shix

Hey guys, I recently lost oil pressure and am going to be starting to gather info on a solid build. I am just looking for suggestions on what you all think would be good for a everyday driver that may see some track time. The car had 215000 miles on it and I have no idea what was done to the engine so I don't know if anything is worth reusing. So if i had to start over what crank, rods, pistons, and cam would you recommend?

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

heres one of my street performance engines....id reccomend somthing along the lines of this......

SCAT 9000 Cast Crankshaft LT1 3.480” Stroke 1-Piece Seal
SCAT Forged 4340 5.700” I-Beam Connecting Rod w/ ARP 8740 3/8” Bolt
Wiseco Pro-Tru Forged Piston 4.030”B x 3.48”S x 5.700”R +4cc 2 Valve Reliefs, 1/16”,1/16”,3/16” Ring Set
Clevite P-Series Rod Bearing
Clevite P-Series STD Main Bearings
Dura-bond Performance Cam Bearings
Melling STD Volume, STD Pressure Oil Pump
ARP Hardened Oil Pump Drive Shaft
ARP Hardened Oil Pump Stud Kit
Fel-Pro 1 Piece Rear Main Seal Kit
Fel-Pro 1 Piece Oil Pan Gasket Kit
Melling Oil Pump Pick-up 3/4”
Stock GM LT-1 Oil Pan
Fel Pro Head Gaskets
ARP Head Bolts
LS7 Lifters
GM Seasoned 2 Bolt LT1 Block

AI Cam Kit
• Ai Billet Steel LTx Camshaft 226/234 112 LSA
• Performance Springs Inc. Max Life Beehive Springs
• Comp Cams Beehive Spring Steel Retainers
• Machined & Hardened Steel Locks / Keepers
• Comp Cams Hardened Steel Spring Locators
• OEM Quality Steel Jacketed Viton Seals
• ARP 7/16" Pro Series Rocker Studs
• Comp Cams 1605 Ultra Pro-Mag Rocker Arms - 1.6 Ratio
• Ai Hardened & Black Oxide Steel Guide Plates
• Ai 4130 One Piece Chrome Moly Hardened Pushrods 5/16" x 7.XX" .080" Wall
• Fel-Pro Gasket Kit - Timing Cover gasket, Water Pump gaskets, and Crank/Opti/Pump drive seals
• Fel-Pro 1284 Intake Manifold Gaskets w/RTV

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

my dd setup is very close to that....stk crank, forged I beams, forged speed pro slug, arp head bolts, melling 10554xx HV oil pump, canton 7qt pan, splayed main caps, LE 226/234 565/565 on 111. 11.6.1 comp, 3.73 out back. bolts ons


car drives great. lil cam lope. my motor is built for a 200 hit tho.

EliteCamaro94

how much will that list set someone back price wise

94LT1TA6spd

^^^ I'm guessing a lot lol

bowtienut

iTrader: (1)

Wow.....hard to believe nobody has poo-poo'd all over that cast crank recommendation, Mike! Why wouldn't the first choice be to go with the reconditioned stock crank if staying with a stock stroke? You're one of the few that could get by with saying "cast crank" without being lynched - lol!
But I like every other part in that build list

F0x Slaughter

Because its not a Eagle cast crank, I'm guessing.

Gunslinger09

For a DD just tear it down have basic machine work done, reuse the stock rods and crank and order a master rebuild kit with pistons. Pick a mild cam and springs, and have your machine shop do a valve job on the heads with basic porting. Re-assemble install and install and enjoy.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

last one i sold with that setup went out the door for $4450 i belive.....thats ready to run just needed an intake manifold waterpump and accessories.......i may not be the cheapest around but the machine work and build quality is second to none....i pride myself on quality rather than quantity and the dollar in my pocket....i mainly do this because i enjoy doing it not for the $$....i currently have just shy of 20 motors running around NA,blower,turbo and Nitrous... mostly locally (some over 6 years old) and currently I have a ZERO failure rate

haha well the OP said "NO" stock parts left good lol.....that scat 9000 series cast crank is actually a decent piece....unlike the eagle paperweights lol its the only cast crank ill run next to GM...and its a 450 savings over a budget forged piece......in a motor that makes under 500fly theres no issue at all with it......



keep in mind though.....by no means am i saying eagle cast cranks are a quality piece but i do see motors running with them ok......alot can contribute to breaking a cast crank.....such as balancing, bob weight, detination, etc....alot of these stories you hear that infortmation is missing.......takes two to tango sometimes

F0x Slaughter

Eh either way when I stroke I am going with a Callie's forged.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

personal preference.......if your running a 450rwhp 6500rpm motor its overkill unless its a compstar crank......no need for a dragonslayer or better........i run a modified callies magnum in mine but then again im well north of 450hp and spin 8krpm plus

F0x Slaughter

There is plans in the works that would require a Dragonslayer.

shix

so i tore the engine down today. All the bearings have some pretty noticeable wear. I'm gonna post up some pics so you guys can tell me what you think about it all. I think everything is stock inside the engine but I am not sure as this is my first LT1. The car made 301 rwhp 2 years ago on a dynojet and was supposedly running 13.0's with 2 gear banging the rev limiter before I bought it. It was stout but i want more out of it

F0x Slaughter

Hows your oil pressure?

shix

zero now haha It was at 0 at hot idle but normal above 2500 rpms. Am I correct in thinking the stock rods are not able to be re sized since they are powdered metal and have cracked caps?

F0x Slaughter

Well theres why you had wear on the bearings.

You can't reuse a rod with a cracked cap.

shix

no the way the rods are made they crack the cap off of the rod. I believe the reason you cannot resize a cracked cap rod is because the parting surfaces match up a certain and you can not accurately machine it. I am not sure about this so hopefully someone can chime in.
Edit: I may just be interpreting what you said the wrong way.

F0x Slaughter

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-cap-rods.html

I thought you meant they literally have a crack in them haha.

shix

yeah i wasn't very clear. I think I might as well get new rods, mine are orangish colored and you can see where the bearings transferred material to them, as well as the numbers and letters from the bearings.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

you can machine them once....iirc you can take about .002 off the housing and clevite makes a bigger bearing to take up the space........personally look at it this way...............your looking at prob 125 to size them and refinish them then another 85 for a decent set of rod bolts...................for about 275 you can get a scat I beam with the same rod bolt material and a cap screw instead of a stud.....................its a no brainer