1C3 MAN

iTrader: (4)

Have any of you guys dont this upgrade?

i am looking to do it because the stock LT1 brakes SUCK!

how much of a difference did they make?
And is there a cheaper option that will give me the same results? Cause the kit is 819.00.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

Yep. Huge difference, definitely one of the best mods I did. I would get the trackbrackets which are a lot beefier than the UMI ones and actually engineered, then look for someone on corvette forum who upgraded his brakes and buy his old stuff. I sold my old brackets to SSRRR and I think he bought all the brakes/hardware/pads for around $250.

Link for the brackets

http://www.lmperformance.com/18663/1.html

1toofastlt1

iTrader: (4)

its a great mod and a great thing to have if you start making your car any faster. I bought everything used and total I was in my kit for about $450-500

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Night and day difference. Far more practical than doing the LS1 f-body swap. It's just as fun stopping as it is going.

1C3 MAN

iTrader: (4)

what do you guys think of these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CORVE...Q5fAccessories


Seems like a good deal for all four calipers dont you think?

i know i will need the conversion brackets but what els will i need to mount them?

and what will it take to get the rears on?


thanks again guys

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

I dont think the rears will work. Just order a full kit with EVERYTHING you need for the swap from www.umiperformance.com or www.bmrsuspension.com

1C3 MAN

iTrader: (4)

Well the reason i dont just order a kit from one of those websites is because everyone is telling me i can do it cheaper than the 820.00 they want.

and they also have just the fronts for 259.99

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CORVE...Q5fAccessories

And i know i will need Rotors and brackets. i will order the brackets from the link provided by speed demon. And i was looking at getting R1 concepts rotors. There only 96.00 a piece.

but what hardware will i need to install them?

95batmobile

iTrader: (2)

make sure you go with some drilled and slotted. i just went slotted and there was a good difference.. but i have driven one with d/s and it was soooo much better.

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

I pieced mine together for less then theres aswell but its nice to just order a kit for a tiny bit more and have less headachs.. If your going to piece it together i highly suggest you talk to mr sam strano (www.stranoparts.com) hell be able to tell you which rotors and pads will work best for your driving style.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You can also check the F/S forums on corvetteforums. There's usually a handful of people selling C5 calipers.

97badass

iTrader: (8)

oreillys?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

You can find the complete kit for $733 at WS6store.com. And they come with blank (not drilled or slotted) rotors, which perform better. Great guys over there and they ship quickly also.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...onversion-kit/

spudnick3119

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you can use the dual piston f-body calipers in place of the more expensive Corvette calipers. The only difference between the two is how they are cast (gravity vs. pressure cast).

I'm looking into the swap as well and seems like you could save a good chunk of money by going this route.

TheHeadFL

I am sure this has been covered extensively in the Brakes forum, but drilled/slotted rotors are purely appearance only on modern brake pads. In fact they can hurt your braking performance.

TheHeadFL

This is true, but also at issue is rotor diameter. Which is going to make a lot more difference than the castings...

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Correct! People in the know use blanks.

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Someone want to explain for me why blanks are better then d/s rotors?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

This is nothing new and has been discussed/explained many times.

Years ago, friction material (what’s in the pads) wasn’t as advanced as today. The adhesives and binders in the mix would out-gas when heated. This was causing a layer of gasses between the pads and rotors which would cause reduced braking action, often called fade.

Drilling holes in the rotors gave the gasses a path to escape.

One problem with this is cracked rotors. The holes cause stress risers and with thermal cycles, cracks start at the holes. Chamfering the holes or casting the rotors with holes like Porsche does/did does little to help.

Another disadvantage is that brake rotors absorb and dissipate heat through their mass (weight) and surface swept area. Drilling rotors reduces their weight and surface swept area. Even if you never really heat up your rotors, drilled rotors do not have the braking performance of blank rotors. Look at it this way: Drilled rotors is kind of like having a smaller rotor.

Slotted rotors were developed for a different reason. Slots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos pads often glazed over. The slots scraped them clean. Their disadvantage is they wear the pads quickly. The disadvantage here is reduced pad life. Asbestos is no longer used in brake pads. Slotted rotors do nothing to enhance braking performance.

Pad out-gassing and asbestos pads are a thing of the past. The fix for them is no longer needed.

Drilled or slotted rotors do have one advantage: They look cool (to some people). If you must have that look do so but don’t kid yourself that they perform better than blanks. They do not.

More in-depth (longer & more technical) reading can be found here:

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspe...ml#post2691366

FormulaJoe

iTrader: (5)

Thanks man. Haven't been around as long as most of you guys (I'm 18) so that was complete news to me.

I was a bit quick to respond to this whereas an easier option for all of us would have been me using the search bar on the googles. Thanks for taking the time for a good lesson learned by me though.

great421

iTrader: (1)

Paul Bell -

Well stated.

No opinion, just the facts!