Is there an aftermarket clutch slave cylinder setup?
09-07-2012, 08:54 PM
#1
Is there an aftermarket clutch slave cylinder setup? Was on my way to a party in stop and go traffic and all of a sudden the clutch pedal snaps to the floor. Got a quick tow home and I'm not sure what broke at the moment but I'm thinking I'm going to need a new one of these since the original one is still on the car from 1994:
Is there an aftermarket setup or stock GM is just fine?
And how easy is it to swap out? Thanx
Is there an aftermarket setup or stock GM is just fine?
And how easy is it to swap out? Thanx
09-07-2012, 08:58 PM
#2
I just went through this
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-cylinder.html
Look on the last page, I went with the Rock Auto setup, it turns out it is EXACTLY like the factory setup.
And a tip for getting the steering shaft in and out, take out the bolt on the steering rack and slip it forward an inch, makes it alot easier.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...-cylinder.html
Look on the last page, I went with the Rock Auto setup, it turns out it is EXACTLY like the factory setup.
And a tip for getting the steering shaft in and out, take out the bolt on the steering rack and slip it forward an inch, makes it alot easier.
Last edited by bufmatmuslepants; 09-07-2012 at 09:04 PM.
09-07-2012, 09:06 PM
#3
You mean this:
Thanx! I'm hoping this is all it is.
Just wanted to add a couple pointers for those who find this thread in a search looking for HOW TO's:
1. Tilt the steering column up
2. Remove the steering shaft by removing the 11mm bolt and ALOT of prying with a screwdriver and swing it out of the way towards the front of the car
3. unclip the master cylinder reservoir from the clip, swing it down towards the header
4. Take off the 2 13mm bolts holding the master to the firewall under the dash with a deep well and a few extensions
5. take off the clip holding the master plunger to the clutch petal
6. take off the 2 13mm bolts holding the slave on with a 13mm deep well, then slip out the slave from the trans
7. pull the master out from the firewall and let it dangle, the bolts that hold it in is actually a squared U bolt, remove that U bolt and set it aside
TRICKY PART:
8. Finagle the slave from under the car up OVER the #7 primary, that is the ONLY SPOT it is big enough to slip through with Pacesetter LTs. It SUCKS and takes a while but youll get it
9. Going back and forth from below the car to above, slowly work the slave up and out of the top of the engine bay
When putting the new assembly in, DO NOT CUT THE PLASTIC RETAINING CLIP ON THE SLAVE, EVER, it breaks when you first push the clutch petal.
Assembly is just the reverse of disassembly.
RHINOPAC/WORLD CAR Part # PS0427 on RockAuto.com, $93 for the part, $102 shipped to your door.
1. Tilt the steering column up
2. Remove the steering shaft by removing the 11mm bolt and ALOT of prying with a screwdriver and swing it out of the way towards the front of the car
3. unclip the master cylinder reservoir from the clip, swing it down towards the header
4. Take off the 2 13mm bolts holding the master to the firewall under the dash with a deep well and a few extensions
5. take off the clip holding the master plunger to the clutch petal
6. take off the 2 13mm bolts holding the slave on with a 13mm deep well, then slip out the slave from the trans
7. pull the master out from the firewall and let it dangle, the bolts that hold it in is actually a squared U bolt, remove that U bolt and set it aside
TRICKY PART:
8. Finagle the slave from under the car up OVER the #7 primary, that is the ONLY SPOT it is big enough to slip through with Pacesetter LTs. It SUCKS and takes a while but youll get it
9. Going back and forth from below the car to above, slowly work the slave up and out of the top of the engine bay
When putting the new assembly in, DO NOT CUT THE PLASTIC RETAINING CLIP ON THE SLAVE, EVER, it breaks when you first push the clutch petal.
Assembly is just the reverse of disassembly.
RHINOPAC/WORLD CAR Part # PS0427 on RockAuto.com, $93 for the part, $102 shipped to your door.
09-07-2012, 09:21 PM
#4
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Same thing happened to me about 2 years ago. The braided line popped out of the slave. Luckily I was close to home and just drove her home in 1st.
09-08-2012, 03:22 AM
#5
You can get away with a stock set up for a while my OE replacement lasted 5 years.
I now have this http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-lt1-f-body/ it is awesome.... just looking at the way it is constructed will give you peace of mind! It is not cheap however it is quite worth it.
I now have this http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-lt1-f-body/ it is awesome.... just looking at the way it is constructed will give you peace of mind! It is not cheap however it is quite worth it.
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09-08-2012, 03:58 PM
#8
I don't know what's broken yet. The car is stuck in the driveway and it's crappy weather. Hopefully tomorrow I'll get to jack the car up and see what's what.
My best guess is the rod that pushes the clutch fork broke cause the rod to the pedal looks intact and it was hanging exposed to the elements for 13 years.
I only have a Pep Boys and Advanced Auto nearby. I can get GM parts but I'm sure I'll get raped. The Tick Performance one looks overkill for just a Spec stage 1 clutch but I'm not ruling it out yet.
My best guess is the rod that pushes the clutch fork broke cause the rod to the pedal looks intact and it was hanging exposed to the elements for 13 years.
I only have a Pep Boys and Advanced Auto nearby. I can get GM parts but I'm sure I'll get raped. The Tick Performance one looks overkill for just a Spec stage 1 clutch but I'm not ruling it out yet.
09-09-2012, 11:52 AM
#10
Where is the sensor on the clutch assembly located that allows you to start the engine? It tries to turn over but it can't. Can't tell if the battery is drained from the tow or something is jambed against the flywheel holding it back.
09-09-2012, 12:57 PM
#11
You can vacuum bleed these set up, need a compressor and a power brake bleeder.. Works great and takes about 3-4 minutes.
