sort of a beging to a buidl thread
05-08-2011, 01:39 PM
#1
sort of a beging to a buidl thread well about a year ago i pegged the temp gauge on the car and then broke the reverse lockout syliniod which lead to this finally.
about a week ago i pulled the dip stick and saw that the oil level on it was double what it is supposed to be with water in it. I though well maybe a blown head gasket so i decide to tear the heads off and check.
i pulled the heads off and found that i have a little porting on the intake and heads along with double valve springs, comp mangum pushrods, and comp 1.52 roller tip rockers. after puttign the heads and intake up i noticed the pistons had some numbers on them and cleaned them to find out my motor was .030 over. i am like yes win!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the gaskets were good and i had no water in the cylinders. i havent figured out yet what has caused the water to end up in the pan. any enlightenment on this will help. i also pulled the pistons out and the cylinders do not have holes in them.
among pulling the pistons and rods i decide to inspect rod bearings and found out that number 6 rod looked like this
thank god i pulled the motor apart
now to pictures.
water line in oil pain up to milk
motor out of car
motor in car (pulled it from the top in 5 mins without heads and intake)
heads
pistons
now some pics misc
found me some big blocks a stock bore and stock deck height 1968 396 and a 454 that is arp studded and freshly bored got them both for 50 along with some junk casting heads
and the trans i have (not pictured is a 700r4) from left to right th200. th350, m6
about a week ago i pulled the dip stick and saw that the oil level on it was double what it is supposed to be with water in it. I though well maybe a blown head gasket so i decide to tear the heads off and check.
i pulled the heads off and found that i have a little porting on the intake and heads along with double valve springs, comp mangum pushrods, and comp 1.52 roller tip rockers. after puttign the heads and intake up i noticed the pistons had some numbers on them and cleaned them to find out my motor was .030 over. i am like yes win!!!!!!!!!!!!!
the gaskets were good and i had no water in the cylinders. i havent figured out yet what has caused the water to end up in the pan. any enlightenment on this will help. i also pulled the pistons out and the cylinders do not have holes in them.
among pulling the pistons and rods i decide to inspect rod bearings and found out that number 6 rod looked like this
thank god i pulled the motor apart
now to pictures.
water line in oil pain up to milk
motor out of car
motor in car (pulled it from the top in 5 mins without heads and intake)
heads
pistons
now some pics misc
found me some big blocks a stock bore and stock deck height 1968 396 and a 454 that is arp studded and freshly bored got them both for 50 along with some junk casting heads
and the trans i have (not pictured is a 700r4) from left to right th200. th350, m6
Last edited by Big bird55; 05-09-2011 at 03:27 PM.
05-08-2011, 02:23 PM
#3
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Get the heads and block hot tanked and checked for cracks at a good machine shop. If good, have them mic the bores for cylinder taper and ridge wear then pray the block can be cleaned up with a simple hone. If not .040 over and new pistons may be an option. Good luck brother
05-08-2011, 07:41 PM
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Since the motor is torn down this far, it could be a great time to buy a stroker crank if the stock one has deep gouges and can't be cleaned up from the #6 bearings giving way. I would make damn sure the water jackets are not cracked in the block and the head are not warped or cracked also.
I once had a good buddy put a shitload of cash in a 350 that wouldn't hold oil pressure because there was a crack in the webbing for the cam bearings.
I once had a good buddy put a shitload of cash in a 350 that wouldn't hold oil pressure because there was a crack in the webbing for the cam bearings.
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05-09-2011, 03:25 PM
#8
i am having the heads and block checked.
surprisingly no gouges in the crank a little wear. although the rods and mains bearings were stamped 040. i don't no if i can go a little more on the crank if i have to. if i can just polish the crank a little and use it i plan to put back together a little motor with a cam. if the crank is gone then i will have to wait until li can save money (which will be after 4 years college is about to start) to buy a good rotating assembly.
but if everything checks out good i will re ring it and re bearing it and get some arp rod bolts and put it back together with my cc306
surprisingly no gouges in the crank a little wear. although the rods and mains bearings were stamped 040. i don't no if i can go a little more on the crank if i have to. if i can just polish the crank a little and use it i plan to put back together a little motor with a cam. if the crank is gone then i will have to wait until li can save money (which will be after 4 years college is about to start) to buy a good rotating assembly.
but if everything checks out good i will re ring it and re bearing it and get some arp rod bolts and put it back together with my cc306
