tbag_skywalker

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2012&gid=288

Just found out the gf bought me LS7 lifters for Christmas... so now I've really gotta buy a cam.

I'm gonna be running this cam with stock heads, no plans on upgrading the heads in the near future.

I've got the Comp 1.6RR's, 7/16" studs, hardened stock length pushrods, GMPP guideplates, and Patriot Gold double valve springs.

I was looking for a fairly affordable cam that won't make the car hard to drive on the street and still get me around 350hp with stock heads... and now that Advanced Induction cams are up to $425, brands like Comp and Lunati don't sound bad at all.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

That's awefully similar to my cam and I have LE2 heads so I would say no, especially with stock heads, but I'll let the pros chime in on this one.

bm19

iTrader: (1)

true i got a CC503 and thats only .503/.510 and was told thats about the biggest i should go on stock heads

whytryz28

iTrader: (28)

Damn I want that cam. Seems like a good street cam, its only .535/.550, just dont run 1.6 rockers

azlt

iTrader: (2)

ive got the comp xfi 292 which is somewhat similar on a stock headed car (too big i know) but hell, i love it! its extremely easy to drive on the street, stalls a bit easyer if its still warming up but thats it. The amout of lope it gives is music to my ears. oh, and it feels a hell of alot faster too, dont have any dyno numbers for you unfortonately.
BIG CAMS FTW!
but logically speaking if you dont see new heads in your future, dont go for that big of a cam, ive got trickflows and a carbed intake on my list..

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

I'm running this cam in my new 383 ....it's got ported heads however, I'm expecting over 400 rwhp. The motor was just started for the first time yesterday, so I don't have any dyno results ect....can't wait to start driving it in the next couple weeks

I think a better cam choice for stock heads would be the next step down, the Voodoo 60121.....this was the cam in my car on the stock motor; it had excellent driveability, awesome torque, and sounded pretty choppy, very nice cam for a cam only car and won't be a pain to DD.

Blk98Vert

iTrader: (2)

Get it on a 112 and you will be fine

tbag_skywalker

Thanks for all of your advice guys, I appreciate it.

Although most are saying this cam is sort of overkill for stock heads I think I'm gonna go with it anyways. Like I said before I have no plans in the near future to upgrade my heads, but I know myself well enough to know that I'll get bored after a year or two and start looking at aftermarket heads lol.

I know the smartest thing to do here is to come up with a definite goal and stick with it, but every time I try to do so I change my mind or decide I don't want to spend the money when I get it.

Basically, I'm gonna go with this cam knowing that in another year or so I'm gonna buy heads to match it.

Blk98Vert - why do you say go with the 112LSA? I know 110 will make for a really choppy idle, do you think 110 is too much for a street car?

Puck

iTrader: (17)

I know you've heard it already, but that is too big for stock heads/stock cubes. Even if a year down the road you get new heads, that is when you should be getting a new cam anyway.

You don't buy heads for a cam, you buy a cam for your heads.

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

The cam looks good to me. As long as you run those springs you mentioned, you should be good to go. A good cold air intake and a set of long tube headers will compliment your "cam only" budget.

1963SS

I personally like the Lunati cams and have used the 60122 on several builds. It is a bear and does great under the curve as do most of the Lunati cams. It seems to me that you only want your car to sound mean and performance is secondary. There are much better Lunati cams for a stock headed engine that will give better performance, driveability, mileage and ease of tuning than the 60122.

If you're sitting at a light just thumping your butt off, sounding mean as hell and a stock Honda Accord is beside you, you'll probably get your azz handed to you. Now that would be an embarrassment. I'd prefer to blow him away and maybe not "thump" quite as much.

trilkb

iTrader: (4)

Dont see how that cam is any worse then a cc306 (230/244 vs its 231/239). If you ran 1.6 rockers youd have some big lift numbers. .570/.586. Alot of these cams from lt1/ls1 specialy grinds have intake lift slightly higher then exhaust lift. but a .570/.586 spread is alot nicer then a cc306 spread.

I run a 226/232 .606/.603 on stock heads. It makes power, and its on a mail order tune till the wideband gets ordered. My only trip to the track, 1 run with a lost t-top, 3.23 gears, a 2.1 60 and not going to crazy got me a time in the 1/8th that wouldve been around 13.1-13.4 in the 1/4. Take that 60ft down to a 1.8 and thats a mid 12 second run. That being said, ive almost lost all hope that a cam only lt1 can be insanely fast or insanely slow, they all do about the same. if heads arnt in your future it might be better to just get a slightly smaller cam that has better driveability and gets better mpg.

Obviously any larger cam would benifit from ported heads. Everyone saying that that cam is to large i dont think is right. Duration wise a gm847 is larger @ 232/234. People daily drive a gm847 on stock heads though. You could go all out and run that lunati 231/239 with 1.6's and go for it, or keep it with 1.5's. If its a new tech cam the ramp rates might even be freindly and not be as harsh on valvetrain and you could run 1.6's without careing

Blk98Vert

iTrader: (2)

I had a 110 LSA with a 228/236 and my power was a bit peaky. I would go with a GM847 over the lunati. With the right stall it drives fine

tbag_skywalker

Man this forum is funny sometimes...

No

Did not make sense.

tbag_skywalker

BOLO and trilkb, I thank you for the sound advice. I've already got a Moroso CAI and Hooker LT's. I've covered almost all the bolt-ons except throttle body and intake mani.

Puck, you've made more sense than almost anyone that's posted so far. I guess I am doing this backwards, maybe a set of heads should be in order first. I have no plans to touch the bottom end, but I do think that this cam with a good set of heads down the road will be a nice simple set up. Should make solid numbers and decent drivability, too.

We'll see what happens guys, the advice is appreciated though. I can be a hard headed person sometimes.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You only like their advise because they are supporting your ignorance.

Go with the one one size smaller and consider ordering it on a 110LSA.

huge duration and wide LSA is the answer to manners not power and if you need the wide LSA to improve manners you just choose to much duration to start with.

If you had a stroker I would say it was a good choice, but you don't, so it isn't.

1963SS

I wasn't trying to give you a hard time about your choice but for stock heads that 60122 is a lot of cam. The stock heads flow a bit over 200 CFM and that's not a whole bunch. That cam will work best above 4000 RPM and your stock heads will stop flowing well about 5200 RPM. That's not a very usable powerband.

Stock LT1 heads will flow about 206CFM at .500 and most flow benches show that they flow less than 200 CFM at .600 lift. Optimal lift for stock heads is probably around .500. Any more and your losing power.

The other thing to remember is that an engine cannot start compressing the intake charge until the intake valve is fully closed. (Or very close to it). The 60122 doesn't close that valve until 41.5 degrees after bottom dead center.

As a comparison the 60120 closes the valve at 31.5 degrees ABDC. The valve closes 10 degrees earlier on the smaller cam and that will raise your dynamic compression ratio and probably increase performance. The 60120 also has a lift that is closer to ideal for the stock heads. Remember the flow numbers at .500 are better than at .600.

So with a smaller cam you'll have more compression and better flow from your heads. That will equal a power increase. That's all I was trying to say. If you were to talk to Comp, Lunati, Bullet or any other cam grinder I'd bet that they would tell you that the number one mistake made by most folks is that they over cam their engine. I've been there, done that and have the refrigerator magnet and the t-shirt to prove it. I just wanted to make you aware of the mistakes that I've made in the past that caused dissatisfaction with an engine.

tbag_skywalker

Its pretty clear you know your stuff, and if I came off as a smartass earlier then I'm sorry about that.

Just curious, how would this cam work with a good set of higher flowing heads? I'm really thinking about getting the cam and just holding on to it until I get heads and do everything at once. If its gonna be such overkill that I would need to bore and stroke the engine, on top of buying better heads to get this cam to its potential than I won't bother with it.

And in all honestly, if I was certain about never touching the stock heads, than I would definitely just buy the 60120 or 60121 and be done with it. I'm really not trying to argue with anyone, believe it or not.

And you can just **** off. Don't want, nor do I need your arrogance or "advice."

food nd cars

The only thing I would be worried about is how long your bottom end is going to hold up if your going to have the RPMs way up there all the time.

1963SS

This is one of my favorite off the shelf cams. It is designed by Harold Brookshire and it performs very well under the curve and throughout the powerband. Compared to the Comp XFI280 (another good cam) it is easier on the valve parts and should add up to more reliability with similar power potential. As I said, I've used this cam on three builds and every one was a pleasant surprise. With higher flowing heads it is hard to beat for a fun daily driver that performs as well as it sounds. The potential exists for over 500 horsepower. If you can get it tuned properly there shouldn't be anything wrong with using the stock heads but although you will sound good you're not going to perform as well as you'd think.

You've made a good choice with the Patriot 1501B springs. They will allow you to rev to the cam's potential. It does perform well from 3000 to about 6500 and is a lot of fun.