cbr600rx7

iTrader: (12)

Hey everyone I have been in and out for a while now but might be picking up a little project. Over the last few weeks I have been doing a 355 TBI build going into a 87 Silverado build for a local guy. The projected started as stock engine swap and somehow got transformed into building a motor, transmission and transfer case along with suspension and gauges. Long story short it’s been a long project that I think got away from the owner. Fast forward a few weeks and he does not have all the cash to pay me.

He can pay me about half of what he owns me to cover my cost plus about $500 bucks for labor. And he has offered to turn over a 95 trans am with 104,000 miles on it. Now I have worked on this car a few times and know the current condition is not great however it does seem to run strong. It also has full header back exhaust, 3.73 gears, and some miner bolt ones but it also needs the following.

Starter is jacked up and has eaten some of the fly wheel. Car does not currently start because starter teeth will not mesh with fly wheel (it just spins).

Front main seal has a decent leak that would need to be fixed before attempting any type of road trip.

Its kicking a 02 sensor code.

Body and interior are both in what I would call fair condition.

I figure the car is worth about 1500-2000 the way it sits but with a little TLC and about 300-500 in parts it would be an easy sell for 3K. I would like to know what everyone on here thinks.

Also please keep in my I am not a LT1/LT4 guy so I am going to be learning a little here.

WS Sick

Replace the starter and flexplate with stock stuff, replace the rear main seal while you got it apart. When doing the front make sure the oil is not coming from the opti drive seal or the water pump drive seal, they are notorious for leaks. Do not put a bosch O2 sensor on the car.
I have seen good running driving cars sell anywhere from 65 to 2500 depending on condition of the car, if it looks good in and out and runs very well with minimal problems (after you mess with it) you should look at the higher end of the range.

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

A4 or M6?

cbr600rx7

iTrader: (12)

Its a 4L60 car. I wish it was a T56. I have a soft spot for the TA but this may be one i just flip.

cbr600rx7

iTrader: (12)

So here is a blunt question for you guys. How long should it take to replace the fly wheel, rear main seal, opti seal, and front main seal in a F-body. Guessing about 6 hours total?

WS Sick

If you have a lift and tranny jack etc it should go pretty quick, if youre doing it on jack stands it will take a bit. But the 6 hour would be a good guess for the long end of the spectrum.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Maybe double that. You're talking about removing and replacing the transmission AND removing the entire front of the motor AND reassembling it. If you're familiar with everything you could probably do it all in a day but it would be a LONG day.

Definitely not 6 hours though, IMO, properly.

cbr600rx7

iTrader: (12)

We do have a lift and transmission jack. And there are two of us.

cbr600rx7

iTrader: (12)

Yeah so looks like more like 20 for us LOL. One of the main snags was converting the new motor over to OBD2 and changing out some misc sensors.

The hooker headers are a pain in the *** to get off. The two bolts near the back on the passenger side are damn near impossible to get off.

TA_Moscow

iTrader: (4)

Let's part it out i'll get some parts for sure.

cbr600rx7

iTrader: (12)

why would I part the car out when its almost running again?

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Why would you go to OBD2? OBD1 is cheaper and easier to tune. So your in it 20 hours for both people or 10 hours each? Did you do the front seal by removing the timing cover or just popping the seal out?

cbr600rx7

iTrader: (12)

Nope my helper dropped out on me so its a one man show. Makes for a pain but it can be done. The car is OBD2 but the new motor was OBD1. We had to change the front timing cover to accept the OBD2 opti and CPS.