Spiers

iTrader: (7)

So I just relocated my batt to the trunk. It is a brand new battery, and the starter is just about a year old. There is no cut off switch, I just have 1/0 gauge cable going from the positive to the starter, 4ga going from starter to distribution block. 4ga going from battery positive to the alt. 1/0 gauge from negative to the rear seat belt stud. And a 4ga ground from the drivers side motor mount bolt(to the block) to the drivers side frame rail where an abs bracket bolt went.

Usually when I try to start it it just clicks and the lights flicker. And I can see the crank turning a little. But it does this randomly, sometimes will start fine, other times click. Or sometimes will click for a sec then start. Just whatever it feels like doing. And if I plug my charger in and put it on the start setting and let it sit for a min, it will usually start no problem.

What u guys think my problem is??

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

IDK but its the reason my battery is in the stock location still. I read threads about that happening all the time and dont feel like dealing with it. Usually it ends up being a bad ground.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I'll betcha the connections at the bolts for the 1/0 aren't as good as they need to be. Did you grind the paint off until you saw clean shiny naked metal? I'd also upgrade that 4 gauge from the motor mount to 1/0/.

Most of these jobs work well, lots of folks put their battery in the back. Check those grounds.

riceburnerZ28

iTrader: (20)

I pretty much did what the op did with the exception of two grounds. The k-member to block I used a braided ground strap and at the back I used a 4ga ground wire from the battery to the frame using one of the exhaust mount bolts.

joelster

You should never put the battery in back of a 4th gen unless your car is a serious drag and you are flirting with running 9.99's, or you road race your car and need to balance the car out. Your car will not pass tech at any good dragstrip now, if that matters to you. You say the battery is brand new, but what is the rating on the battery? If it is a cheapo $39.99 battery with low capacity and low CCA, running a 16 foot cable will stress it. Usually when you see batteries in the back of a car, you see 1 or 2 big Optima's, and there is a reason for that.

Car looks sweet btw!

chevymec

iTrader: (19)

Check your grounds good.

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

When i ran mine i didnt run a ground cable back to the block (no one has done that) the car ran fine with a heavy #1 cable going straight from the battery to the distribution block in the engine bay. Then from there i ran #4 wire to the alternator and the starter.

I then ran a #2 ground cable from the batter straight to the engine block. The car ran noticeably better. and now its running like an animal!

Moral of the story is... you can NEVER have TOO MANY Grounds!

88silvergt

iTrader: (8)

Mine did the exact same thing when I installed my battery in the trunk of my 68 camaro. After cleaning all connections and reinstalled it started like a champ from then on.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

A lot of people here move their battery to the rear. It just cleans up the engine bay a bunch. My "battery re-location weekend" is making it's way to the top of my to-do list. My Powervamp battery is going in the left quarter.

SS MPSTR

iTrader: (1)

I just do not agree with this at all. Using correct components, vent tube, etc., and the car will pass tech, and getting the weight off the nose is a plus in any car.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

I'd rather take weight out of the car period, then spend money adding weight to it trying to redistribute it to the rear of the car... Most start having wheelstand problems after they dip into the 9s anyways, and some in the 10s.

joelster

You need a vented box, an on/off switch, and cables connected to shut off the battery and the alternator to make it legal. The op doesn't have the correct box or a switch, which is why I said his is illegal. I had my battery in back before and it added another 20-25lbs to my car in addition to the stock-sized 35lb battery. Now I run an oddysey 14lb battery up front. The net weight loss is around 45lbs give or take. By running a small battery up front you shed 20-21lbs off of the nose. By relocating your current battery you take 35lbs off of the nose and add 60 to the rear.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

I don't think the OP is running a track car that needs to pass tech inspection. There's nothing wrong with moving the battery to the rear. Many cars today come with batteries located somewhere else on the car-including the Camaro.

SS MPSTR

iTrader: (1)

I get what you're saying, but I guess I'd like to weigh the cable, box and shut-off to see if the weights are what you say (I have the cable, box, switch, and I'd be surprised if it was near 18#, much less 20-25#)...another reason I see benefit is the space up front it makes available.

Like you said, changing just the battery should yield a 21# (14# Oddessey in lieu of 35# stocker) gain, but with the weight still over the nose. I'd rather lose the weight from the front and put it over the rear (even at the expense of 18-20#, or whatever it truly is!), despite what some say will cause it to ride the bumper...the super stock guys run ballast in the same location to get their cars to correct weight - they don't add it to the nose.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

How long do those small batteries last though? Not that that's a concern for a drag car, but...

strokerblackhawk

iTrader: (4)

i relocated the battery and have had no problems although i got the wiring kit precut and sodered sounds very similar to some of yalls setups i have mostly 1 gauge, but i do have a big yellow top optima with a battery tender hooked to it. i noticed if i didnt drive the car for a couple weeks it would spin the starter just fast enough to turn over or it would click and not turn over, after i put the battery tender on it turns over on the first lick every time just gotta remember to unplug it before you drive off.

joelster

I'm on year number 3 or 4, and i've drained this thing 100% dead at least 15 times. I had a small draw that took me a while to find, plus it goes dead over winter when it sits for 4 months. Hit it with a trickle charger for a few hours and it's good to go.

Spiers

iTrader: (7)

I don't really care if it passes tech. Its more of a street car. My local tracks don't really check anyway. I did it to clean up the engine bay and to take the weight off of the nose. I maybe added 10 lbs of wiring. If I run into problems with tech I will just add the necessary equip. no big deal. But I will add a ground or two and see what that does...

Spiers

iTrader: (7)

And thanks

Spiers

iTrader: (7)