Valkyn

iTrader: (8)

Im sick of my car leaving a big oil spot anywhere I park it, so I have the oil pan and timing cover off and a set of new felpro gaskets for each. Is there any trick to installing these so they wont leak? I installed a new pan gasket several years ago (not a felpro) and put RTV on either side of it in hopes of getting a better seal but it still leaked. Felpro says to install the gaskets dry with no rtv and to make sure the mating surfaces are clean. Is this my best bet?

ARP makes a bolt kit for the oil pan, would a kit made for SBC with 1 piece rubber gasket work on the LT1?

Camaro350Z28

iTrader: (6)

weld them on

Camaro350Z28

iTrader: (6)

ok serious note just gotta replace gaskets and personally id use the right stuff gasket maker for the intake. stuff works great and i actually dont leave any drips. 98k on the clock and shes nice and clean. but as long as ive done the work myself i dont have leaks for quite awhile.. and when i do i reseal

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I've always put the oil pan gasket on dry - no RTV - with zero leaks for 8 years. This of course after making sure the sealing surfaces and new gaskets are DEAD NUTS clean. Don't overtighten the pan bolts, either.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Dry oil pan gasket, dry timing cover gasket, right stuff at the corners. Right stuff on the intake.

Proper torque and tightening sequence is important on the pan. Zero leaks on mine this way.

whytryz28

iTrader: (28)

Magic

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

This is the way I did mine, no leaks since.

hvyss

Yep dry oil pan and right stuff for timing cover and intake. My motor has been in the car for over two years and is still as clean as it was when it was installed

Valkyn

iTrader: (8)

So you used the right stuff between the pan gasket and timing cover and the rear arch also? Both sides of the gasket or just between the gasket and timing cover?

lt1-xjs

Most people have problems with the lip seals, not the gaskets. Clean, dry or using the right stuff should work.

WS Sick

I put the gaskets on dry with RTV at the corners of the pan where the srfaces chanch direction. The opti seal and waterpump seal should be put on lubed, I have never had them work good installed dry (the seal surface, not where it presses in) I allways oil them liberally , just like you do a rear main seal.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Might want to double check your "information" I believe the timing cover kits generally come with a little piece of paper specifically stating you are wrong and some seals need to be dry.

The waterpump drive seal is installed dry but it is very easy to flip the inner seal outwards which is what causes a LOT of leaks.

Far as the pan I have always just used a dab of silicon where the gasket goes from the block to the timing cover and on back where the rear main adapter meets the block.

WS Sick

My information is from doing a good amount of times and knowing what works.

mab6680

iTrader: (1)

use the rubber fel-pro gasket there awsome and never leak

nitrous addict

How long do u let the rtv setup before putting the oil back in. Oil wont let rtv set up completely.

WS Sick

30 minutes and the outside of the stuff has filmed over.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

If by " rear arch" you mean the rear main seal then no. I have a felpro Teflon seal that goes on dry. Just right stuff at the front corners where the pan meets the front cover.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

You should let silicone cure for 24 hours. The Right Stuff, loctite brand and other rubber based sealants cure in 15 minutes and hold up much better than RTV

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't mean you are right.
I have done it a bunch of times too.

WS Sick

Well the front of my motor says I did it at least right that time....lol