Head swap power numbers guess?
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Head swap power numbers guess?
Just bought a set of Total Engine Performance 220 CNC Heads what kinda power do you think they will make.. heres link to the heads
http://www.totalengineairflow.com/pr...linder-heads1/
My current setup now is 383, cam,stock head valvetrain upgraded and ported along with intake ported, exhaust, nitrous, you get the picture, but it makes 408rwhp/400rwtq on motor and 544rwhp/610rwtq on a 150 shot.
Any idea what it will make with these new head swap?
http://www.totalengineairflow.com/pr...linder-heads1/
My current setup now is 383, cam,stock head valvetrain upgraded and ported along with intake ported, exhaust, nitrous, you get the picture, but it makes 408rwhp/400rwtq on motor and 544rwhp/610rwtq on a 150 shot.
Any idea what it will make with these new head swap?
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How much are your current heads ported? Hard to say what it will make when you give us such vague mods as "cam". The cam is a HUGE part of what makes the power on a motor...then we have no clue what exhaust you have ot how much your intake was ported, what throttle body, what tune, and what the heads are ported to.
If you have mildly ported heads and you are planning on using the same cam you have in there now, you may HURT yourself more than HELP yourself. If your heads ate 205cc right now and you throw on a set of 220's, your cam might not be maximizing what those heads can do...On top of that, a 383 should be putting out WAY more than 408 to be honest....I was an N/A 355 with LE2 Heads and bolt-ons and a baby cam and I made 411 RWHP with 392 RWTQ. Those seem like off numbers for a 383 which COULD be the heads robbing it of power.
Give us more detail, what are your current heads?
Current Cam Specs?
What Exhaust, Intake and Throttle Body?
How much is the Intake Manifold ported?
If you have mildly ported heads and you are planning on using the same cam you have in there now, you may HURT yourself more than HELP yourself. If your heads ate 205cc right now and you throw on a set of 220's, your cam might not be maximizing what those heads can do...On top of that, a 383 should be putting out WAY more than 408 to be honest....I was an N/A 355 with LE2 Heads and bolt-ons and a baby cam and I made 411 RWHP with 392 RWTQ. Those seem like off numbers for a 383 which COULD be the heads robbing it of power.
Give us more detail, what are your current heads?
Current Cam Specs?
What Exhaust, Intake and Throttle Body?
How much is the Intake Manifold ported?
#3
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Yea i was tired when i posted that didnt feel like typing...
Joe Stewart in Moorseville, NC did the machine work
383 Stroker Kit Forged
Forged Eagle Crank and Eagle H Beam Connecting Rods
Forged SRP Flat Top Pistons
10:1 Compression
Engine Work was done by Tick Performance in Moorseville, NC.
Gm Lt1 Heads& Intake Machine work and ported heads done by Jonathan
Comp 987 valve spring set
Comp 987 Titanium Retainers
Comp Locks
Comp Spring Seats
Pro Comp 1:6 Rocker arm set
"R" Series Lifters
GM Extreme Duty timing chain
7.200" Hardened Chromemoly pushrods
Ford Motorsport SVO 30lb injectors
Comp Cam 230/236 Cam
LS1 24X EFI Connection
LS1 Coil Packs
LS1 ECU and Wiring Harness
TPIS 58MM throttle body
ATI Super Damper
ARP Head bolt kit
MSD Digital Window Switch
MSD6AL BOX
CSR Billet Aluminum Electric Water Pump
ILE A/C Delete Pulley
Racetronix Fuel Pump Kit
Transmission
T-56
Tick Performance Stage 2 Rebuild Kit
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Spec Stage 3 Clutch
Spec Billet Steel Flywheel
Exhaust
Kooks Long Tube Headers 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 with 3" Collector
Kooks Custom 3.5 Y-Pipe
Borla Stainless Steel Catback
DMH Electric cutout on catback
2 DMH Electric Cutouts on Kooks Y-Pipe
Rear End
Moser 9" Rear End Assembly
4:11 Gears
Detroit True Trac wth 31 Spl Axles
LCA Relocation Brackets
Spohn Sway Bar Installion Kit
4 Channel ABS
Suspension/Chasis
Spohn Lower control arms tubular adjustable
Spohn Panhard Bar tubular adjustable
Spohn tubular adjustable torque arm-Long tube headers/ypipe-front& rear saftey loops
Spohn weld-in sub frame connectors
Eibach Pro lowering springs(front & rear)
Koni Sport "Yellow" Front & Rear shocks Adjustable
Spohn Front Sway bar
Spohn Shock tower brace
Other stuff
Brand X LT EFI Single Nozzle
Brand X Automatic Bottle Heater
LT1 Microswith and Bracket
Nitrous Outlet .125 Nitrous Solenoid
Nitrous Outlet .187 Fuel Solenoid
Brand X Purge Kit
Nitrous Outlet 93-02 F-Body Ashtray 4 Switch Panel
NOS Remote Bottle Opener
860 Bottle Mount Bracket
Auto Meter Ultra Lite Digital Nitrous Pressure Gauge
Auto Meter Ultra Lite Digital Fuel Pressure Gauge
Auto Meter Ultra Lite Digital Street Wideband
SLP Line Lock
Raptor Performance Mini Shift Light
Redtop battery
Tuff Stuff 200 Amp Alternator
Z06 Rims with 275/18 Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
Joe Stewart in Moorseville, NC did the machine work
383 Stroker Kit Forged
Forged Eagle Crank and Eagle H Beam Connecting Rods
Forged SRP Flat Top Pistons
10:1 Compression
Engine Work was done by Tick Performance in Moorseville, NC.
Gm Lt1 Heads& Intake Machine work and ported heads done by Jonathan
Comp 987 valve spring set
Comp 987 Titanium Retainers
Comp Locks
Comp Spring Seats
Pro Comp 1:6 Rocker arm set
"R" Series Lifters
GM Extreme Duty timing chain
7.200" Hardened Chromemoly pushrods
Ford Motorsport SVO 30lb injectors
Comp Cam 230/236 Cam
LS1 24X EFI Connection
LS1 Coil Packs
LS1 ECU and Wiring Harness
TPIS 58MM throttle body
ATI Super Damper
ARP Head bolt kit
MSD Digital Window Switch
MSD6AL BOX
CSR Billet Aluminum Electric Water Pump
ILE A/C Delete Pulley
Racetronix Fuel Pump Kit
Transmission
T-56
Tick Performance Stage 2 Rebuild Kit
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Spec Stage 3 Clutch
Spec Billet Steel Flywheel
Exhaust
Kooks Long Tube Headers 1 3/4 to 1 7/8 with 3" Collector
Kooks Custom 3.5 Y-Pipe
Borla Stainless Steel Catback
DMH Electric cutout on catback
2 DMH Electric Cutouts on Kooks Y-Pipe
Rear End
Moser 9" Rear End Assembly
4:11 Gears
Detroit True Trac wth 31 Spl Axles
LCA Relocation Brackets
Spohn Sway Bar Installion Kit
4 Channel ABS
Suspension/Chasis
Spohn Lower control arms tubular adjustable
Spohn Panhard Bar tubular adjustable
Spohn tubular adjustable torque arm-Long tube headers/ypipe-front& rear saftey loops
Spohn weld-in sub frame connectors
Eibach Pro lowering springs(front & rear)
Koni Sport "Yellow" Front & Rear shocks Adjustable
Spohn Front Sway bar
Spohn Shock tower brace
Other stuff
Brand X LT EFI Single Nozzle
Brand X Automatic Bottle Heater
LT1 Microswith and Bracket
Nitrous Outlet .125 Nitrous Solenoid
Nitrous Outlet .187 Fuel Solenoid
Brand X Purge Kit
Nitrous Outlet 93-02 F-Body Ashtray 4 Switch Panel
NOS Remote Bottle Opener
860 Bottle Mount Bracket
Auto Meter Ultra Lite Digital Nitrous Pressure Gauge
Auto Meter Ultra Lite Digital Fuel Pressure Gauge
Auto Meter Ultra Lite Digital Street Wideband
SLP Line Lock
Raptor Performance Mini Shift Light
Redtop battery
Tuff Stuff 200 Amp Alternator
Z06 Rims with 275/18 Nitto NT555R Drag Radials
How much are your current heads ported? Hard to say what it will make when you give us such vague mods as "cam". The cam is a HUGE part of what makes the power on a motor...then we have no clue what exhaust you have ot how much your intake was ported, what throttle body, what tune, and what the heads are ported to.
If you have mildly ported heads and you are planning on using the same cam you have in there now, you may HURT yourself more than HELP yourself. If your heads ate 205cc right now and you throw on a set of 220's, your cam might not be maximizing what those heads can do...On top of that, a 383 should be putting out WAY more than 408 to be honest....I was an N/A 355 with LE2 Heads and bolt-ons and a baby cam and I made 411 RWHP with 392 RWTQ. Those seem like off numbers for a 383 which COULD be the heads robbing it of power.
Give us more detail, what are your current heads?
Current Cam Specs?
What Exhaust, Intake and Throttle Body?
How much is the Intake Manifold ported?
If you have mildly ported heads and you are planning on using the same cam you have in there now, you may HURT yourself more than HELP yourself. If your heads ate 205cc right now and you throw on a set of 220's, your cam might not be maximizing what those heads can do...On top of that, a 383 should be putting out WAY more than 408 to be honest....I was an N/A 355 with LE2 Heads and bolt-ons and a baby cam and I made 411 RWHP with 392 RWTQ. Those seem like off numbers for a 383 which COULD be the heads robbing it of power.
Give us more detail, what are your current heads?
Current Cam Specs?
What Exhaust, Intake and Throttle Body?
How much is the Intake Manifold ported?
Last edited by lt4388stroker; 02-22-2012 at 02:44 PM.
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#8
I think what d-money was hinting at is that you could get away with a bit more compression. Get the smallest CC size they offer with those heads you are looking at and slap some thin head gaskets on it too, if you are really at 10:1 currently with stock casting heads (chambers opened up a bunch?).
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They were just mildy ported nothing major...yea im sure i def could but its on a safe tune and i really didnt trust the stock gm ones anyways, I may have it tweaked a bit now that im gettin these new heads
I think what d-money was hinting at is that you could get away with a bit more compression. Get the smallest CC size they offer with those heads you are looking at and slap some thin head gaskets on it too, if you are really at 10:1 currently with stock casting heads (chambers opened up a bunch?).
#10
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My point was that a 10:1 NA build isn't "safe", it would be other than intelligent. I really think you are mistaken especially since it says flat top pistons.
Low 11s would be "safe" 11.5-12.5 is common on street pump gas builds. Hell boost LT1 builds are usually mid 9s for compression.
The comment about iron heads was assuming that just about everyone knows aluminums heads tolerate more compression so if the b-body iron head motor was fine with 10:1 on 87 octane an aluminum head will take a LOT more on 93 octane
Low 11s would be "safe" 11.5-12.5 is common on street pump gas builds. Hell boost LT1 builds are usually mid 9s for compression.
The comment about iron heads was assuming that just about everyone knows aluminums heads tolerate more compression so if the b-body iron head motor was fine with 10:1 on 87 octane an aluminum head will take a LOT more on 93 octane
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10 to 13 is a safe compression ratio
My point was that a 10:1 NA build isn't "safe", it would be other than intelligent. I really think you are mistaken especially since it says flat top pistons.
Low 11s would be "safe" 11.5-12.5 is common on street pump gas builds. Hell boost LT1 builds are usually mid 9s for compression.
The comment about iron heads was assuming that just about everyone knows aluminums heads tolerate more compression so if the b-body iron head motor was fine with 10:1 on 87 octane an aluminum head will take a LOT more on 93 octane
Low 11s would be "safe" 11.5-12.5 is common on street pump gas builds. Hell boost LT1 builds are usually mid 9s for compression.
The comment about iron heads was assuming that just about everyone knows aluminums heads tolerate more compression so if the b-body iron head motor was fine with 10:1 on 87 octane an aluminum head will take a LOT more on 93 octane
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What head gaskets are you using? What is the thickness? What cc are your chambers on your heads? Your cylinders are bored .030 correct? Was the block decked at all when you had it machined? You didn't specify but I assume your pistons are indeed 5cc Flat Tops correct? What length rods did you end up using?
Like these guys are saying, 10:1 is SUPER low for an N/A LT1, and that could be why you are showing such incredibly low numbers on the dyno for a 383 Stroker. Also what is the Lift and LSA on that cam?? Also have you ran it at the track at all or gotten on it much? Does it bog or seem to be weak on the bottom end? Do you have a dyno chart?
Sorry for all the questions, but it seems to me like something is really wrong here and I think you need to focus on that before you buy new heads...You are running almost the same amount of compression as some F/I LT1's run, and on an N/A motor, that is not a good thing whether you are spraying or not.
Like these guys are saying, 10:1 is SUPER low for an N/A LT1, and that could be why you are showing such incredibly low numbers on the dyno for a 383 Stroker. Also what is the Lift and LSA on that cam?? Also have you ran it at the track at all or gotten on it much? Does it bog or seem to be weak on the bottom end? Do you have a dyno chart?
Sorry for all the questions, but it seems to me like something is really wrong here and I think you need to focus on that before you buy new heads...You are running almost the same amount of compression as some F/I LT1's run, and on an N/A motor, that is not a good thing whether you are spraying or not.
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Yes 408rwhp is lower than it could be for a stroker BUT a few guys getting up into the 440-460 ranges does not mean every stroker will. There are a lot of stokers out there than don't even come close to 400rwhp. It shouldn't happen but it does much more often than they go over it.
I think the guy just doesn't know what he actually has flat top and 10:1 just don't go together unless he has some ancient 75cc chamber AFRs or something but that is not what he said, it says LT1 heads which would leave us assume ported stock castings.
If it genuinely is that low , the trickflows could probably lower it a little more and it would be a good candidate for boost.
I think the guy just doesn't know what he actually has flat top and 10:1 just don't go together unless he has some ancient 75cc chamber AFRs or something but that is not what he said, it says LT1 heads which would leave us assume ported stock castings.
If it genuinely is that low , the trickflows could probably lower it a little more and it would be a good candidate for boost.