Dave357LT1

Just wanted to get a feel what kit people have had good luck with. Ive seen a lot of people using flaming river. What is the best kit for a reasonable price?

joelster

None of them are what I would call "reasonable" price. They all screw you on the tiny parts. The rack is $250ish which doesn't seem too bad, then they all want $175-$200 for a bumpsteer kit (tie-rods and spacers) and then another $150ish for the column u-joint. Most of the kits are $600ish total. You shed about 5lbs total, but it is easier to steer with a dedicated manual rack over a power rack with the lines looped. Some charge extra for a brace that connects the manual rack to your stock k-member.

Dave357LT1

What brand did you go with? I'm doing it more because I'm deleting the power steering.

joelster

Stock rack with the lines looped.

LongIsland63SS409

iTrader: (22)

Manual rack I used.

Mike

https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...nual-rack.html

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Only 5 lbs? I'm guessing that doesn't include the pump, hoses, and accessory bracket that you no longer need.

Must suck when you're driving on tires wider than skinnies on the street.

joelster

I'm comparing the weight difference between an aftermarket manual rack, and a stock rack with the lines looped. Neither setup will have the power steering pump and brackets. I'm not about to pay another $600 to shed 5lbs.

Dave357LT1

Im gonna either pay to have mine converted or do it myself after doing some reading. I need to bite the bullet and buy a welder. Now I'm gonna be the "guy with a truck, a trailer and a welder" fml

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

By far this is the best most economical way I have found
http://shop.rackdoctor.net/1993-1997...4-custom-C.htm

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

That's what I figured and I agree.

Wow! That's pretty reasonable. Do you use this with street tires by chance?

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Wow! That's pretty reasonable. Do you use this with street tires by chance?[/QUOTE]

I would email or call them to see but i dont think either would be an issue.

Dave357LT1

Just got my converted manual rack from rack doctor today. They said it would take up to four weeks and got it only in one week. I'll give another update when the car gets rolling

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Awesome. Looking forward to it. What size tires are you using?

Dave357LT1

165/80/r15 vw tires

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

In for results

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

madman, had it for 6 years and never looked back. Been on 4 different cars with it and indestructible on the street and track.

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

I was going to suggest Madman as well.

Besides the 5lbs lose, what about the HP that you free up?

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

I HOPE they change the Steering ratio on the "Depower" rack of it won't be any better then one with the lines looped for driving.

I built my own and it still was not cheap. here is what I remember.

Rack off e-bay new $135 delivered
5/8th hiem joints $35 x2
Custom Tie Rod Sleeves $85
Pinto spline adapter $21
dirt track steering universal joint $32
18in of Double "D" rod $12
Aluminum Rack mount clamp $45
$400 spent for what I wanted to do plus custom K-member rebuild. This is what I got...

Stock joint into Double "D" rod


Double "D" rod to New Joint to Pinto spline adapter


Where "I" set my pan clearance


Tie rod sleeves to 5/8th Hiems


Modified K-member


Installed and ready



I want to say this setup was 8lbs over the stock equivalant

Dave357LT1

Getting rid of the parts that cause internal friction didn't help? It's stock ratio.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

thing of it this way. A stock rack would be like having a set of 2.72 rear end gears in you car. The engine has to grunt harder to get going. add 3.73s and the engine does not have to grunt as hard and you get going easier.

Now imagine you are the engine. with a stock rack you have to grunt harder to turn it then you would a true Manual rack

My stock rack was 2.75 turns lock to lock my new manual rack is 5