94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Ok so right now I'm really pissed. The deal is that I have adjusted them twice now. I've adjusted them before going by shbox's website and they where perfectly fine. I'm having bad results this time around. Ok so I get TDC #1 and adjust Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7 Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8. I spin the purshrod until its seated and or has drag on it then I normally just adjust 3/4 turn. I also tried this giving it a full turn. When I turn the crank 1 revolution: arrow going from 12 O'clock to 12 O'clock going to TDC #6 all the ones I just did on TDC #1 are so damn loose that I can pick the rocker up turn it and pull the pushrod out..... The thing is I started the car earlier today 3 times for about 30 seconds hoping that it would tighten things up thinking that the lifters blead off but I'm at a stand still, What the hell could be the problem. It sounded like the intake was poping or backing firing when runing as well. I'm f***ing lost right now and need this **** fixed ASAP, leaving for florida next friday and need to get this bitch on the trailer. Only things that have changed where the AI H/C/I and pushrods from them! Not sure what the hell is going on! Please help!!!!!

1BadAsZ

just a suggestion but did you check to make sure you have the right pushrod length?

shbox

Are you sure you are not mixing up 1 and 6 TDC?

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Umm well, Advandced induction sent me the pushrods to go with the set. They said they would be within .050 of dead on. I didn't have time to measure so I went with them because phil said it would be the safest route at this time....

As for TDC, I had the heads off the first time and and had #1 at TDC, installed heads, lifters, pr, rocker arms and then adjusted them. I then turned the crank one revolution: arrow from 12 O'clock to 12 O'clock. then proceded to TDC # 6.... I fired the car thinking it would prime the lifters if that was the issue and nothing. Sound like poping or back fire in the intake once in a while. I then proceded to re attempt to adjust. I took out #1 spark plug with arrow lined back up at 12 O'clock and I can feel the piston at the top with a little allen stock, So I know i'm there. I'm lost. Any more thoughts would be great. My only other option is to attempt the reverse order, when at TDC # 6 adjust for one and then when at TDC on 1 adjust for 6. At this point i'm cluless.
I cant tell by looking at the rockers if or which rockers are open or closed because they look even across the way! More advice please. Someone must have an idea????

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

explain to me what you dont have time to measure correctly for a vital engine part means?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Your TDC reference is off. That's all there is to it.
If the heads are on the car now then take #1 plug out, hand crank engine to compression stroke on #1, stick a McDonald's straw into plug hole, rotate crank until you feel the most resistance on the straw. That will give you the best TDC reference with heads on.
When done with first round of adjustments then use arrow as your one revolution reference.
Or, forget all that and do EOIC with a remote starter switch.

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Ok maybe that came out wrong. I am behind schedule on the build. It ended up taking xtra time getting my AI stuff back and then the issue I had with the k-member. I have to have the car on the trailer with working brakes (waiting for parts which will be here today) allignment done and loaded up to head out for a dialed in tune and then head to florida all on the 27th. Time crunch for sure. I live in a small *** place so litereally I cannot find any parts with out having to order them in. I would have to order the PR checker tool which will take 3 days and then figure out the length, then place the order for PR and then wait for them to show up. Not enough time. Thats why I had Advanced Induction send my PR that would be safe and efficient to run with the setup they just built me. It's not that I dont want to make sure everything is pefect I just literally dont have time. I still have to out process this base and my house and they are moving all my tools and belongings on the 24th so I have no access to a working environment after the 24th. I just need it running. Not sure if this sums it up for you. Believe me I want it right I have well over $12K in parts on this car. The PR should be the correct length since it was a package deal! I'm thinking that it has to be something with the comp stroke, Maybe I have it off 180 when I installed the Balancer, I mean the piston would still be up top correct since you have the compression and exhaust stroke. I have a guy coming to look at it in 15 minutes so more to come I guess.

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

well im sure they have it close on the pr. and yes it sums it up for me. id adjust them running. or EOIC method

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

If his motor is making as much noise as he states, it wouldn't be a good idea to start the car again until the valves were close to a correct adjustment.

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

already forgot about that.

BALLSS

^^^

with the "backfire, etc" sounds like you are 180 off and it would run like ***.

when you are where you think #1 is at TDC...are both RR/PR the same level/height?

what length PR did AI send...7.150?? if not dead nuts that length should be fine to at least run the motor

and when you do lash the RR as the "do 1/2 then rotate 180" method the RR you lash will losen up some because lifters will compress...this is normal...but never to the point you can slide off the RR and remove PR

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Got it all figure out and adjusted!!!!!!! Ok so pretty much what happened was I, what I thought was TDC was actually off 180. I had the piston up on the compression stroke and the the exhaust stroke. We just adjusted every cylinder individually and got it spot on! Damn I cant believe this happened. So for furture reference what is a good way to tell which stroke your on with the heads off. Because apparently I didnt know????? Guess I got lucky last time, lol!

shbox

You look at the lifter position like it says in the very beginning of the adjustment procedure on my website. It seems you didn't know that #1 piston is going to be at the top whether on intake or exhaust stroke. The cam/lobe position is what dictates what cylinder is actually firing.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

For people who do a cam, how do you know if your on #1 or #6? or does it not matter when you install a cam? I thought 1 and 6 were just "the same" lol.

shbox

Only the piston position is the same. The crank doesn't know anything until you get the cam in. The cam dictates the cylinder firing (did I say that already? ) You line up the dots on the cam and crank gear during install.

http://shbox.com/1/cam_timing_ani.gif

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Yeah i did this. I lined up the dots on the timing chain and the rod that comes out the cam was at 3 O'clock just like normal. Not sure what the deal was unless the lifters bled off or what not. Still they should have been adjusted right i would think the first time. After that I redid them after cranking and at this point I didn't realise that I was on the intake stroke instead of the exhaust stoke like I should have been. One more question then. So how does this affect my arrow on my crank now??? How can I go by this to make sure I'm on the TDC. I was confused by this part. I know yesterday we did them all individually and I could visually see the exhaust just start to open so I know then at this point I can adjust the intake and vise versa for the exhaust. ****** sounds so much better more or less cause I'm running on all 8 cylinders now, lol