Intake manifold oil leak.....any advice?
#21
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
The addition of thread sealant certainly doesn't hurt. I've never had a leak using ARP Thread Sealant and my OPSU has been removed and installed probably a dozen times - each time getting new sealant.
In the few minutes it takes to remove the sensor and fittings and apply new sealant it's worth knowing that you eliminate the possibility of them leaking.
In the few minutes it takes to remove the sensor and fittings and apply new sealant it's worth knowing that you eliminate the possibility of them leaking.
#22
TECH Fanatic
Actually, I may have used some additional sealant on my sensor. It's been so long ago that I can't really remember. It would actually be unusual for me not to use additional sealant.
#23
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
Manifold leaks don't generate oil dripping leaks especially if the engine is idle and the oil valley is under vacuum. Unless the seal has completely blown out, they seep more than anything. Sounds more like it's a leak that has pressure behind it, so as stated, use thread sealant, let cure and then start engine to see what's up.
#24
Manifold leaks don't generate oil dripping leaks especially if the engine is idle and the oil valley is under vacuum. Unless the seal has completely blown out, they seep more than anything. Sounds more like it's a leak that has pressure behind it, so as stated, use thread sealant, let cure and then start engine to see what's up.
I'm going to try to get those fittings off with the manifold still on it tonight or at least put lots of dope on the oil pressure sensor and see what happens. If it's still leaking, the intake is coming off a 3rd time and I'm doping both fittings and tightening them like crazy.
#26
So I did a half-*** fix with half-*** results....I could not figure out how to get those damn fittings removed with them hidden under the back of the intake/EGR so tightly...is it even humanly possible to remove those without pulling the intake AGAIN? So I just put some pipe dope/thread sealant on the sensor itself since it is easy to remove (there was no tape sealant left and oil was clearly seeping all the way up the threads) and tightened it up.
However, I noticed I could move the whole sensor/fitting assembly left or right fairly easily, so the fitting that goes into the block is moving...the seal has been broken, I just tightened it as much as I could with my hand until the sensor was cocked toward the front a bit. Good news is I'm almost certain it's the broken seal of the fitting causing the leak, there was fresh oil all over the fittings after driving it to work and I cleaned them yesterday.
Has anyone actually removed the fitting in the block with the intake still on the motor (and engine in the car lol) or is pulling the intake required? I know it should be possible, but it's very hard to access. Also, do I use the same white permatex thread sealant on these fittings?
However, I noticed I could move the whole sensor/fitting assembly left or right fairly easily, so the fitting that goes into the block is moving...the seal has been broken, I just tightened it as much as I could with my hand until the sensor was cocked toward the front a bit. Good news is I'm almost certain it's the broken seal of the fitting causing the leak, there was fresh oil all over the fittings after driving it to work and I cleaned them yesterday.
Has anyone actually removed the fitting in the block with the intake still on the motor (and engine in the car lol) or is pulling the intake required? I know it should be possible, but it's very hard to access. Also, do I use the same white permatex thread sealant on these fittings?
#27
Village Troll
iTrader: (2)
If the EGR is still in place while you're doing this, take it off. Aside from the sender there are two other fittings. One is straight, and you should be able to get it off with the correct sized wrench. The other is a 90* and my be more challenging to get off with the manifold in place. I don't know if there's enough clearance or not, but at least get the straight fitting off and then try to go for the 90*. Shoebox has a pic on his site that may help.
#28
If the EGR is still in place while you're doing this, take it off. Aside from the sender there are two other fittings. One is straight, and you should be able to get it off with the correct sized wrench. The other is a 90* and my be more challenging to get off with the manifold in place. I don't know if there's enough clearance or not, but at least get the straight fitting off and then try to go for the 90*. Shoebox has a pic on his site that may help.
#30
one step forward, two steps back
So I just got both fittings off after taking off the EGR valve....not nearly as bad as I thought actually....only took 20 mins or so and I'm no mechanic. Unfortunately, just my luck, I managed to somehow damage the female threads of the engine block fitting by using a damn adjustable crescent wrench so now the other fitting won't screw in all the way.....who wants to sell me some LT1 oil fittings?
For future reference, the proper socket makes this a piece of cake once the EGR is out of there....DO NOT USE AN ADJUSTABLE CRESCENT WRENCH! If only I would have known the right socket for the 90 one in the block is a 19mm and the one the OPS goes into is a 7/8"
For future reference, the proper socket makes this a piece of cake once the EGR is out of there....DO NOT USE AN ADJUSTABLE CRESCENT WRENCH! If only I would have known the right socket for the 90 one in the block is a 19mm and the one the OPS goes into is a 7/8"
#31
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: POULSBO WA.
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I took my sensor off of a laid down angle and put it straight up and down. Itook the sensor to napa and asked them what kind of fitting i needed and a little bit of teflon tape and done. Piece of cake!
#35
Negative....they don't have the hole in the side, NAPA does not carry it; neither does Home depot; it's a transvestite fitting (has both male and female threads) Apparently it's an official GM part; and therefore they charge you out the ***....$29 for one tiny fitting WTF! **** better be gold plated lol. I'll call my buddy who works at the dealership and see if he can get a better deal....what a pain in the ***!
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/products/.../10137636.html
http://parts.nalleygmc.com/products/.../10137636.html
Last edited by ahritchie; 06-27-2012 at 06:55 PM.
#36
This ****** is discontinued....so I have to pay for shipping from a dealership several states away so it's almost $50 for one fitting.
Seriously, who wants to sell me some oil fittings? I know somebody has a crusty LT1 boat anchor somewhere collecting dust lol. It's either that or I go out to the "pull a part" in the 105 degree heat this weekend looking for oil fittings out of a caprice Does not sound fun
Seriously, who wants to sell me some oil fittings? I know somebody has a crusty LT1 boat anchor somewhere collecting dust lol. It's either that or I go out to the "pull a part" in the 105 degree heat this weekend looking for oil fittings out of a caprice Does not sound fun
#38
I did find a website that sells fittings that looks like they might work:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#stainless-s...ttings/=i6d8p0
Would 2 of the "miniature stainless steel threaded pipe fittings" 90 female x male elbow 1/8 x 1/8 (part #2684K14) work? I would have to get a different oil pressure sensor because mine is the bigger 1/4" thread I believe.
If not I'm going to have to start searching junkyards....not fun at all.
Last edited by ahritchie; 06-28-2012 at 02:21 PM.
#40
This website kicks ***....I put up a wanted ad and somebody replied that is selling both stock fittings in less than an hour! Hopefully they ship it quick!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-wan...l#post16465403
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-wan...l#post16465403