FAD2BLK93

Hey guys, i am about to do a 503 cam and pac springs. Would like to do an electric pump as well. Came across a CSR pump for 186 bucks, they say 36 gal flow, k also came across a CVR pump for 210 bucks that flows 56 gal. Was wondering if the higher flow would be to much? And does anyone have the CVR pump? I have not heard of this companies pump. Thanks

lt1slowz28

CVR is summits brand(flows ~35 gpm), it flows enough for a street car... though, some people on here are highly against an electric pump I am for it as long as it's used on more or less a street/strip car.



35GPM is fine for my car... also, according to the formula in my sig, you can NEVER have too much flow.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Even the 55gpm pumps flow a lot less than the stocker does at rpm under load where you actually need cooling flow.
The electrics do flow more at idle though where the engine isn't making any heat anyway.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

if you buy the csr, your gonna have to grind 4 tabs down to get it to fit, unless the previous owner already did it.

lt1slowz28

with this being said... unless you are driving around at a constant ~3000 rpms you will be fine... at least in theory.


Here in TX when it was ~100 out and driving in town with a 160* thermostat it would stay right around 170-180... on the highway @ 2400 RPM it would stay rougly 10* warmer...

IronOutlaw

iTrader: (4)

Thats what I thought. Does anyone know how many gallons a stock unit pumps at around 2500 rpms?

lt1slowz28

~ 25-30 something.



it's a pretty linear curve for the flow, at about 10-12 gpm for every 1K rpm ( at least that's what I have been going off of..)

FAD2BLK93

So for a dd and weekend bracket racing the more flow the better? I dont really like the idea of an electric pump...electric parts fail, the extra sequrity of a mechanical pump is great and what it was designed for. But the extra 10 horse would be great also. It would be nice as well to be able to turn on the pump to cool the engine on hot summer bracket racing...damn stuff gets HOT goin rounds. Anyone have any idea how much i will gain doing the cam only change with the 503 cam?

FAD2BLK93

By the way, are there any short pumps that u dont have to cut up the blades to get it in? What is the best shortest pump? And Go.

pillarpod

no, every EWP will require some trimming

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

It's not the blades that have to be cut up, but rather part of the shroud.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

for the Meziere ewp, youll need to trim the fan shroud. On the csr, youll have to grind down 4 tabs on the actuall ewp. Right outside the o-ring iirc. The csr wont require you to trim the fan shroud.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You need to understand the electrics are FREEFLOW rated the flow data we have for the stocker is in the system complete with stat restriction and all and at 4800ish engine rpm it is moving 66gpm.

lt1slowz28 is apparently brighter than average because he actually sees that at 2400rpm cruise the 35gpm electric is already allowing temps to creep up. This is because AS INSTALLED the electrics can not move their rated flow against the restrictions.

Here is a post where someone posted SAE's graph of LT1 pump flow.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/6566221-post63.html
It is in pump rpm and the pump ends up overdriven a bit, a few of us counted teeth and figured it out at one point but end result was 6000 pump rpm was somewhere just a shade over 4800 engine rpm.

Electrics generally cool adequately nothing more, they are not the super cooling mod many retards will tell you they are.

FAD2BLK93

So i guess i will stay with the stock pump. Anyone have an estimate on the 503 cam only change?

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Just to make sure I am clear,m the electrics will help the car get more power to the ground, they free up power by moving less water.

jb442

iTrader: (4)

Electric water pumps free up power because they eliminate a parasitic drag on the engine, not because they move less water than the factory pump.

lt1slowz28

they flow less, regardless...



at idle they flow MORE, and that's what I needed at the time of purchase. granted none of us other than maybe mike are running around at 5000 RPM on the street constantly. depending on which pump you get the cruising flow of the pump may be ~= the stockers flow that has been proven time and time again to be more than ample... it's a give and take, you loose any flow past the free flow rated 30-50 GPM for that same flow at an idle or with the engine off.



if you do a lot of road trips or long street driving with a higher ratio rear end you may or may not end up overheating depending on the condition of the rest of your system... 96Capricemgr feels very strong about the stock unit, with good reason! It's more than anyone will ever need, readily available and doesnt have the tendancy to just die on you without warning.



the only way you gain HP with the electric is that it flows LESS at higher RPM, though in the low RPM(albeit low enough for no one to care) you very well could be losing power...

lt1slowz28

for the reading impaired I drew a pictar of what I believe it to be compared to a stock unit...

1963SS

With all due respect to Dwayne.....I'll say that it doesn't seem to make any difference most of the time. When I took my Impala to St. Louis I did notice that in downtown traffic (trying to find a Hooters) that the car did stay cooler. The temp never crept up like the old pump did. Driving down I-64 I never saw any temp difference and some of that was at sustained triple digit speeds.

From my personal experience (I have the 55 GPM) there's no apparent disadvantage at all and it gives better flow while idling in stop and go traffic. My Impala isn't anywhere near stock either and the electric works just fine.

If you're going to race you can turn on your fans and the pump will run and cool your car down between runs.....with the engine off.

stuart4185

use the stock water pump.

the mechanical pump uses power to turn it, which it gets its power from the engine thru the pulley system.

electric water pumps run off the battery. you take the pump off of the engine pulley system freeing up the lower that was previously used to turn the pump. which is the 10 HP that everyone is referring to.

for a car that only sees drag race / occasional driving/ not far from home in case something goes wrong, yes a electric water pump can work. in the drags, or close to home the getting back to the pits / tow back home isnt too bad. on a car that you cruise with/ drive daily/ stuck in traffic at 5 MPH on 100 degree day trying to have the AC on, you might pucker up a bit as the temps creep up on you. that and one day, the electric motor will just die without any warnings whatsoever, again leaving you stranded on the side of the road. its not an if, its a when.

IMO put the 200 towards something else