LT1TECH

i just baught this car from a 67 year old woman.. i love the car.. i just have the same problem that most people have..ITS NOT FAST ENOUGH! so i need some help on building it.. i just put 4 new tires on it and im ordering a 58mm holley throtle body for it friday and also a cold air intake.. i gutted the cat and put a flowmaster 40 under it.. i like the way it sounds now..i took it @ the track here in texas this weekend and was running high 13's -low 14's but like i said its completly stock.. so im on here trying too get some advice on what 2 do and where 2 stars building it at.. all advice will be greatly appreciated. thanks

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

Here is some advice from one who has built an LT1.

Also mind you, is this an automatic car?? If so what rear gear ratio?

Mods that "work"

- Cold Air intake- K&N makes a really good one
- 1LE intake Elbow, or mod it to remove the Silencer
- Stock MAF (do not port or mod, leave it alone)
- Stock T/B Do not bother swapping this out, unless you want one with a integrated Nitrous plate/ spray bar which I am not even sure is being made anymore
- Headers
- CAT delete, not a gutted cat. Create turbulence
- Flowmaster is ok, but restrictive. Look into a Exhuast Cut out, put it before the over-the-axle hump.
- Depending on Transmission, a Converter or clutch upgrade can/will help but with your car if its an Auto, you need to have the "Stall Wall" removed, its in the tune which most good mail order guys can do since it was a very big issue for 1994/1995 ODBI 4L60e's
- Gearing upgrade helps more with manual cars due to the 1st gear ratio in the T-56 for anything after 1994.
- After thats done, and you work on some suspension, then start looking at cams, heads, 1.6 ratio RR vs stocker 1.5's Most cams are ground knowing a 1.6 will go in there. Most good cams run a NON self aligning rocker from comp cams. Their Pro Mag series.
- When installing headers, get good at keeping the header gasket tight and not warped, the primary arrangement is prone to blowing out the gaskets. Also routing plug wires is fun and if not done right will be having to deal with burnt wires.
- Electric waterpumps will free up 8-10 RWHP vs a U/D Pulley only nets 1-2 @ peak on a dyno. Do a U/D pulley only if your looking for every bit of power, it does decent under curve gain but the peak is crap. Since it's only spinning a alternator, a clutch activated A/C and a P/S pump, not much parasitic loss.
- Intake Manifold distributes like **** for wet nitrous kits but flows well enough to not need an upgrade. LT4 is not a big deal and aftermarket intakes do next to nothing.
- Lighten the car up is one of the best things you can do. Having a iron block is not helping you and maybe the removal of things that are not "needed" are sure fire things to help you go faster.

These are just some of the things I know. Depending on a REAL budget, you can decide what you want and need and I can tell you with utter certainty a T/B even on a 383 was almost nothing in gains and could have been spent better elsewhere.

JMc94

No need to buy a throttle body. Stock is fine, and when it doesn't suit your needs - port it.
Get the basics done first.
Oil, plugs, coil, seafoam, fuel filter, and other small things.

Then look into porting the heads and intake manifold.
If you have a few extra thousand, buy AI or LE heads with a new cam.
Remember to save money, because the opti will die.

Z28Camaro30Ann

iTrader: (15)

Agreed, stock is fine depending on what you want exactly! MAX a 52mm unless you are building a 383 Stroker or something like that however I recommend a stock TB.

Jasoncabell

i second BlackScreamingMachine

TravisMcGill2000

iTrader: (2)

Headers, gear, cai, cutout, lca , sfc, and sticky tires

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

Intake, exhaust, cam, heads, and tune in that order. Help your LT1 car breathe but forget about the throttle body because it doesn't become a bottleneck until your figures explode. The 502 Ram Jet uses a 48mm TB so don't bother.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

stall and tranny cooler(if a4), lca relocation brackets, drag radials, then headers, cutouts, and the cheapest CAI you can find.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

From exp I can tell you even on a 383, unless its something max effort a larger TB will not do as much as the money spent could be spent better elsewhere.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

some good info in here for a newbie........from a non newbie stay away from a 58mm tb for ur car..........1st issue is your tb openings in the intake are 48mm your going to create a boat load of turbulance if you just slap the 58m on there with out porting the opening...........dont waste ur money......

3 pedal SS

iTrader: (1)

I concur with all the above, In this order-CAI, headers,1,6 roller rockers with sprngs,stall,gears,tune. After that the skys the limit ($$$),