New engine, can't step on the gas pedal more than 1/4 without it almost dieing.
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New engine, can't step on the gas pedal more than 1/4 without it almost dieing.
This is a new engine that starts up and idles fine and I can rev it all I want in park. But when I actually go drive it on the street I can't press the gas pedal down more than a 1/4th of the way without the car almost dieing. It has never completely died but at the same time I let off the pedal as soon as it tries to die.
I have hooked a fuel pressure gauge to see if it drops when I press on the pedal and it doesn't. So I don't know if I'm losing spark for some reason when I'm driving compared to just sitting in park. Or could a couple of my fuel injectors be acting up? Any ideas? Thanks.
I have hooked a fuel pressure gauge to see if it drops when I press on the pedal and it doesn't. So I don't know if I'm losing spark for some reason when I'm driving compared to just sitting in park. Or could a couple of my fuel injectors be acting up? Any ideas? Thanks.
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Ok I checked vacuum and it is bouncing between 9-11. I have a pretty big cam and am only running an alternator with no other accessories. Do those numbers mean I have a vacuum leak? If so could this cause my car to almost die everytime I try to accelerate?
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If your fuel pressure is rock solid, if your valvetrain is adjusted properly, if your plug wires are routed correctly, if you know beyond a shadow of a doubt your timing chain was lined up correctly upon install and if you know your rotor screws in your opti are tight then I would say the next thing to explore is the tune.
The easy part is this problem is either fuel or timing. The challenging part is finding out which aspect of either is causing the problem.
The easy part is this problem is either fuel or timing. The challenging part is finding out which aspect of either is causing the problem.
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If your fuel pressure is rock solid, if your valvetrain is adjusted properly, if your plug wires are routed correctly, if you know beyond a shadow of a doubt your timing chain was lined up correctly upon install and if you know your rotor screws in your opti are tight then I would say the next thing to explore is the tune.
The easy part is this problem is either fuel or timing. The challenging part is finding out which aspect of either is causing the problem.
The easy part is this problem is either fuel or timing. The challenging part is finding out which aspect of either is causing the problem.
Here are the codes. I meant to tell the tuner to delete these out.
P0335 & P0336. The crankshaft position sensor is no longer in use since I took the reluctor ring out. I decided to use a double timing chain.
P0443. I got rid of my EVAP. Was there something else I may have missed doing when removing this?
P1810 I went from a six speed to a turbo 350 Transmission. So this shouldn't affect anything.
Also I hope my engine builder did not install my timing chain incorrectly. He has been doing this for 30 years. But I will check eventually just trying to check the easy stuff first.
Also I have trouble thinking it is the tuning I used one person for a mail order tune and thought maybe they screwed it up and then tried another person and this same problem is occuring from both mail order tuners.
Again thanks for all the help and continuing help.
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Well since you have checked your fuel and it seems to be ok..mark that out..sensors that can cause a lean cond. are either you MAF, O2 sensors, your pcm going bad..or like I said before a vaccum leak there are a sea of hoses on the car..a slight tear or deterioated hose can cause excess air going into your engine causing a lean cond..I was working on a car that had similar sypthoms and it was a intake leak undetectable becuase it was small but it was there changed the gasket and is working ok..no codes..Not saying this is what you have but check the other parts first..A can of break cleaner can come in handing finding leaks..