SilverSS07

iTrader: (1)

I was finally getting to put on my Strano's and Bilstein's and all was going well for the first 30 seconds until the impact wouldn't break loose a lugnut. I got out the breaker bar and apparantly stripped off the splines on the wheel stud. So the wheel is still on and I can't get the damn lugnut off. I tried chiseling, drilling, etc. but didn't really make much progress so I'm just going to pull the axle. I don't know if the axle itself is stripped or just the wheel stud. If the axle is stripped would it be ok to put a new stud in and tack weld it into place? Or are there any other better alternatives?

DisasterFormula

iTrader: (1)

Hercules will save us! lol Did you loctite your lug nuts or something? Crazy man.

1994_383_Z28

iTrader: (1)

Your best bet is to take it to a shop, and have them use their impact gun to break the lug nut loose. Most likely if it's on as tight as you say, it will break the wheel stud. No biggie. I've broken 100 wheel studs. It cost $4. And 15 minutes of your time. If you can handle the install of shocks/springs, wheels studs will be a cake walk. Take off the wheel, take of the caliper/caliper bracket, take off the rotor, hammer out broken/stripped wheel stud, place new one in from behind, take an onen ended lug nut you don't care about ruining, and tighten all the wy down to pull the new wheel stud through. Then re-assemble.

Hope it helps.

chasgiv3

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure you understand what he's stating. He stated that his lugnut just spins now since he thinks it stripped the splines.

Here's what I would do. I would take a dremel and carefully use a cut off wheel and cut directly into the nut perpendicular to the wheel. This will allow the nut to be cutoff and then the wheel to be released.

Now back to the OP question about the hub being stripped. Would it be ok to tack weld it? I don't see an issue with tack welding it at all. However keep in mind that if the weld breaks you're back in the same boat. For a permanent fix I would re-weld it and drill it out to the appropriate size. Then you should be good to go.

SilverSS07

iTrader: (1)

Yes I've replaced wheel studs before and it's no problem. As chasgiv3 said it's the splines on the wheel stud that are stripped; that hold the stud tight in the axle. The lugnut is still on the stud tight and the stud just spins. Apparantly whoever put the wheels last time cross threaded the crap out of it. I already removed the caliper and tried drilling it out from the back but there really isn't enough room with the wheel and all in the way. I can't cut the lugnut because it's still recessed in the wheel; there's not even enough room to use an impact 1/2" drive socket. I wish I could just break the stud- would be a lot easier lol. Hopefully I have time to pull the axle tomorrow and see what kind of shape it's in. Plenty of room to hit it with the angle grinder then.

Jr.Samples

Yup. Pull the axel lay the wheel face down and you should be able to drill out the stud from the back.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

ARP wheel studs have a slightly bigger knurled end that's driven into the axle flange. I know it was pretty tough to pound them with the axles removed. You could tack weld the stock replacement stud back in or try a stud with a larger dia knurled area. Most wheel studs listed in on-line catalogs have the dimensions listed.

Vexzer

iTrader: (1)

Getting it apart will be the hard part. Prolly no issues just replacing the stud after you get it apart.
Gonna be a real pain with the brake backing plate, bearing retainer & parking brake cable & crap. If I remember right, all that stuff is in the way. Doubt if you could drill it out from the front side though. Maybe you'll get lucky and can get a drill bit onto the back of the stud. Just don't drill into the flange.

Jr.Samples

If you have an air chisel that would work great on the back of the stud. The downside of removing the axel of course is dealing with the gear oil mess. 8 mm bolt and C clip comes right out. The brakes are a couple bolts to take the calipar off. Once you get the back plate of the stud off you can take a punch or something and drive the stud forward towards the stripped lug.

I really do not this some of these guys understand what you have and keep talking about tack welding the wheel stud back on? Not sure on that one. If the lug is stripped on the stud as you say and will not come off this is more than likely your best option.

Good luck

SilverSS07

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. Fixed it today. The splines were completely gone on the stud but the axle seemed fine. New stud is in good and tight so I didn't tack it in place. I needed to change the gear oil anyway so wasn't too big of a deal. I'll post a pic tomorrow.

Vexzer

iTrader: (1)

Oops, keep forgetting mine is a 12-bolt -not stock [no C clips].
Glad you got it fixed OP.