks a lot in advance. I have been out of the f-body loop for a couple of years and am just trying to refresh my mind on a few things so all your help is greatly appreciated.

shbox

Find a salvage yard harness. Even if a new GM harness is still available (doubtful), you wouldn't want to pay what they would want for it. They were way pricey 10 years ago. You could also get some new connector shells and repin any damaged ones.


The opti test procedure on my site is basically from the factory manual. You can blame GM for any obscurity. If the cap is not cracked or broken and you hear no internal rattles, it's likely ok. You can connect the opti to another working LT1 car, turn the key ON and give the opti a spin. You should hear injectors clicking and there should be fire from the coil.

69gto96z

iTrader: (13)

I have not used the aeromotive kit, nor do i know anybody that has. The most common kit that is used is the racetronix kit with the Walbro 255 pump.

riceburnerZ28

iTrader: (20)

For the fuel system all you'll need is a walbro 255 fuel pump and possibly 30# injectors. For the clutch you certainly don't need to spend $1600 to handle 400hp...Ram, Mcleod have clutch kits for less than $700 that can support your power level and give a little room to grow.

fastcars95

iTrader: (9)

You can find a good clutch kit for around $400-$500 from summit or you can just buy a clutch disk for $150-$200. It does not have to be a centerforce disk. I'm running a centerforce pp with a non centerforce 4 puck disk.

The stock regulator should be good as long as you dont boost your motor. Maybe look into a set of 30lb red top injectors and mail order tune. If you need a pump I'd just get a ($125) walboro 255lph intake pump.

I just picked up an lt1 m6 engine harness on here for $150 shipped. Put a wanted ad up in the parts wanted section. They usaully go from $75-$200.

fastcars95

iTrader: (9)

Your a faster typer then I am.

LVZ2881

iTrader: (4)

check out Competition clutch. (do a google search for the website). They make some good clutches for a very reasonable price.

nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

I have a parts store clutch made by Perfection. I love it.

LT1FirebirdSLP

iTrader: (2)

So I ended up ordering a nice array of parts today.

-Competition Clutch 2250 Stage 3 for $300
-Prothane Motor and Tranny Mount for $50
-Pacesetter Mid-Length Ceramic Armor Coated Headers. 1 5/8" primaries w/ 3" collector and Y-pipe for $480

My only concern now is that when I was header shopping, I noticed that on the Holly/Hooker website, if you use their headers that are ceramic coated to break in a new motor, it voids the warranty. Why? I don't know. Is it bad to do that? I talked to another one of my f-body buddies, and he told me their is no such thing and that it was probably just a ploy to get customers to buy a higher end header.

LT1FirebirdSLP

iTrader: (2)

I am looking at the Racetronix Kit as we speak right now. It gives me an option to add a Battery Ground Upgrade and Pump Booster Connector Set. What is the deal with these? Do I need them?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Not a good idea IMO. That's like replacing rotors without putting on new brake pads or new piston rings without a hone. Depending on the condition of the PP and flywheel friction surfaces the clutch may not seat properly, full contact may not be made and could be a short while before the clutch starts to slip. Whenever replacing the clutch disc it's always a good idea to have the flywheel replaced/machined and replace the pressure plate.

BALLSS

OP

you could have just ordered a new McLeod disc for the LT1 from Summit for under $200 #261571 and had your FW & PP resurfaced since you say a RMS leak caused your disc to saturate with oil. The Competition one should work well.

coated headers...manufactures get pissy about this. Basiclally they assume new motors are not tuned right initially and run very lean/hot which will degrade their coating causeing it to flake off. IMHO a temp gun should be used on any initial start up on new motor to monitor cyl. If one is way colder or hotter than shut down and find wtf the problem is. Coated headers are shiney out of the box but do dull after a few heat cycles, normal.

dropped the opti...if there is no visible sign of damage to the case it most likely is fine, especially if still in the box. I suggest you take the cap off and remove the rotor to add loctite to the rotor screws anyway. While doing this you can look inside to see if there is any physical damage. If spline moves freely when you spin by hand that is a good sign all is well.

red top Ford SVO 30 lb injectors are favored and most tuners know how to tune for them. A 255 Walbro and raceTronix fuel pump wiring kit are often used in combo. I believe RaceTronix sells it as a package also. Stock FPR will be fine.

LT1FirebirdSLP

iTrader: (2)

why would i have to add loctite to the rotor screws? just curious as I haven't tried this yet.

LT1FirebirdSLP

iTrader: (2)

I am looking at the diagram I found at
http://shbox.com/1/heater_hoses_93-94.jpg
and I am trying to figure out what #9 is.

I believe its the Throttle Body Coolant Inlet hose. This is not necessary if you do the TBC Bypass Freemod, right?