New to nitrous, a few questions
#1
New to nitrous, a few questions
For $200 I got an NX nitrous kit with a half full 10lb bottle with gauge, bottle bracket, 15 feet of braided hose to the bottle from nitrous solenoid, braided hose from fuel solenoid to the rail, the 40amp relay, nozzle that merges the fuel and nitrous that will be put in the intake after the maf and before the tb, and jets from 35hp to 200. I am in the market now for a tps and window switch as well as a bottle heater.
FOR NOW I am planning on using the timing adjuster on my MSD opti to retard it 2.5 degrees for a 75 shot and use 1 step colder TR6 plugs. Also ordered a 255gph walbro fuel pump.
Since I'm posting from my phone my sig won't show up but I am full boltons minus rrs, m6 with stock 3.42s in stock 10 bolt, stock replacement clutch, trifecta mail order tune from 3 years ago. On et streets I run 12.53 at 110.33 with 1.84 60'.
I'm looking for a window switch that allows me to lock out 1st gear so only spray 2nd through 4th from 3000-5800rpm.
Questions:
I want to mount the bottle on the firewall behind my gutted dash to keep the stock look but have read that the bottle should be mounted at a 15 degree angle with the nozzle pointing toward the front of the car. For how many reasons is this a bad idea?
Has anyone here SUCCESSFULLY used their MSD opti to adjust timing?
The guy I bought the kit from said I need a valvestem puller to pull the pin in the spot where the fuel solenoid line goes to the fitting on the rail, is this true?
Is 5800rpm a good spot to deactivate the window switch? I currently shift at 6100 by the factory tach and I know that is off by a bit.
Do I need any other ventilation for the bottle since we don't have a trunk?
I'm looking for bottle heaters and will get one when I find a good price on a used one.
What else can I use to dial out timing, I'm not going to go above 100 at the track this season so I'd need to pull 4 degrees.
Any other advice/tips/stuff I'm missing? I want to hide the solenoids where the air pump used to be and have the nozzle come in the fernco coupling behind my ls1 lid on the bottom side so it is hidden.
FOR NOW I am planning on using the timing adjuster on my MSD opti to retard it 2.5 degrees for a 75 shot and use 1 step colder TR6 plugs. Also ordered a 255gph walbro fuel pump.
Since I'm posting from my phone my sig won't show up but I am full boltons minus rrs, m6 with stock 3.42s in stock 10 bolt, stock replacement clutch, trifecta mail order tune from 3 years ago. On et streets I run 12.53 at 110.33 with 1.84 60'.
I'm looking for a window switch that allows me to lock out 1st gear so only spray 2nd through 4th from 3000-5800rpm.
Questions:
I want to mount the bottle on the firewall behind my gutted dash to keep the stock look but have read that the bottle should be mounted at a 15 degree angle with the nozzle pointing toward the front of the car. For how many reasons is this a bad idea?
Has anyone here SUCCESSFULLY used their MSD opti to adjust timing?
The guy I bought the kit from said I need a valvestem puller to pull the pin in the spot where the fuel solenoid line goes to the fitting on the rail, is this true?
Is 5800rpm a good spot to deactivate the window switch? I currently shift at 6100 by the factory tach and I know that is off by a bit.
Do I need any other ventilation for the bottle since we don't have a trunk?
I'm looking for bottle heaters and will get one when I find a good price on a used one.
What else can I use to dial out timing, I'm not going to go above 100 at the track this season so I'd need to pull 4 degrees.
Any other advice/tips/stuff I'm missing? I want to hide the solenoids where the air pump used to be and have the nozzle come in the fernco coupling behind my ls1 lid on the bottom side so it is hidden.
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#8
Staging Lane
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The reason for mounting the bottle in the recommend direction is the pick up for the n2o is at the back of the bottle. Mounting the bottle differently can lead to inconsistent nitrous delivery under hard acceleration.
Or so I've been told, I've always mounted them valve forward.
Or so I've been told, I've always mounted them valve forward.
#10
TECH Senior Member
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mount it on a flat surface, the angle the brackest put it in when mounted on a flat surface is perfect.
Why would you want to add weight to the nose of the car anyway? That's *** backwards.
If you have to add weight, you want it where it can benefit you, over the rear tires...
No problem with starting at a 75 shot, but you'll move to a 100, then 125, then 150 about as fast as you can swap jets. I will almost gaurantee that lol.
No reason not to spray a 150 IMO.
If tuned right, it will be fine. I would dont it with the opti though. I would get a way to tune the PCM which is pretty simple, and make sure you read the plugs, or at least have a wideband to verify the fueling.
#11
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Yes you need a valve stem tool to remove the shreader valve in the rail so you get fuel flow to the solenoid.
As for timing adjustments, I use a MSD digital 6 that has a high speed retard. As soon as the nitrous is engaged the Msd retards timing to set point. Works great everytime. A good spot for the bottle is in between the rear seats in the back on the hump. You can turn on the juice when your driving and monitor bottle pressure from the driver seat.
As for timing adjustments, I use a MSD digital 6 that has a high speed retard. As soon as the nitrous is engaged the Msd retards timing to set point. Works great everytime. A good spot for the bottle is in between the rear seats in the back on the hump. You can turn on the juice when your driving and monitor bottle pressure from the driver seat.
#12
Just got off the phone with MSD, he said turning the MSD opti screw adjusts timing by +5/-5 NOT +7/-7. He said turning the screw IN advances it, OUT retards it, stock is 2 turns out.
He also said that for nitrous you shouldn't leave the ignition retarded all the time, that it needs to be instantaneously adjusted when the nitrous is activated like what a digital 6 plus does. I was under the impression that alot of people here get nitrous tunes in their cars that keep the timing retarded all the time. I was planning on retarding it 4 degrees using the opti and spraying 100. Is it ok to leave the timing retarded even when not spraying? The car is only driven the 20 miles to the track, raced, and 20 miles home all at 65mph.
He also said that for nitrous you shouldn't leave the ignition retarded all the time, that it needs to be instantaneously adjusted when the nitrous is activated like what a digital 6 plus does. I was under the impression that alot of people here get nitrous tunes in their cars that keep the timing retarded all the time. I was planning on retarding it 4 degrees using the opti and spraying 100. Is it ok to leave the timing retarded even when not spraying? The car is only driven the 20 miles to the track, raced, and 20 miles home all at 65mph.
#17
TECH Senior Member
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But to answer your question, in short the tech at MSD doesnt know what he is talking about. He was likely trying to sell you something else you dont have to have.
You can leave the timing retarded for nitrous all the time. As long as it is tuned for it, you wont hurt a damn thing except it can be a turd when not spraying, depending on how much you pull...
You can leave the timing retarded for nitrous all the time. As long as it is tuned for it, you wont hurt a damn thing except it can be a turd when not spraying, depending on how much you pull...