Low Oil Pressure After Seafoam?
04-17-2012, 02:06 PM
#1
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Low Oil Pressure After Seafoam? I seafoamed my TA this morning following this guide. http://www.lt1engines.com/tech/how-t...arbon-buildup/ I have used it before but never added half a can to my oil. Well I did this time and after driving about 10 miles my oil pressure is sitting at about 20 psi in park and about 10psi in drive. Did the seafoam just break up all the sludge and clog the oil filter/pickup?
04-17-2012, 02:18 PM
#2
I seafoamed my TA this morning following this guide. http://www.lt1engines.com/tech/how-t...arbon-buildup/ I have used it before but never added half a can to my oil. Well I did this time and after driving about 10 miles my oil pressure is sitting at about 20 psi in park and about 10psi in drive. Did the seafoam just break up all the sludge and clog the oil filter/pickup?
04-17-2012, 02:52 PM
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After I filled the gas tank, started the car and the oil psi dropped to just above 0. Check Gauges light came on and the car started to stumble. Gave it a little gas and it went back up to 10 psi. Should I change the oil now?
04-17-2012, 02:58 PM
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i would suggest after using sea foam in the oil to run for about 30 minutes and then change the oil. the sea foam will water down the oils thickness.
be safe, dont hammer on it, run for 30 then drain and refill.
be safe, dont hammer on it, run for 30 then drain and refill.
04-17-2012, 03:07 PM
#7
This is my personal two cents.
Nothing goes in the motor but oil, PERIOD END OF STORY. This includes cleaners, additives, whatever. Depending on the "health" of the main, rod and cam bearings and journals, you roll the dice of possibly wiping them out and opening up bearing clearances which would result in lower oil pressure and put you a big step closer to having to pull the motor for a rebuild. In others words, get that **** out now.
The best way to cleanse the inside of a dirty motor, is to do multiple and frequent oil changes and let the new oil do the work as opposed to foreign chemicals. I dont care what Seafoam or whoever says about using chemicals in the order to clean motors, DONT DO IT.
I actually do like Seafoam put only down the intake in proper volumes in order to clean the valves, combustion chambers and piston tops. Even after I do this, I always immediately change the oil cause some of it may leak past the rings and into the oil.
I really hope you have not wiped out your bearings. but in the unfortunate case that you might have, be prepared for a possible rebuild.
Nothing goes in the motor but oil, PERIOD END OF STORY. This includes cleaners, additives, whatever. Depending on the "health" of the main, rod and cam bearings and journals, you roll the dice of possibly wiping them out and opening up bearing clearances which would result in lower oil pressure and put you a big step closer to having to pull the motor for a rebuild. In others words, get that **** out now.
The best way to cleanse the inside of a dirty motor, is to do multiple and frequent oil changes and let the new oil do the work as opposed to foreign chemicals. I dont care what Seafoam or whoever says about using chemicals in the order to clean motors, DONT DO IT.
I actually do like Seafoam put only down the intake in proper volumes in order to clean the valves, combustion chambers and piston tops. Even after I do this, I always immediately change the oil cause some of it may leak past the rings and into the oil.
I really hope you have not wiped out your bearings. but in the unfortunate case that you might have, be prepared for a possible rebuild.
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04-17-2012, 03:30 PM
#10
Seafoam is Naptha(paint thinner) light oil, alcohol and water, sound like something you want to drive around with in the crankcase?
Far as tranny fluid. It is an old MYTH that tranny fluid has a lot of detergents in it. Stop and think about it though, the tranny is not ingesting large volumes of outside air, it is not burning fuel making "ash" or carbon or anything else that would require a lot of detergent. IF it actually did any cleaning it did so by being thin and if someone wanted to try such a thing which I wouldn't a short interval of the now readily available 5w-20 oils would probably be safe and more effective since it does have proper detergent levesl for motor oil.
That said if you really think you need more detergent then try a diesel rated oil, most are gas engine rated too by API standards and they do have extra detergent properties and many are available in 10w-30 which is an approved weight if you look in your owner's manual.
In the past when I have run Rotella in my high mileage stock LT1s they got a little rattly like valvetrain noise after 1000 or so miles and an oil filter change quieted it down for a bit. Not scientific but I think the cleaning was filling and restricting the filter hence the valvetrain noise.
If you really want to use an additive AutoRX is genuinely good stuff. I have taken apart engines after running it and the results are surprising. Inside of the timing cover on one had hardly any brown varnish left even, it was cleaned to bare aluminum. This is NOT a solvent, it is esters.
Far as tranny fluid. It is an old MYTH that tranny fluid has a lot of detergents in it. Stop and think about it though, the tranny is not ingesting large volumes of outside air, it is not burning fuel making "ash" or carbon or anything else that would require a lot of detergent. IF it actually did any cleaning it did so by being thin and if someone wanted to try such a thing which I wouldn't a short interval of the now readily available 5w-20 oils would probably be safe and more effective since it does have proper detergent levesl for motor oil.
That said if you really think you need more detergent then try a diesel rated oil, most are gas engine rated too by API standards and they do have extra detergent properties and many are available in 10w-30 which is an approved weight if you look in your owner's manual.
In the past when I have run Rotella in my high mileage stock LT1s they got a little rattly like valvetrain noise after 1000 or so miles and an oil filter change quieted it down for a bit. Not scientific but I think the cleaning was filling and restricting the filter hence the valvetrain noise.
If you really want to use an additive AutoRX is genuinely good stuff. I have taken apart engines after running it and the results are surprising. Inside of the timing cover on one had hardly any brown varnish left even, it was cleaned to bare aluminum. This is NOT a solvent, it is esters.
04-17-2012, 04:58 PM
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Alright I changed the oil with some cheap mobile 10w-40 and an stp filter. Pressure is back up. Haven't taken it for a test drive yet, just let it idle in the driveway for 20 mins. When I drained the oil it looked pretty clear at first, then once the end was close it turned BLACK. Oil in the oil filter was BLACK too. Hope this helps, I'll change it again in about 200 miles.
04-17-2012, 06:31 PM
#15
NO SEAFOAM IN OIL! I will suggest Casite and Lucas products. They work for me and a lot of other people. But never put anything in your oil that will thin it. Seafoam in the crankcase is like asking for a spun bearing.
Also, since you took advice from that page, I'll go ahead and tell you, putting Seafoam in through the brake booster hose to try and clean your top end is a waste of a good fuel system cleaner b/c it's only gonna clean the back 2 cylinders b/c it's too heavy to get to the other once. MCCC is what you want for that.
Also, since you took advice from that page, I'll go ahead and tell you, putting Seafoam in through the brake booster hose to try and clean your top end is a waste of a good fuel system cleaner b/c it's only gonna clean the back 2 cylinders b/c it's too heavy to get to the other once. MCCC is what you want for that.
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chumbini (07-30-2020)
04-17-2012, 06:58 PM
#16
If you look at the owner's manual 10w-30 is OK above 0F at least in the b-body manual I see no reason for a difference in the f-body.
Far as 10w-30 or 5w-30 it is a MYTH that 10w-30 is thicker, it can be thinner at operating temps.
Far as 10w-40, the LT1 sent overseas got a 15w-40 recommendation for some areas, yes places where it can be quite warm during the day BUT also quite cool at night. I wouldn't worry about the drive gear unless using a HV pump or 20w-50 on the street I know guys race with it.
Far as 10w-30 or 5w-30 it is a MYTH that 10w-30 is thicker, it can be thinner at operating temps.
Far as 10w-40, the LT1 sent overseas got a 15w-40 recommendation for some areas, yes places where it can be quite warm during the day BUT also quite cool at night. I wouldn't worry about the drive gear unless using a HV pump or 20w-50 on the street I know guys race with it.
04-17-2012, 07:08 PM
#17
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I've ran 10w-30 for the past 10 yrs I've owned the car. I put the 40 in because that's all the parts store had in the mobile oil that I bought. Thought it can't hurt since I'm only going to run it for 200 miles.
04-17-2012, 07:50 PM
#18
If you guys are really worried about cleaning chambers, there is a great way to do it if you can moderate yourself. Take a spray bottle and fill it with water...tap will do...Pull the intake off the throttle body...do NOT put the water through the MAF!! Hold the throttle open a little (1500-1800 will do just fine). Spray in the water a little at a time. The engine will stumble slightly, but keep the rpm up and you'll be fine. If you can do it in moderation you will not hydro-lock the engine. If you want proof, look at an engine that blew a head gasket. Look at the cylinder(s) that ingest water. The piston crown will be perfectly clean compared to good cylinders that have carbon built up. FWIW the carbon build up raises your compression ratio slightly due to taking up combustion space, but also increases the knock risk because the carbon could light before the flame causing the knock...I say use water and then change your oil...besides the water is free...
04-17-2012, 08:18 PM
#20
If you guys are really worried about cleaning chambers, there is a great way to do it if you can moderate yourself. Take a spray bottle and fill it with water...tap will do...Pull the intake off the throttle body...do NOT put the water through the MAF!! Hold the throttle open a little (1500-1800 will do just fine). Spray in the water a little at a time. The engine will stumble slightly, but keep the rpm up and you'll be fine. If you can do it in moderation you will not hydro-lock the engine. If you want proof, look at an engine that blew a head gasket. Look at the cylinder(s) that ingest water. The piston crown will be perfectly clean compared to good cylinders that have carbon built up. FWIW the carbon build up raises your compression ratio slightly due to taking up combustion space, but also increases the knock risk because the carbon could light before the flame causing the knock...I say use water and then change your oil...besides the water is free...