Oil Filters with Long Tube Headers
01-25-2012, 09:39 PM
#1
Oil Filters with Long Tube Headers What do you guys run for oil filters with headers? I bought some used Dynatechs off of here and there is no way to get an oil filter on or off with the headers installed.
Joe
Joe
01-25-2012, 09:43 PM
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i guess your gonna have to do a remote mount for the filter. id wrap the lines with header wrap where they get close to the headers. i have hookers and have no issues with this. best of luck
01-25-2012, 10:04 PM
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01-26-2012, 05:11 AM
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StraightTimeStirrups,
I run FLP LT headers -- pretty sure they're identical to the Dynatechs. Arguably the worst headers on the market for oil filter access (and plug access on #5/#6).
You can try to run an oil filter relocation kit if you wish, but I wouldn't recommend it -- you'd likely end up with a hose touching the header collector. I tried it, but it ended up leaking -- perhaps you'd have better luck.
The real fix here is to remove the factory oil cooler. I'm assuming you have one. That involves getting a new lower radiator return hose for a non-oil-cooler equipped vehicle (which connects from the lower-driver's-side radiator to the bottom-driver's-side waterpump fitting). You can then ditch the factory rubber/metal oil cooler lines on that side of the engine. IIRC, the oil cooler simply has a large nut around the center oil filter threads holding it to the block. The coolant lines I believe are held to the cooler housing with one bolt. Might be able to sell it for a good price -- apparently it was a more efficient design than used in later years, and it's discontinued. Don't worry, you won't miss it -- I noticed no difference with it gone, except for a bump in oil pressure (which is good).
After that, you should have room to install/remove the filter -- unless you have an aftermarket oil pan. My canton is flared out along the bottom, so I have even less room. Not sure if the Dynatechs use "leak-proof v-clamps" like the FLPs, but I undo the frontmost v-clamp on the left-bank catalytic converter and push it out of the way. That allows me to lift the filter over the header and down through the outside. You'll spill some oil, but it works. I always punch the bottom of the oil filter with an awl and hammer to let the oil drain so it doesn't make as big of a mess, but of course that's dangerous if the old filter gets stuck. If you can't get an oil filter wrench to work, I just hammer a screwdriver through the entire bottom section of the filter for extra leverage.
HTH
I run FLP LT headers -- pretty sure they're identical to the Dynatechs. Arguably the worst headers on the market for oil filter access (and plug access on #5/#6).
You can try to run an oil filter relocation kit if you wish, but I wouldn't recommend it -- you'd likely end up with a hose touching the header collector. I tried it, but it ended up leaking -- perhaps you'd have better luck.
The real fix here is to remove the factory oil cooler. I'm assuming you have one. That involves getting a new lower radiator return hose for a non-oil-cooler equipped vehicle (which connects from the lower-driver's-side radiator to the bottom-driver's-side waterpump fitting). You can then ditch the factory rubber/metal oil cooler lines on that side of the engine. IIRC, the oil cooler simply has a large nut around the center oil filter threads holding it to the block. The coolant lines I believe are held to the cooler housing with one bolt. Might be able to sell it for a good price -- apparently it was a more efficient design than used in later years, and it's discontinued. Don't worry, you won't miss it -- I noticed no difference with it gone, except for a bump in oil pressure (which is good).
After that, you should have room to install/remove the filter -- unless you have an aftermarket oil pan. My canton is flared out along the bottom, so I have even less room. Not sure if the Dynatechs use "leak-proof v-clamps" like the FLPs, but I undo the frontmost v-clamp on the left-bank catalytic converter and push it out of the way. That allows me to lift the filter over the header and down through the outside. You'll spill some oil, but it works. I always punch the bottom of the oil filter with an awl and hammer to let the oil drain so it doesn't make as big of a mess, but of course that's dangerous if the old filter gets stuck. If you can't get an oil filter wrench to work, I just hammer a screwdriver through the entire bottom section of the filter for extra leverage.
HTH
01-26-2012, 05:34 AM
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To be clear, my previous post only applies to Dynatechs/FLPs and 1992-1994 LT1s with factory-equipped oil coolers (RPO KC4).
I honestly don't know if any other headers necessitate it, and later model years may have had shorter oil cooler housings.
I honestly don't know if any other headers necessitate it, and later model years may have had shorter oil cooler housings.
01-26-2012, 11:02 AM
#13
StraightTimeStirrups,
I run FLP LT headers -- pretty sure they're identical to the Dynatechs. Arguably the worst headers on the market for oil filter access (and plug access on #5/#6).
You can try to run an oil filter relocation kit if you wish, but I wouldn't recommend it -- you'd likely end up with a hose touching the header collector. I tried it, but it ended up leaking -- perhaps you'd have better luck.
The real fix here is to remove the factory oil cooler. I'm assuming you have one. That involves getting a new lower radiator return hose for a non-oil-cooler equipped vehicle (which connects from the lower-driver's-side radiator to the bottom-driver's-side waterpump fitting). You can then ditch the factory rubber/metal oil cooler lines on that side of the engine. IIRC, the oil cooler simply has a large nut around the center oil filter threads holding it to the block. The coolant lines I believe are held to the cooler housing with one bolt. Might be able to sell it for a good price -- apparently it was a more efficient design than used in later years, and it's discontinued. Don't worry, you won't miss it -- I noticed no difference with it gone, except for a bump in oil pressure (which is good).
After that, you should have room to install/remove the filter -- unless you have an aftermarket oil pan. My canton is flared out along the bottom, so I have even less room. Not sure if the Dynatechs use "leak-proof v-clamps" like the FLPs, but I undo the frontmost v-clamp on the left-bank catalytic converter and push it out of the way. That allows me to lift the filter over the header and down through the outside. You'll spill some oil, but it works. I always punch the bottom of the oil filter with an awl and hammer to let the oil drain so it doesn't make as big of a mess, but of course that's dangerous if the old filter gets stuck. If you can't get an oil filter wrench to work, I just hammer a screwdriver through the entire bottom section of the filter for extra leverage.
HTH
I run FLP LT headers -- pretty sure they're identical to the Dynatechs. Arguably the worst headers on the market for oil filter access (and plug access on #5/#6).
You can try to run an oil filter relocation kit if you wish, but I wouldn't recommend it -- you'd likely end up with a hose touching the header collector. I tried it, but it ended up leaking -- perhaps you'd have better luck.
The real fix here is to remove the factory oil cooler. I'm assuming you have one. That involves getting a new lower radiator return hose for a non-oil-cooler equipped vehicle (which connects from the lower-driver's-side radiator to the bottom-driver's-side waterpump fitting). You can then ditch the factory rubber/metal oil cooler lines on that side of the engine. IIRC, the oil cooler simply has a large nut around the center oil filter threads holding it to the block. The coolant lines I believe are held to the cooler housing with one bolt. Might be able to sell it for a good price -- apparently it was a more efficient design than used in later years, and it's discontinued. Don't worry, you won't miss it -- I noticed no difference with it gone, except for a bump in oil pressure (which is good).
After that, you should have room to install/remove the filter -- unless you have an aftermarket oil pan. My canton is flared out along the bottom, so I have even less room. Not sure if the Dynatechs use "leak-proof v-clamps" like the FLPs, but I undo the frontmost v-clamp on the left-bank catalytic converter and push it out of the way. That allows me to lift the filter over the header and down through the outside. You'll spill some oil, but it works. I always punch the bottom of the oil filter with an awl and hammer to let the oil drain so it doesn't make as big of a mess, but of course that's dangerous if the old filter gets stuck. If you can't get an oil filter wrench to work, I just hammer a screwdriver through the entire bottom section of the filter for extra leverage.
HTH
Joe
01-26-2012, 12:26 PM
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Does the stock Fbody oil cooler tuck nice & close to the stock pan? The LT1 from a 95 caddy tucks the filter & cooler lines in close Most S10 swap guys use that one Prolly the same in caprice or any of the other grocery getters lol
01-26-2012, 01:31 PM
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Forgot to mention -- after you remove the oil cooler, there'll be an adapter plate bolted to the block with two bolts/studs. You'll either have to cut those studs down, or buy new bolts, in order for the new oil filter to screw onto the adapter plate / engine block.
Last edited by Alex94TAGT; 01-26-2012 at 01:47 PM.
01-26-2012, 04:01 PM
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I have a car with pacesetter LTs and a car with a set of Hooker LTs, I just order a filter for a 90 Cehvy PU with a 350 and 2wd, its about 2 inches longer than the stock LT1 filter and full width.
