ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

I finally got my car tuned by PCM for less after a series of setbacks including a self destructing POS harmonic damper, faulty O2, and several attempts at fixing a terrible intake oil leak (STILL leaking....I think the ported intake is a BAD casting )

My setup includes:

-Motor
93 LT1 block, fully machined (Block cleaned, magnafluxed, bored with deck plate, splayed caps installed, line bored/honed, core plugs installed, Durabond cam bearings installed, clean up milled with around .005 removed, stroker clearanced) 11.4 CR

Eagle Billet Splayed Caps w/ ARP Studs/Bolts
Ohio 4340 Forged Crankshaft
Ohio 4340 H-Beam 5.7 Rods w/ ARP 2000 Bolts
Keith Black Forged Pistons with +6.4cc Valve Reliefs
Perfect Circle Plasma-Moly Rings
Clevite TM77 Rod and Main Bearings
SFI Approved Professional Products Balancer
SFI Approved TCI Flexplate
Rotating Assembly Fully Balanced
Melling M155HV Oil Pump w/ Milodon Pump Bracket, hardened drive shaft, ARP Pump Stud
Moroso 7qt Kicked out Zinc Finish Pan with Matching bolt-on pick-up
LS7 Lifters
New (Comp Cams iirc) Replacement Lifter Spider and Anti-Rotation Link Bars
Herron Billet Aluminum Oil Pump Drive w/ factory gear
Lunati Voodoo 60122 Cam
Lunati Billet True Roller Single-Row Timing Set (For Gen 1 Opti Design)
All Fasteners are ARP (Including the oil pan), except the ones for the lifter spider and the oil pump drive hold down bolt.
Combination motorsports stage 2 cnc ported heads
Comp cams magnum 1.6 roller rockers
52mm ported stock TB w/TPIS airfoil
JEGS SFI balancer
MSD opti

Car
-1994 Formula, 6spd, electric WP, pacesetter mid tube headers, magnaflow catback, homemade spectre/LG motorsports CAI.


Now, for the numbers.....370 rwhp/ 405 rwtq Unfortunately there were a few issues that need to be addressed to get in the 400+ rwhp club.

I'm happy with the torque #....it's a beast on the street with 4.10's and 6spd; and I rarely push is past 6K RPM due to traction problems But the power up top should be in the 410 range. It's really all my fault for being cheap sticking with some 2003 era comp cam valve springs in my old school combination motorsports heads I need a good spring recommendation.....the tuner also noted:

"1. The intake is pretty restrictive. your pulling a solid 3 inches of vaccum on the top end. I reccomend a LS1 air lid swap as they seem to make the most power

2. The right side O2 is still a good 10-15% richer than the left side. It could be because of an exhaust leak (which I'm confident I can hear) or it could be still because its coated in oil. (Me personally cannot hear any exhaust leak....will have to take a closer look).

3. There is what appears to be a valve train related issue. Above 6000 the car drops off fairly hard. Its definately not ignition. If I had to guess it is valve springs or pushrod lenght, or rocker arm adjustment. I would talk to Phil at AI to see what type of springs he reccomends.

Since the car basically starts nosing off at 5800-6000 its not making the power it should. It made 405 ft lbs of torque and around 370 on power. It really should be in the 410/405 range.

I also would say if your doing a LS1 air lid, do a way with the MAF. Plumb it in 4 inch tubing and get a eficonnection swap going on. We can then easily tune the car in speed density. It will run better, smell better, have much better spark at higher RPM, etc. It is really light years better than the LT1 stock computer. "

So, bottom line, what it the BEST valve springs (under $300) for a lunati voodoo 60122? How much HP is my apparently shitty CAI intake costing me?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

I'm considering these spring options....which are the BEST?

1. Patriot Performance Dual "Gold Extreme" Spring Kit for LT1/LT4 applications
2. Comp Cams 26918 Beehive Ovate Springs
3. LS7 valve springs
4. Alex's parts LT1 high lift springs (no-name spring kit)

http://www.thunderracing.com/shop-by...d-Accessories/


http://www.alexsparts.com/lt1-valve-...rs-locks-cups/

bowtiedad_z28

iTrader: (4)

Personally i would choose the patriots.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Patriot Golds will be plenty of spring for that cam, and are reasonably priced as well.

Did the tuner not pull the intake for a run just to see how restrictive it was? That would have been a very easy test to see what you're leaving on the table...but with the valvetrain problems I would worry about that later.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

No, he didn't pull the intake off...I'm not going to bother replacing it with an LS lid unless it's costing 10+ hp....it's not like the car is slow as it sits lol. He keeps trying to sell me on the $2000 EFI conversion for what; 10-15 hp maybe and better tuning I plan to take it back for a final run just to see what number it makes with new springs....and try what you suggested removing the intake.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

That will at least give you an idea of what its costing you.

I really want the 24x kit myself, but its expensive and will have to wait...

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Got my dyno graph, just an FYI to those considering upgrading a mail order tune to a dyno tune, they did pickup 20 hp over the baseline with the mail order.... And there's plenty more potential once I get some decent springs to spin it another 1000 rpm like it should

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Damn, been too lazy, broke, and distracted with my other Austin Healey project; the purple car and it's dyno issues have been on the back burner I've just been dicking around driving it to work a couple days a week to break in the Zoom kevlar clutch and terrorize local ricers and mustangs

Time for an update and get the ball rolling on "finishing" the car LOL; it has not been forgotten. Apparently, I waited too long and the Patriot gold spring kit for LT1's is no longer made. Oh well, I just decided to go with what I know and get the same old Lunati Beehive spring kit that Lunati recommends for the cam I have, I had the same spring kit on my old motor that took a

The new springs are going in within the next week, they just came yesterday! Once they are installed, and I get the local exhaust shop to locate/fix my mysterious (I can't hear it) but stinky exhaust leak (tired of smelling like gas coming to work and 13 MPG lol) I plan to get a baseline dyno run to see if it's finally making power past 6K RPM and hit the 410-420 rwhp range

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Lunati makes a good dual spring, I would have done those, I wonder why they didn't recommend them?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Funny you mention, that was tech's first recommendation (their cheap $65 #73100 double springs, actually), but those supposedly required machining the head (so does their $250+ LSx dual spring kit you mention); I'm not really trying to make this anymore complicated than absolutely necessary.

The Lunati tech said the #74818K2 Beehive spring kit ($230) was the upgraded kit for my voodoo cam and those don't reqire any head machining. Those beehive's worked great on my old cam only setup with no valve float, so hoping for the same results.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

im not a huge patriot fan but for that cam its more than fine

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

No Patriots for me, they quit making/selling those a few months ago Oh well, it did save me about $100 to use the Lunati beehives instead that are "matched" to the cam. Can't wait to let the new 383 rip to 6500+ RPM finally

englundjd

in for the numbers, may i ask how much $$$ the top end ran you? ive been contemplating that cam

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Seriously?
You cant get the Patriot spring kits anymore?

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it seems the aftermarket is slowly phasing out the ole LT1

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Well ****. Lucky for me though I can run any dual LS1 spring since I had my guides machined to 1/2".

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

No too bad actually, the cam actually came in the shortblock I bought outright....lucky for me it was speced perfect for my setup The cam goes for about $290, the upgraded beehive spring kit with springs, locks/retainers/cups cost $230. I'm running the older version of the Comp cams Ultra pro magnum 1.6 roller rockers which were $320.

The heads are vintage 2003 Combination motorsports stage 2.5 cnc ported stockers that we're lightly used on somebody's 94 Camaro bracket racer I picked up for $750.

I don't think it should be an issue to hit 410-420 rwhp considering it's already pushing over 400 RWTQ as is with terrible valve float over 5800rpm due to old worn out springs...and suposedly restrictive intake.

ahritchie

iTrader: (1)

So the car is finally in the shop for valve spring replacement, getting rid of some 2003 era floating triple valve springs for some new beehives.

Only problem is the mechanic is not sure what valve seals to use; my old Combination motorsports stage 2.5 ported heads have had some valve work done (bigger valves installed, 2.00 intake, 1.6 exhaust) so they aren't factory seals. He said he would ask the machine shop he deals with tomorrow about it.

Any idea what valve seal I need for stock LT1 ported heads with big valves?

I guess we'll see what the machine shop has to say.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

There are only two valve spring in the U.S. right now that I know of. Crane had their own off shore spring company years ago. Don't know if they still do.
U.S. Spring makes about everybody's valve springs. Them and PAC. I have had very good luck with PAC. Lunati, Patriot, all come from U.S. Spring unless something has changed recently. (Kinda like flex plates). Find springs that meet your specs, won't really matter what name is on the box. You can buy the exact same spring from more than one place.
Proper set up has a lot to do with spring life.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Ed,
What can say regarding what you know about the Comp 918 beehive failures back around 2008?