CarolinaCamaro

I replaced the plugs on my 97 lt1 but I bought some accel 8.8mm wires that I want to put on. How hard would this be since I don't have to do the plugs? Should I put the car on a lift or can it be done from the top?

Also, I bought some wire separators but I am not 100% on how to route the new wires and if I can reuse the stock heat shields?

SilverSS07

iTrader: (1)

You will need to get under the car. It's easier if you have headers. Don't forget dielectric grease.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I've got the Moroso Blue Max wires on my car. Obviously an aftermarket wire, but seem to be thicker than an OE wire, but still fit through the OE heat shielding. Due to the heat of the exhaust system nearby, I'd stick with the heatshields wherever possible.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Here's a thread where plug wires just discussed.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ns-am-ws6.html

Those 8.8 accels are going to give you problems with routing.

CarolinaCamaro

Even with 8.8mm aftermarket looms? Any advice on how to make it work?

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

The problem is the passenger side where the wires are routed around the accessory bracket and away from the serpentine belt. I used the factory 7mm wires with stock looms. People make the 8.5 wires work so there must be a way.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

It's a real PITA to do, but if you remove the p/s pump, it gives you a lot more working room, and you can more easily "stuff" the thicker wires into the OE looms.

1963SS

The first thing I take off is the water pump. My hands are just way too big to fit anywhere around there. The 15 minutes it takes to remove the pump saves me a bunch of time.

CarolinaCamaro

how do you get the wire out of the heat shield on the driver's side? Do you have to remove the bracket?

Also, I can't get the two wire loom open on the driver's side any help? The car currently has autolite professional wires

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

Yep you have to unbolt the heat shield to get the wire out. On the plastic wire separators the outer piece has a 'T' shaped end that engages notches in the other piece. I use a 90 deg pick to lift the T section out of the notch. Look close you'll see it.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Not completely necessary to unbolt the sheath unless you need to have everything remain completely authentic. You can press down on the sheath with it still attached tot he block and bend it down enough to get a wire out and put a new one in.

CarolinaCamaro

thanks guys. The 10mm bolt on the driver side heat shield that runs along the head (with the spark plug wire inside) fell and I have not been able to retrieve it. Can someone tell me size of the thread/ length or a part number? thanks

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

oh i remember those stock car days lol........plug wires and plugs suckeddddddddddddddddddddddddddd lol