twarner

Ive read a few coolant problem storeis and i think im getting a better picture of what is wrong with my car, my temp quage doesnt even work anymore, it hit redline..then past redline and has given up now and just stays down all the time. I smell collant whenever im not on the highway. Around the city its not unusuall for smoke and clacking to occur when im sitting/taking off from a light. I have nad no water or coolant spraying from my radiator cap or where i put my coolant in, but i have had coolant and/or water leaking onto the pavement in front of my house somehow. Ive read everything from "get a new radiator cap" to "hello blown head gasket" but i have a feeling with the clacking (that seems to happen when i let out the clutch to take off from a standstill) that im looking at the larger of possible problems. Ive got almost 160,000 on the engine. Does it sound like i need to get a new cap, flush out my radiator and check my hoses/waterpump...or finance a freakin hyundai?

twarner

this has all occured this weekend by the way, thanks for the help!

hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

check the hose going into the passenger side of the waterpump. my serpentine belt sliced it open a few months back. very easy fix

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

http://www.indipalass.com/ARCHIVE/Te...lingSystem.htm

first, you need a working temp gauge to know what's going on. So unless the coolant is not getting over 100F after idling for 20 minutes which is not possible, you either have a bad coolant sensor on the block or a broken connector or wire, or at worst a bad gauge in the dash.

with some kind of working temp gauge, if coolant temp isn't reaching 180F or whatever LT1's run at, then it's most likely a stuck open thermostat. And if it's overheating it can also be a stuck closed thermostat... along with debris in front of the radiator, clogged radiator or very old coolant that was never changed, or massive air pockets in the cooling system.
if you overheated the crap out of it, then it's possible you warped the heads in which case you will need new head gaskets and also have to machine the heads flat, but before coming to that conclusion you should have the cooling system pressurized and find out if there's a leak. You can also pull the spark plugs and check them for signs of water/coolant in the combustion chamber.

2001NBMZ28

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#cooling

bore.me

iTrader: (15)

new engine coolant temp sensors (the one that is for the interior gauge) are about $20. It's on the driver side of the engine next to the spark plugs. Replace it so at least you know what's going on. What color is your coolant?

twarner

thanks for the advise, im taking apart the cooling system for leaks this weekend, checking the heads for coolant, and switching out my engine coolant temp sensor. With any luck i havent warped any heads or blown any head gaskets and my problem could be constrained to a leaky hose or water pump and bad thermostat, ill give details after the job is complete.

twarner

found a leaking house coming out from what looks like the block, it is crimped by a peice of metal onto a protruding 2in metal tube (best way i can describe). It runs to a peice of metal piping that runs to the back of the engine compartment, would this be enough to cause so much leakage and cooling problems?

98pontiac

heater core line... it must go into the firewall... there is only an upper/lower hose and two heater core lines.

ScrapSilicon

iTrader: (3)

steam/coolant line between the 2 heads on an lt1 see number 6 from shbox http://shbox.com/1/93-94_hoses.jpg

twarner

ok problem identified...anyone else with this problem look here https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...w-replace.html reference here http://shbox.com/1/heater_hoses.jpg

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

That first link doesnt work.

Take a picture of it and show exactly where the leak is.

I have an LS1, and we have two rubber hoses clamped to the passenger side of the water pump, then they both run back to the firewall. One of mine started to get a bulge in it about 3 months ago (11+ yr old factory original hose). I took the clamp off, took a razor knife and cut the bulge out, about 1.5 inches....then slid the hose back on, good as new. Screw changing that pain in the *** heater hose.

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twarner

Ok problem not identified, thought i needed to replace a heater control valve but everything is compression clamped together so i need to replace the whole hose assemply...where can i find a heater hose diagram of a 94? does anyone know if 94 and 95 differ? i found a diagram of a 95 but it doesnt seem to be the same

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

You said you found a leaking hose......take a pic and show us where that leak is on the hose?

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joes94z28

did you figure it out because my lt1 is leaking really bad