Trend PR's arrived today
#1
Trend PR's arrived today
Got my Trend PR's in the mail today, a few days earlier then expected. They were ordered on the 12th, and I got them today on the 22nd. 8 business days is not too bad for custom order pushrods. Their customer service was great.
They are 3/8" .135 walled with 210 5/16 ends, 8.130" long. Here is one next to a ballpoint pen for reference - they are toddler fingers .
They are 3/8" .135 walled with 210 5/16 ends, 8.130" long. Here is one next to a ballpoint pen for reference - they are toddler fingers .
#3
Those are some long pushrods! Are you sure you don't have a big-block? LOL. I ordered mine from Trend as well. Great company to deal with. I got mine in 3 days though! Those things must weigh a lot!
#4
They were mocked up to measure PR length and test PTV then removed, and but I haven't gotten to install them properly yet.
3 of the head bolts on each side need the springs to be removed first, and I've been procrastinating because of that. Having to pull springs to install head bolts, what a PITA huh?
The valves and springs are pretty long and the shaft mount pedestals are tall. The length is one of the reason they are .135...if they were shorter I probably could have gotten away with a lighter thinner wall. They weigh a ton! I'll trade more lobe side weight for stability any day though...
I am way down in FL and mine were custom length, so I had to wait for them to machine them then ship them literally across the country.
Tuesday if my day off so I'll try to install the heads/intake and set lash. I am going to run the taller port LT4 race intake gaskets for now, but have an idea for that as well that I will be testing once its together .
3 of the head bolts on each side need the springs to be removed first, and I've been procrastinating because of that. Having to pull springs to install head bolts, what a PITA huh?
I am way down in FL and mine were custom length, so I had to wait for them to machine them then ship them literally across the country.
Tuesday if my day off so I'll try to install the heads/intake and set lash. I am going to run the taller port LT4 race intake gaskets for now, but have an idea for that as well that I will be testing once its together .
#5
Take a grinder to the head bolts in question. Some of them flare out to the mating surface too wide. If you install them then put the springs on, the springs might bind up if they make contact with the bolt. I had to grind one of the washers down and slightly grind on one of the nuts for the nut to be threaded on the stud in the centermost bolt.
#6
Take a grinder to the head bolts in question. Some of them flare out to the mating surface too wide. If you install them then put the springs on, the springs might bind up if they make contact with the bolt. I had to grind one of the washers down and slightly grind on one of the nuts for the nut to be threaded on the stud in the centermost bolt.
#7
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#11
Mine are 1.550" od as well.
This is what I did to the center washers:
Then I just put the nut onto an extra stud and ran it over a grinder for a minute to make the flared out section a shade narrower. Fits like a charm.
This is what I did to the center washers:
Then I just put the nut onto an extra stud and ran it over a grinder for a minute to make the flared out section a shade narrower. Fits like a charm.
#12
If I can find something I can use without pulling the springs to install the heads then I wouldn't mind spending a little more for that ease of assembly - if I end up having to pull the heads later for a gasket or something ill be glad I did.
#13
The stud kit came loose in a box when I bought the shortblock so I don't have a part number. I did a quick search on summitracing and found this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-234-4301/
That looks to be the exact kit. Keep in mind that I didn't use the top row of studs. I had to purchase a bolt kit as well since the studs can't be used where the shaft rocker mounting base attaches to the cylinder head. Use teflon tape and a small dab of sealant when you use these studs. I had 3 of them weep coolant on me at the shootout. I took them out and used teflon tape and a dab of liquid and haven't had a problem since. 2 people at the shootout told me it's common to have ARP studs leak. I did a google search and found that people have sucess with the tape moreso than the liquid. If I get some ambition this winter I will redo all of them.
Just so you know you can purchase studs individually. You don't have to buy the entire kit. Maybe you will only need 2 of them for the center bolts.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-234-4301/
That looks to be the exact kit. Keep in mind that I didn't use the top row of studs. I had to purchase a bolt kit as well since the studs can't be used where the shaft rocker mounting base attaches to the cylinder head. Use teflon tape and a small dab of sealant when you use these studs. I had 3 of them weep coolant on me at the shootout. I took them out and used teflon tape and a dab of liquid and haven't had a problem since. 2 people at the shootout told me it's common to have ARP studs leak. I did a google search and found that people have sucess with the tape moreso than the liquid. If I get some ambition this winter I will redo all of them.
Just so you know you can purchase studs individually. You don't have to buy the entire kit. Maybe you will only need 2 of them for the center bolts.
#17
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The stud kit came loose in a box when I bought the shortblock so I don't have a part number. I did a quick search on summitracing and found this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-234-4301/
That looks to be the exact kit. Keep in mind that I didn't use the top row of studs. I had to purchase a bolt kit as well since the studs can't be used where the shaft rocker mounting base attaches to the cylinder head. Use teflon tape and a small dab of sealant when you use these studs. I had 3 of them weep coolant on me at the shootout. I took them out and used teflon tape and a dab of liquid and haven't had a problem since. 2 people at the shootout told me it's common to have ARP studs leak. I did a google search and found that people have sucess with the tape moreso than the liquid. If I get some ambition this winter I will redo all of them.
Just so you know you can purchase studs individually. You don't have to buy the entire kit. Maybe you will only need 2 of them for the center bolts.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-234-4301/
That looks to be the exact kit. Keep in mind that I didn't use the top row of studs. I had to purchase a bolt kit as well since the studs can't be used where the shaft rocker mounting base attaches to the cylinder head. Use teflon tape and a small dab of sealant when you use these studs. I had 3 of them weep coolant on me at the shootout. I took them out and used teflon tape and a dab of liquid and haven't had a problem since. 2 people at the shootout told me it's common to have ARP studs leak. I did a google search and found that people have sucess with the tape moreso than the liquid. If I get some ambition this winter I will redo all of them.
Just so you know you can purchase studs individually. You don't have to buy the entire kit. Maybe you will only need 2 of them for the center bolts.
#19
Hoping to have the physical motor fully assembled tomorrow w/ intake and everything, then its just 3 main things left - fuel lines+AFPR, damper, and the expensive part...whatever computer/harness I go with. Still tossing around between the badass 24x setup or a much cheaper junkyard Vortec 411 setup. Will probably go 24x and pickup a good condition harness to repin myself for ease of setup - it looks like a killer kit.
At this point I'll probably miss the good weather...we only get like 3 cool months down here(which haven't started yet, its still 90*) then its hot as ***** again.