LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

Boostedlt1 did it for $1900.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Again, the psi number means nothing.

I feel the reason the brute speed mill is still together is 1 because it is a very low mile car that probably doesnt get abused every day, and 2 and more importantly the fact that it is super charged and the boost comes on in a very linear manner proportionate to engine RPM.

You see as the RPMS increase, you can shove more boost into the engine without creating a spike in cylinder pressure.

Think of it this way, TQ is directly indicative of cylinder pressure. You boost 7 PSI at 3000 rpms and you're going to make way more tq than waiting til 6000 RPMs to achieve 7 psi.

Same goes with 10.

If I were going to try and boost a stock LT1 engine, it would definitely be super charged.

hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

I agree, thats why i said STS. The turbo and piping naturally has to be smaller to keep velocity up so the boost wont come on in a huge spike and be somewhat linear. I would also supercharge it it but GL for 1900, would be tight

boostedlt1

iTrader: (2)

correct.

correct.


i daily drove my car for two years at 7 psi. like lswho stated, motor didn't go til the turbo did and took it with it (garrett turbo, wasn't because it was some cheap turbo)

now i'm building a new motor, forged, 9:1, custom cam. should be fun.

as long as you have a good tune you CAN make it work. you're running on borrowed time however. i referred to my car as "the ticking time bomb" after the first year or so. i even spiked it at 15psi once and the motor didn't flinch.

as in all the turbo threads... the people that aren't actually running a turbo will tell you not to do it because it will last a week. or the people that tired to do it on a stock fuel system and/or stock tune... those people dont deserve a turbo car anyways.

i spents hours and hours researching and put the time in to my set-up so that i could make it work. i knew what i was up against, and i also knew i was gonna have to build the motor some day. i had an absolute blast with the stock motor, i put that motor through hell and it never let me down. now i'm to that day that i'm building a new motor, and i absolutely cant wait...


and btw.. stock motor put down 397/405 to the wheels with multiple cylinders under 100psi compression. (stock piston rings dont like boost)

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

I guarantee that motor was over 400whp before that turbo started to go. We both felt a nice gain in the last few pulls.

nighthawk15

You can do it but maybe consider dropping to like 5 PSI or so and more than anything make sure your tune is dead nuts. Honestly though.....you can make more power safer and cheaper n/a. IMO boost is best saved for when your goals are not quite obtainable n/a.

boosted LT1

iTrader: (3)

First psi is helpful for an indication of power especially on a stockish build.

People will give an estimate on hp for psi to ~12 (LT1 with Vortech 6 psi 400 RWHP). BUT at 7 psi if you change cams and heads the flow and hp change (hp up psi down also turbo size impacts because smaller turbo tends to heat air more). So psi has a place just not THE number

DOLLARS is the number and the reality is

MPT76 ~750
Injectors ~450
Cooler 125

Wastegate
BOV
Cold tubing
Hot side

There is 1325 and you have barely started. Power is expensive if you don't have the ability to fund boost, spray it. IF you can fabricate and weld $1900 is possible for a intro system

$15,000 was mentioned and scoffed at but if you do a 4l80E, Ford 9, tub, 411 conversion and build a stout engine you could easily spend that. That would be a dd that would hold up so the range is higher than you will likely expect. $$$ will be a lot higher if you don’t thoroughly think it through and especially if you depend on others to do the work

Read the series at Garret for a start. They show some formulas for flow…I recommend a T76 and make sure you have at least a 96 exhaust

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech101.html

Good luck

itSSlowZ28

iTrader: (5)

quick scenario for the op. suppose he does put a turbo on the car and blows the engine like "planned" and it then takes out the turbo. this whole idea will have backfired pretty nicely correct?

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

If boost couldn't be done...then companies have never made kits for the lt1 ...

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Lol...

05HD

Is a stock LT1 boost friendly? No.

Can a stock LT1 be boosted and live? Yes. I'd even wager it could make a ton more than 400 hp with the right turbo system, fuel system, tune and octane. Those are a lot more than $1900 worth of qualifiers however...

sofixy89

iTrader: (3)

i run 12psi on 140K mile lt1 with race fuel. yeah my turbo is sts .81 Turbine .60 Compressor on my custom front mount set up with water to air intercooler. do i think its gonna last forever? no! but it has made 10 passes so far.. )))

And back to ur question. turbo like mine will be perfect for your set up. it spools quick and can be have for cheap from ppl upgrading there sts kits. thats where i got mine from member on here. good luck man everybody told me my car is gonna blow right away and i saw thous ppl in my rear view mirror.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Spooling quick is just going to kill the engine that much faster...

IronOutlaw

iTrader: (4)

Stupid Question,


Do they not make some sort of inline oil filter you can use in case your turbo takes a **** to protect your engine or vice versa.

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

If this is true then since companies make 500 shot two stage nitrous kits, they are fine for a stock lt1 too!!

Hell yes!! Look out Tony sheppard!

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

Gasket out some compression.

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

Or larger cc heads.

Z28Roxy

iTrader: (4)

Or preferably both. It might help a lot. I wanted to experiment with this before I blew my head gasket (water pump failure).

86zboss

iTrader: (1)

I ran a Precision T68 turbo (PT6776H T4 .75 compressor .96 AR exhaust) at 7-8lbs with a air/water setup-NO METH-on a COMPLETELY stock LT1 engine with 75k miles until it blew at 94k miles and cylinder 5 ended up with a bent rod. No mods to engine except 30lb injectors, a good fuel pump and a decent tune.

It CAN be done BUT those factory hypereutectic pistons and powder coated rods can NOT handle any bit of detonation. If you have the money to invest, you might as well build it right, do it once. If you don't have the money to spend, you should wait until you do.

You dont want to ruin a sweet bottom end because you went cheap on the top end or visa versa, they are both just as important. If you want to run forced induction and not worry about anything breaking at any given time, the stock LT1 is not the application for you!

There are thousands of people on this forum and so far Boostedlt1, myself and prob a hand full of people have had "temporary Luck" with stock motors on low boost AND only to have them pulled out and rebuilt anyways! its inevitable. I would listen to the majority on here as in boost and stock LT1 do not mix. Save your money and do it right.

Now back to the turbo topic, I love my turbo,highly recommended, it spools very fast with no lag, 3300rpm its full boost. I have over 20k miles on it and its still as good as new. The PT6776H gets my vote!

Hopefully this helped a little, just my 2cents. Good luck on your build!

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Your sig is proof of what I've been saying... It made 346 RWHP and blew up.

You could have made 400 with a head / cam setup, sprayed a 100 shot, made 500hp and ran 10s....