my first f body
#1
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my first f body
Any recommendations on a good cam for a bone stock high mileage lt1. A motor build is in the distant future but i wanna make a little more power now. Plans for at least LT Headers in the near future. Oh and I am gonna do a underdrive pulley with the cam swap
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under drive pulleys havent proved to be worth it on LT1's, i would start with bolt ons and then gear/stall...if your planning a build in the future these mods will more than satisfy your seat HP for now....welcome to the F Body world...
#4
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A decent bolt-on LT1 will satisfy your needs until you're ready and have money to sink into major engine modifications.
#5
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Don't even start with that crap...I'm guessing this guy is new to cars in general and you're telling to do a complete engine swap? Let the man tinker with the LT1 first. Not everyone is looking for 600+ HP.
A decent bolt-on LT1 will satisfy your needs until you're ready and have money to sink into major engine modifications.
A decent bolt-on LT1 will satisfy your needs until you're ready and have money to sink into major engine modifications.
Gen IV>Gen III>Gen II>Gen I
If I could jump a generation and upgrade my Gen III to GenIV for the cost of a cam swap, guess what Id do? haha
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Thanx for the info, my eventual goal is a 383 stroker but im just gonna start cheap and try to sqeeze a few more hp out of my old tired motor in the mean time. Btw it's a'93 auto i got cheap but needs alot of tlc. But it's not a daily driver its just a playtoy.
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Don't feed the newbies bad advice, please.
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i have bolt ons (not full bolt on) 93 auto and im running 12.6 on motor...jus sayin, with above mentioned mods...LS swap takes alot of prep and so on...a good LTWon can run with them all day long...
#11
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Not bad advice either, just saying a very pricey 383 LT1 build is not a very good way to go to make 400-450 rwhp. When a 5.3 with full bolt ons, 243s, and a cam can do the same with way less cubes.
Last edited by jrob56; 09-07-2012 at 10:39 AM.
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He asked for a cam, you tell him to change the engine...and I'm not interested in explaining how many variables your swap contains.
This is ltx area mang, don't be surprised when everyone tells you to stfu about an lsx swap. We have all heard it a hundred times. We get it. Its better.
This is ltx area mang, don't be surprised when everyone tells you to stfu about an lsx swap. We have all heard it a hundred times. We get it. Its better.
#13
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OP, go grab some boltons and pick up a lt4 hotcam kit. It will more than satisfy your power urge until your ready to rebuild. You can do everything pretty cheap if you buy it used. Go over to LTxtech.com also, the for sale forum is pretty good; and you don't get people telling you to just do an engine swap. Mostly why I don't post here often. Also grab a trans cooler and a stall. It will make you enjoy the car like a new one. Don't forget a tune when all is done.
#14
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He asked for a cam, you tell him to change the engine...and I'm not interested in explaining how many variables your swap contains.
This is ltx area mang, don't be surprised when everyone tells you to stfu about an lsx swap. We have all heard it a hundred times. We get it. Its better.
This is ltx area mang, don't be surprised when everyone tells you to stfu about an lsx swap. We have all heard it a hundred times. We get it. Its better.
It is better and I know you and the other regulars know. I just dont understand why if someone was new to fbodies looking to cam a high mileage, outdated engine platform it isnt good advice. For about the same or slightly more cost he could have a lower mileage better/newer platform that will have stock drivability. Itll be easier to work on, have way more potential, way more aftermarket support, cheaper parts, and make as much power with a stock cam as the LT1 with a cam. How is that not good advice to someone new to fbodies in general, not just new to ltx. Im just looking out for the guy. You guys might all know it and dont care or just love ltx enough to keep it, but the new fbody guy might have no idea his money could be much better spent.
If I cammed an ltx and no one told me I could buy a 5.3 ls for 500 complete instead Id be pissed.
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So Jrob56 where you getting low mileage complete 5.3's for $1500. not in my world. maybe years ago when the LS swap wasnt so familiar. not to menton the cam swap and all the other modifications that come with it. swapping out the tune to work right,then you got a car with a LS woo hoo you and everyones else and there sister.
I'll stick with my LT4 396 stroker and defy to be different.
OP
just hit it with a 150 shot till it cant take no more,
my friend has a stock 150,000 mile lt1 T/A
presently running 12.6 et, not bad for utah and the altitude.
I'll stick with my LT4 396 stroker and defy to be different.
OP
just hit it with a 150 shot till it cant take no more,
my friend has a stock 150,000 mile lt1 T/A
presently running 12.6 et, not bad for utah and the altitude.
#16
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So Jrob56 where you getting low mileage complete 5.3's for $1500. not in my world. maybe years ago when the LS swap wasnt so familiar. not to menton the cam swap and all the other modifications that come with it. swapping out the tune to work right,then you got a car with a LS woo hoo you and everyones else and there sister.
I'll stick with my LT4 396 stroker and defy to be different.
OP
just hit it with a 150 shot till it cant take no more,
my friend has a stock 150,000 mile lt1 T/A
presently running 12.6 et, not bad for utah and the altitude.
I'll stick with my LT4 396 stroker and defy to be different.
OP
just hit it with a 150 shot till it cant take no more,
my friend has a stock 150,000 mile lt1 T/A
presently running 12.6 et, not bad for utah and the altitude.
You can say throw out all the times you want, but any ls modded the same will outrun it. Calling bs on a stock lt1 TA running 12.6, define stock?
If you want to be "defy to be different", might want to switch to exotics or building one off cars, no camaro/firebird with a 396 lt1 will be considered off the beaten path. Saying an old chevy stroker is being different is like being emo and saying its nonconformist.
Last edited by jrob56; 09-07-2012 at 03:33 PM.
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Ill reply back later with examples if need be, but you can get 5.3s for 500-700 bucks from yards, still very doable. Idk where you are saying 1500, hell for 1500 I can buy a pull out 6.0 LQ4/9 from any yard in this state! 75k-100k miles, which is nothing. Some creep up to 150kmiles but hose are 12-1300 6.0s. There are more to go around then all of us can use, they sold a **** ton of those trucks. Tune youll need that with the cammed lt1, bolt ons youll need that with the cammed lt1.
You can say throw out all the times you want, but any ls modded the same will outrun it. Calling bs on a stock lt1 TA running 12.6, define stock?
If you want to be "defy to be different", might want to switch to exotics or building one off cars, no camaro/firebird with a 396 lt1 will be considered off the beaten path. Saying an old chevy stroker is being different is like being emo and saying its nonconformist.
You can say throw out all the times you want, but any ls modded the same will outrun it. Calling bs on a stock lt1 TA running 12.6, define stock?
If you want to be "defy to be different", might want to switch to exotics or building one off cars, no camaro/firebird with a 396 lt1 will be considered off the beaten path. Saying an old chevy stroker is being different is like being emo and saying its nonconformist.
I cant even find a 5.3/5.7/6.0 lq/ls engine within 100 miles of where i live ( junkyards included in search) much less find a cheap one ... hell i have trouble finding LT1's and sometimes it hard to get a 'good' sbc
nebraska sucks
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Just sell the current LT1 Z-28, take the money for the cam swap and the money needed for all **** needed for the LS swap and buy an LS Z-28. It'll save you an *** load of time and money. Or put a good cam, valve springs and maybe some RR and drive it tell the motor pops.
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Just sell the current LT1 Z-28, take the money for the cam swap and the money needed for all **** needed for the LS swap and buy an LS Z-28. It'll save you an *** load of time and money. Or put a good cam, valve springs and maybe some RR and drive it tell the motor pops.