Street twin trouble!
11-21-2011, 02:05 PM
#1
Street twin trouble! This thing is a pain in the ***. It's bad enough the car fought me every inch of the way and it took three days to tear it down and put it back together.
Clutch is engaging with the pedal right off the floor? I followed the directions, clutch pedal is approx. 1" lower than the brake pedal.
Also I had no weight on my last flywheel, so I took the weight off this one. Well looks like I have to pull the inspection cover and stick the weight back on as it vibrates as soon as you raise the RPMs any. I'm guessing the weight has to do with the clutch/flywheel assembly being balanced and has nothing to do with the engine balance??
So I can't get into reverse, forward gears have more resistance than I'm used to. Just needs more bleeding? Different adj. on the master? I have to pull this POS all the way back apart???
Shims seemed to have been right, checked with a those metal feeler gauge deals.
Clutch is engaging with the pedal right off the floor? I followed the directions, clutch pedal is approx. 1" lower than the brake pedal.
Also I had no weight on my last flywheel, so I took the weight off this one. Well looks like I have to pull the inspection cover and stick the weight back on as it vibrates as soon as you raise the RPMs any. I'm guessing the weight has to do with the clutch/flywheel assembly being balanced and has nothing to do with the engine balance??
So I can't get into reverse, forward gears have more resistance than I'm used to. Just needs more bleeding? Different adj. on the master? I have to pull this POS all the way back apart???
Shims seemed to have been right, checked with a those metal feeler gauge deals.
11-21-2011, 02:10 PM
#2
The LT1 uses a weighted flywheel or flex plate. For some reason Chevy decided the front was internal balanced and the rear is external. The clutch problem is something you need to look at and see what's really happening. What clutch did you use?
Al 95 Z28
Al 95 Z28
11-21-2011, 02:50 PM
#3
That weight needs to stay on unless you have an internally balanced engine. As for the slave/master I didnt change anything after I took it off and worked great on my car, it should be completely bled already unless you disconnected it to put it in. When I adjusted it on my car I just put the rear end on jack stands to let the tires spin and messed with the engagement until it was where I wanted it. Then took on a test drive to double check it was working right. Took a few tries to get it right. I tried setting it like the instructions also but wasnt happy with how it engaged.
11-21-2011, 03:34 PM
#4
Well I just tried to bleed it from the bottom, pushed the slave in with my hand.
Problem is the fitting coming out of the master cylinder to the reservoir broke during shipping! Also looks like the outer housing of the pressure plate got a little dent during shipping also, doesn't look like it would affect the performance of the pressure plate so I went ahead and installed it.
Yeah it was pretty obvious I had to put the weight back on.
All I know is my SLP billet flywheel didn't have any weights on it. I put the weight on, about to go see if things are improved any, like if I can even engage reverse yet.
Problem is the fitting coming out of the master cylinder to the reservoir broke during shipping! Also looks like the outer housing of the pressure plate got a little dent during shipping also, doesn't look like it would affect the performance of the pressure plate so I went ahead and installed it.
Yeah it was pretty obvious I had to put the weight back on.
All I know is my SLP billet flywheel didn't have any weights on it. I put the weight on, about to go see if things are improved any, like if I can even engage reverse yet. 
11-21-2011, 04:00 PM
#7
The dent doesn't appear to be into the prongs or forks or whatever they are called.
draggin97s10, the slave side doesn't appear to be adjustable? Should I adjust the master so the pedal comes out farther? It's almost even with the brake pedal now....
So yeah it seems to take a little more effort than usual to get it to go into forward gears, reverse is impossible. Pedal feels great, a bit more stiffer than stock replacement setup that came out, is that normal with the adj. setup?
I'm fearing the idea that I might have to tear it all apart again.
draggin97s10, the slave side doesn't appear to be adjustable? Should I adjust the master so the pedal comes out farther? It's almost even with the brake pedal now....
So yeah it seems to take a little more effort than usual to get it to go into forward gears, reverse is impossible. Pedal feels great, a bit more stiffer than stock replacement setup that came out, is that normal with the adj. setup?
I'm fearing the idea that I might have to tear it all apart again.
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11-21-2011, 04:23 PM
#8
[QUOTE=
So yeah it seems to take a little more effort than usual to get it to go into forward gears, reverse is impossible. Pedal feels great, a bit more stiffer than stock replacement setup that came out, is that normal with the adj. setup?
I'm fearing the idea that I might have to tear it all apart again.[/QUOTE]
Sounds like the clutch is not completely disengaging. Next thing you're going to damage the synchros in the transmission. Don't mess around, get after it quick. For now, kill the engine, put it in reverse and restart the engine.
Al 95 Z28
So yeah it seems to take a little more effort than usual to get it to go into forward gears, reverse is impossible. Pedal feels great, a bit more stiffer than stock replacement setup that came out, is that normal with the adj. setup?
I'm fearing the idea that I might have to tear it all apart again.[/QUOTE]
Sounds like the clutch is not completely disengaging. Next thing you're going to damage the synchros in the transmission. Don't mess around, get after it quick. For now, kill the engine, put it in reverse and restart the engine.
Al 95 Z28
11-21-2011, 10:04 PM
#10
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Do you have an adjustable master? If so try adjusting it so the clutch pedal is 1/4"-1/2" Lower than your brake pedal. Mine was bang on first time. I just can't recall how much lower my clutch pedal is compared to my brake, I'm working out of town so I can't check for you but its somewhere in the 1/4"-1/2" range.
11-21-2011, 11:40 PM
#12
Didn't think to take pictures of the dent or the broken fitting. The dent doesn't appear to interfere with it. I suppose if I mess with the master and I still can't get it to disengauge I'll have to tear back into it. Suppose I'll snag a picure then. I might call Mcleod and see what they say to get the PP repaired or if I can use my old PP, but I'm sure they wouldn't advise mixing components. Right away I know thats probably a bad idea. I'll bring it up a bit more tomorrow, but it looks to me to be about where it was this morning with where you had it set.
I'll bring it up a bit more tomorrow, but it looks to me to be about where it was this morning with where you had it set.
11-22-2011, 07:21 AM
#13
I'd guess the answer is yes, but if I do mail out the street twin and put my old setup in for now, I take it I can still use the adj. master cylinder setup? I don't see any reason I can't, but figure I'd ask. It would be less work obviously if I can.
11-22-2011, 10:27 AM
#14
You def can use the adj master with your old clutch but I wouldnt waste time pulling it yet yet. I highly doubt the dent is an issue unless its dragging somewhere. When I got my car back from Speedinc they had it set closer to what the instructions said but I was having the same issue as you. The I adjusted it all the way to the point it was even if not above the gas pedal to get the right feel. I never measured it but it shifted fine. BTW I believe ALL PP are the same.
11-22-2011, 11:51 AM
#16
I can hear an audible click about halfway through the clutch pedal travel? Sounds like its coming from the outside of the car. A softer click is heard when bringing the pedal back up, at the end of its travel.
Initial thought is the clutch position switch, but I shut the door and it pretty much cut the volume way down, leading me to believe it coming from outside the car. Is this a clue or just random?
Called Mcleod, they didn't have much to tell me other than if I could get the .025 feeler between the bottom disc and the floater plate that its probably a hydraulic issue. Pedal feels firm as hell, I've tried pumping and holding the pedal and also pushing in the slave cylinder with my hand, how else could I even think of bleeding it?
Initial thought is the clutch position switch, but I shut the door and it pretty much cut the volume way down, leading me to believe it coming from outside the car. Is this a clue or just random?
Called Mcleod, they didn't have much to tell me other than if I could get the .025 feeler between the bottom disc and the floater plate that its probably a hydraulic issue. Pedal feels firm as hell, I've tried pumping and holding the pedal and also pushing in the slave cylinder with my hand, how else could I even think of bleeding it?
11-22-2011, 12:13 PM
#17
Anyone else use this method? DirtyDave in that link used a cut down spacer? I'm wishing I had a spare one to cut up.
Tech guy at Mcleod told me the pedal can feel great but there can still be air trapped in the system? As I've said, pedal is very firm. Also I did not shave down the pivot point, AC Hotrod said he didn't have to shave down his, so neither did I. I don't hear the bolts rubbing issue when I have the clutch fully depressed, so I guess that is not an issue?
Tech guy at Mcleod told me the pedal can feel great but there can still be air trapped in the system? As I've said, pedal is very firm. Also I did not shave down the pivot point, AC Hotrod said he didn't have to shave down his, so neither did I. I don't hear the bolts rubbing issue when I have the clutch fully depressed, so I guess that is not an issue?
11-22-2011, 02:31 PM
#18
Well I tried out the way in that link, I just left the spacer out and went til I ran out of threads with the nuts. No change. I'm guessing there must be some kind of issue with the shims. Proceeding to tear it all back down, if the shims check good I'm going to go nuts, not sure if I'm going to put it back in honestly or not.
Best case scenario the shims are not right and I make them right and try again. Pretty tempted to put my old setup back in now that I know it isn't shot and had a loose flywheel. I thought my old setup was just whipped but that wasn't the case.
Can I check the shimming off the car, just while holding it vertical and with the floater plate torqued to the 25 ft-lbs? I did it while in the car last time, so perhaps I couldn't get the best opinion all the way around it?
Pretty pissed off.
Best case scenario the shims are not right and I make them right and try again. Pretty tempted to put my old setup back in now that I know it isn't shot and had a loose flywheel. I thought my old setup was just whipped but that wasn't the case.
Can I check the shimming off the car, just while holding it vertical and with the floater plate torqued to the 25 ft-lbs? I did it while in the car last time, so perhaps I couldn't get the best opinion all the way around it?
Pretty pissed off.