ProbablyInsane

I'm having a bit of trouble grasping the concept of the cooling system setup from the B-Body LT1. The engine is from a '96 Impala, and what's throwing me for a loop is the 3 outlets on the water pump. Now, before anyone hates or flames, the engine was sold to me with the transmission out of the car. I don't have the car, therefore have no idea how the setup runs. The engine and tranny will be going into my 1991 Jeep Cherokee (hence my name, ProbablyInsane) using conversion hardware from Novak. I understand obviously that the t-stat housing outlet runs to the radiator inlet, and then the bottom inlet on the pump takes fluid from the outlet of the radiator. But what's the deal with the third inlet/outlet on the right side of the water pump? Does the stock Impala have 3 inlet/outlets on the radiator? Also, from the few good pictures I have found, the t-stat outlet runs to the left side (looking at the front of the vehicle) of the radiator, to an inlet that is on the bottom of the end tank. Then outlet of the radiator is on the opposite side at the top of the end tank. Would it cause problems to switch those orientations? Meaning, all Jeep Cherokee radiators have the inlets and outlets on the same side, except the inlet is on TOP of the end tank, and the outlet is on the bottom of the opposite end tank.

(Stock rad pic. The rad Im getting is much beefier to handle LT1 heat)
http://www.alumrad.com/9178%20Cherokee.jpg

Will the LT1 work just as well with this setup? It's still a crossflow radiator. Also, my year Jeep uses an open cooling system. From what I've seen, Impala LT1's had a closed loop system with a pressure bottle. Will there be any problems running an open system on the LT1 with a standard overflow bottle?

I appreciate any and all help with these questions. I know it's a mouthful, and probably newb questions, but again thanks in advance.

shbox

The extra hose is for an oil cooler. You can cap it off (it was closed on Corvettes). There are all kinds of cooling system diagrams for the fbody on my website(link in sig). As long as the coolant flows in/out of the radiator, I think you will be OK.

ProbablyInsane

I'm confused now. I was going by this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8XscndbK18) which in the first minute or so he clearly disconnects three larger hoses, all of which he labels radiator hoses.

But then, I looked at AutoZone for the 96 Impala Water pump, and it does seem to have this extra outlet. Am I missing something here? Or is this that wierd outlet for an oil cooler? How would coolant be used in an oil cooler?

http://www.rccauto.com/ebaystore/1759.jpg

shbox

Did you look at any of the diagrams on my website? Are you sure it has a b-body pump? They don't use the oil cooler hose, either (sorry, I forgot).
http://shbox.com/1/lt1_water_pumps.jpg

I see the guy in the video remove 2 radiator hoses and two heater hoses.

F-body LT1s use coolant with a plate at the oil filter attachment point to help control oil temp.
http://shbox.com/1/oil_cooler.jpg

05HD

LOL. Please don't ever put that much sealant on a gasket. That guy is doing that because he doesn't know the 4 long bolts need thread sealer because they go into the water jacket and half a tube of sealer is the only way he ever got a chevy water pump not to leak.

Also, listen to shbox, he knows his stuff.

BALLSS

B Body WP has 2 radiator and 2 heater hoses attached.

you want to use the plastic fill tank from the donor car. steam pipe hose goes into it.

ProbablyInsane

Ah, I see my error. The LT1 in the video is from a Vette, if I read the covers right. Thank you for helping me get this straight and understood. So the B-body pump simply has 2 inlet/outlets for the rad hoses, and 2 inlet/outlets for the heater hoses. And the Jeep radiator should work fine, since it's still moving coolant in the same direction as the stock Impala radiator. But what about being converted to an open system? Will that be ok as well?

ProbablyInsane

Well, I think Im getting close to answer about the open system. After reviewing websites as well as shbox's site (VERY good stuff btw), IIRC the F-bodies use a convential open system by teeing off the steam vent hose which would normally enter the pressure bottle into the heater hose. However, this system utilizes two relief valves. Is it at all possible to may do a hybrid system? I mean, in the sense of using the pressure bottle for the steam hook ups and what not, but have it connected to a radiator with a rad cap rated at the same pressure? Also, I would have to do some plastic welding to get a pressure bottle that would fit in the Cherokee, but it would still have the hook ups and pressure cap.

shbox

The remote reservoir is not tee'd off the steam pipe (on an f-body). It is connected to the familiar pressure relief port on the radiator filler neck. All you need to do it supply a remote reservoir that is capable of flowing coolant back into the radiator if it expelled into the reservoir during engine operation. It does not have to be capable of handling any pressure.

ProbablyInsane

Ok, so I looked back over your drawings for the 96' radiator hoses to go along with your explaination and I understand what's going on, I hope. I think I'm just complicating this more than neccesary. The LT1 with an open system has every component every other system has, but also has those steam hoses. If I looked correctly, and please correct me if I'm wrong, the steam vents in the rear of the heads connect into one hose, and that hose ran to the radiator. So with the introduction of this new hose, I would need to offer a new port on the radiator, correct? Because the radiators for Jeeps only have one port on the filler neck, which runs to the overflow bottle where I'm guessing excess pressure pushes the pressure spring in the cap up, and forces coolant through this passage into the overflow. But in reverse, suction made by a lack of coolant in the system pulls coolant from the overflow to the filler neck and into the radiator. Is this right? If so, then I imagine the LT1 open system works the same, just with that steam hose.

If I am correct, then all I need to do with a Jeep radiator is add another port for the steam hose, right?

shbox

That all sounds correct. For conversions, some will plumb the steam line into one of the heater or radiator hoses with a tee adapter. Or you can add the port to the radiator.

ProbablyInsane

Awesome! Thank you for helping me figure this one out. So, using something kinda like this (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attac...1&d=1296538670) in the upper radiator hose should be fine?

I also have new concern. On the Jeep radiator, the transmission cooler lines, which would usually be on the cooled side of the radiator, would now be on the inlet side of the radiator that the water pump routes to. I'm going to see if when I order the radiator if they can have the locations swapped, and I irregardless I'll be running an aftermarket tranny cooler with the rad tranny cooler.

Last question. In regards to my first post about the radiator inlet/outlet locations, will the system be able to push fluid through the radiator, into the end tank, and then up through the outlet on the passengers side?

shbox

That type of fitting is what I was referring to. I have seen some others out there (sorry, don't have the URLs).

I can't answer with certainty about the flow (and/or how well it would work). Maybe a radiator shop could tell you.

ProbablyInsane

Well, after further research into the interwebs, I have learned that it probably is NOT a good idea to reverse the locations of the inlet and outlet vertically. According to a source, the water pump can't fight the weight of the coolant, trying to push it not only across the radiator but up as well into the outlet. No biggy... I think what I'll do, since the radiator is 100% aluminum, is find a good rad shop to switch the bung locations. Shouldn't be an issue... cut the bungs, weld a patch over the old hole, drill the new holes, reweld the bungs. I can buy a radiator from Novak with this inlet outlet orientation already done, but it's $600. The radiator system I am getting is of the same quality, same core thickness, includes electric fans, shrouds, relays, etc, lifetime warranty, and only about $350. Even if the radiator shop work comes out to $100, I still save nearly $150. Thanks for all the help!

shbox

Have them stick a port on it for the steam pipe and you'll be all set. I was a little skeptical of the height difference of the ports, too and wondered if gravity might be an issue.

ProbablyInsane

Will do! When I do have this done, should I just have the port put into the end tank? Thanks again for all your help. Very much appreciated!

shbox

Yeah, as the drawings on my site shows, the steam port is just below the filler neck.