Cam/Ported Heads & Intake/LTs price
05-25-2011, 08:30 PM
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Cam/Ported Heads & Intake/LTs price I'm having a local shop work on a price for a CC306 and all supporting valvetrain work, LTs, racetronix fuel pump, and porting and polishing the stock heads and intake and of course a tune.
Whats a good price and what shouldn't I pay? Also if you guys don't mind, what have you paid for similar parts and labor? This is something I could do myself with some time and patience. I need the learning experience, but my new job wont give me much time.
Also, I was told I would be better off running LT4 intake and heads. I know the stock intake in ported form is good for large amounts of power. Stock heads I know can flow decent with some good work. Am I just trying to get sold more parts and labor?
The car will be DD some but only till I purchase another vehicle.
Whats a good price and what shouldn't I pay? Also if you guys don't mind, what have you paid for similar parts and labor? This is something I could do myself with some time and patience. I need the learning experience, but my new job wont give me much time.
Also, I was told I would be better off running LT4 intake and heads. I know the stock intake in ported form is good for large amounts of power. Stock heads I know can flow decent with some good work. Am I just trying to get sold more parts and labor?
The car will be DD some but only till I purchase another vehicle.
05-25-2011, 09:08 PM
#2
id say your easily looking at 4-5k$. I just did cam and supporting mods plus bolt ons and im in the 1700-2300$ range i think, without ported heads. You can save money here and there but you risk some things in doing so such as quality and reliability.
I had a shop do a similar build to an old L98 trans am, i wont mention them but it was like 5500$ and then it had issues every other week, thats when i said im never EVER paying someone to mess my car up again. Ive done my own work ever since that fiasco.
If they can do it for under 3000$ id say its a GOOD deal. but it could easily range from 4-6k i bet.
I had a shop do a similar build to an old L98 trans am, i wont mention them but it was like 5500$ and then it had issues every other week, thats when i said im never EVER paying someone to mess my car up again. Ive done my own work ever since that fiasco.
If they can do it for under 3000$ id say its a GOOD deal. but it could easily range from 4-6k i bet.
05-25-2011, 09:17 PM
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I was hoping for $2500, Ive known the guy for quite some time and made friends with him, plus being in the Military it helps a lot. If its more than what I can dish out then Ill just buy the parts and do it my self and get the experience.
05-25-2011, 09:56 PM
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I was afraid of that. I've looked up the prices on hardware and they come close to that price. I'll see what numbers he can throw at me and go from there. I may end up doing it my self, my motor needs to be freshened up as well. So I believe Ill start from there and just work on it as I can.
05-25-2011, 10:55 PM
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As far as the supporting bolt ons go, that includes? LTs, ORY, already has a cat back and its a ram air car so thats already taken care of, and I really cant think of much else thats considered bolt on for the LT1s.
What about porting the throttle body my self? I figured its something small that I could do my self and gain a few hp. Are there any threads or vids showing how to?
What about porting the throttle body my self? I figured its something small that I could do my self and gain a few hp. Are there any threads or vids showing how to?
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05-25-2011, 11:17 PM
#8
You can't port the throttle body without installing bigger blades ...
Converter / Clutch, gears, slicks, suspension, a rear when the 10 bolt blows, bigger TB, TUNE, injectors fuel pump.
All that is going to be needed to pit the power to the ground effectively.
EWP, cutout, weight reduction etc is all bolt ons that can be done if you want every last 1/10th
Not to mention the cost of a new timing chain, oil pressure saver, pushrods, rockers, and all the gaskets, seals and incidentals you SHOULD budget for when doing a H/C swap.
Converter / Clutch, gears, slicks, suspension, a rear when the 10 bolt blows, bigger TB, TUNE, injectors fuel pump.
All that is going to be needed to pit the power to the ground effectively.
EWP, cutout, weight reduction etc is all bolt ons that can be done if you want every last 1/10th
Not to mention the cost of a new timing chain, oil pressure saver, pushrods, rockers, and all the gaskets, seals and incidentals you SHOULD budget for when doing a H/C swap.
Last edited by gregrob; 05-25-2011 at 11:23 PM.
05-25-2011, 11:34 PM
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Clutch will be a must, my clutch just went out and was replaced with a oe replacement one from advance (limited funds at the time). A TQ arm and relocation bracket, panhand bar and replacing all the rear bushings is already in the plans.
I figured I would go as long as I can and take it easy on the 10 bolt till I can get another DD. Then break it and swap a 9" in.
I do believe I will work on the suspension and all the supporting mods before tearing the motor apart. Ive got a small leak on the front and rear seals (no loss in oil pressure and oil isn't low) so Im just going to rebuild the motor. Not wanting a full bullet proof bottom end I'll probably just go with forged pistons when I buy a rebuild kit, and bore it .030 over.
I figured I would go as long as I can and take it easy on the 10 bolt till I can get another DD. Then break it and swap a 9" in.
I do believe I will work on the suspension and all the supporting mods before tearing the motor apart. Ive got a small leak on the front and rear seals (no loss in oil pressure and oil isn't low) so Im just going to rebuild the motor. Not wanting a full bullet proof bottom end I'll probably just go with forged pistons when I buy a rebuild kit, and bore it .030 over.
05-26-2011, 12:09 AM
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05-26-2011, 05:24 AM
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idk if its just me but either keep running the stock block or if u "refresh" it, dont just go half *** with just forged pistons, i say go big or dont go at all, you will be happier in the long run. just like me, i am running the stock bottom end, thru in a GM847, some injectors, hardened rods, got her tuned. runs like a raped ape for as high rpm as you can push it. and im gonna run the stock bottom end till the got damn thing dont run any more..... then "refresh it" to all forged everything, bored, etc
05-26-2011, 08:05 AM
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these guys got you pointed in the right direction. I suggest that if it was that shop telling you to get LT4 parts to find a dif shop cause they don't know their *** from their elbow
05-26-2011, 10:33 AM
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As far as the internals that will be a must eventually. I guess it all depends on funds when I tear down.
As far as the shop he knows his stuff. He works mainly oh higher end Corvettes (Z06 and the ZR1). He's also worked on a few ferraris as well so I trust him I just think I'm just trying to be sold extra parts.
As far as the shop he knows his stuff. He works mainly oh higher end Corvettes (Z06 and the ZR1). He's also worked on a few ferraris as well so I trust him I just think I'm just trying to be sold extra parts.
05-26-2011, 10:45 AM
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As far as the internals that will be a must eventually. I guess it all depends on funds when I tear down.
As far as the shop he knows his stuff. He works mainly oh higher end Corvettes (Z06 and the ZR1). He's also worked on a few ferraris as well so I trust him I just think I'm just trying to be sold extra parts.
As far as the shop he knows his stuff. He works mainly oh higher end Corvettes (Z06 and the ZR1). He's also worked on a few ferraris as well so I trust him I just think I'm just trying to be sold extra parts.
05-26-2011, 02:29 PM
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well he also has a 396 stroker LT1 T/A in his garage right now that he has built and will soon be receiving a procharger. Hes built numerous LT cars but I dont know, Im thinking about just doing it all my self.