Ram air 1995

So i have a 95 trans pretty basic mods pacesetter headers y pipe flowmasters stall richmond 4.10 lt4 hot cam and some suspension work done also but im looking to get my car in tip top shape for the spring races so im thinkin of installing a new turbo or supercharger. Im not familiar with turbos or superchargers so any ideas on whats the best for my car. Also take into account what pistons cam injectors fuel pump etc that i might need as well. peace

93M6Formula

Oh boy here we go again...

Unless you have $10K+ don't even think about Forced Induction right now at all.

The stock LT1 will not take boost for very long safely. You will need better rods and lower compression pistons at minimum. Forged preferably. The stock crank is fairly strong but I would still recomend a forged crank for boost.

On top of all this, what are your goals for the car? The 10 bolt with 4:10s will grenade eventually. Start with suspension, a 9" or Strange S60 rearend, A quality built trans, and THEN you can do something to the motor. Whats the point of having all that power when you can't put it to the ground without breaking something.

For example....I had pipe dreams of building a twin turbo 383 for my car when I first got my car. That was 5 years ago and I realized that was not gonna happen in the near future since i'm only 23 now. So i decided to be smart and buy my suspension components, a good rearend and a good trans so that when I get to the motor, the rest of my car will handle it with ease.

I chose to buy a Strange S60, a chromoly driveshaft, a viper spec'd T-56, and suspension components after I did my full bolt ons.

ascastil

iTrader: (2)

Boost=No Bueno
Forged, forged, and more forged.

pillarpod

neither, Prochager it

92Vette

Don't boost without forged internals, I hear the ring lands won't last very long and other things will probably break too....

Just remember, "supercharge" and "budget" don't go very well together

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Nitrous

96z28_lt1

iTrader: (3)

forced induction and budget don't go very well, im sure many of us want that boosted lt1 that makes ridiculous power so we can hang with most other cars with boost. lBoost and lt1s don't make a relativley goodcombo, some people have had decent luck running stock lt1s with forced induction but its honestly just a ticking time bomb.... like stated, build up the bottom end before you put any boost on

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

Its a huge money hole w any car really even the great ls1 cant hold single digit PSI for very long. Go to FI section they have a sticky just for the people who have tryed FI w stock btm end some get lucky but most dont and either ur only looking at maybe 100 rwhp safely MAYBE ......... spray it ur alot more money ahead , or like the earlier gentlemen said plan on 10k+ i can tell u personally i have dbl that into my setup, by the time u handle fuel, trans,rear end, btm end, top end, tuning and thats just the drivetrain , now u gotta put that power to the ground. I wld say 10k is a close figure for 500rwhp or so anything over 600rwhp add another 10k to that. GLWYB

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

I say sell it and start a new project. Pick up an LS1 with a blown motor, swap in a 5.3 and follow Denmah's builds in the forced induction section, particularly his 2500 pickup. He does **** cheap and goes REALLY fast. LT1s are a dying breed, if you found one stock, leave it alone. Seriously not worth it to mod these anymore. Unless its purely because you like expensive lego sets that get blown away by erector sets.

Bigtoyz

iTrader: (2)

If I had to do it over again.......stock motor and the OLD 600b and 9 psi was fun as hell. The only thing that needs to be done to make it last is replace the stock pistons with forged ones of same cr. Is what I had did and had alot of fun for 60k miles. And put on a boost retard for traveling and not know how good the fuel is.

The stock pistons might handle the 9 psi if you know that you are getting good 91+ ALL the time. Mine did till I went out of town and ran into bad gas and seen someone who needed a whoopin.....stangs, 911's and vipers of the day.......back in 97

Popcorn anyone......... 0-4 sec to make some with bad fuel.

lt1needingboost

iTrader: (8)

I forgot abt 600b and theyre quite a few of them out there. I also agree w bigtoys if i had it 2 do over agn i wldnt do FI way to much money

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Heads/cam/spray will make you enough power to stay with some of the big boys. After that it all depends on how long your $$$ is

HarleyZ28

iTrader: (2)

I cant agree with this anymore. My car is baby cammed, bolton, hand ported heads, and of course some suspension work bigger rear etc and I can beat most people on the street in my area. I eventually plan for some nitrous. Best bang for the buck really. There is a guy with a LT1 Im not sure if he is on this forum but Ive seen him on another site. Regardless he had a 96 camaro ss Heads cam F.a.s.t ecu and he is getting like 502rwhp N/A on a 355 c.i LT1. Seen videos of high 10 second passes.

93M6Formula

Honestly the one and only reason I ever considered turboing my car someday is purely because I love the sound of a turbo spooling up and the BOV going off. But I have a '94 6.5 Turbo diesel to tie me over in that category lol.

HarleyZ28

iTrader: (2)

That is an awesome sound so I can understand what you mean. Just for how much money thats into it you got to ask yourself if its truly worth it. I mean there are people with deep pockets on here that can **** thousands and thousands in there cars to make them just a little faster. But for your average person Heads/Cam/Intake/Boltons/Nitrous is the best value and is proven. With that being said you would have a 10 second street car that you would pretty much beat anyone on the street with. Anything past that your basically making a full out drag car.

93M6Formula

Exactly, and besides the money part; I have 3 friends with boosted mustangs and every single one of them have had nothing but issues with tuning and drivability and stuff breaking and it just turns me off of F.I. totally. And I understand an N/A car can break but it's easier to diagnose. I will do nitrous for sure someday because it can be a little more forgiving when done correctly.

Z28tek

Wouldn't a stage 2 or 3 heads & cam package be a better option for an LT1?..., built on a forged 383 rotating assembly.
Then throw a 100 shot on there if you want to get real nasty.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

The term "stage" is reserved for Gran Turismo and 1990s imports. In the real world it means nothing in terms of actual performance gained. It is not the standard as many people make it out to be.

The PROPER heads/cam package on a 383 bottom end can put down some impressive numbers. Case in point my car, using ported stock heads.

83MonteLT

Boost on a stock bottom end: Waste of time and money. Money could be spent elsewhere. If you throw some boost on a stock block LT1 you'll be making the same amount of power as a heads and cam package. Not to mention you'll be spending more money on boost then a basic heads and cam package! Boost is only for the big dogs with money, money, and *****. You would only want to throw boost if you want big power 700+. Like mentioned, You will need all forged motor before you throw a turbo or procharger. Best recommendations? Spray or H/C/I & compression. Boost on stock block will only get you to about 400rwhp. After that then kaboom. Stock block LT1's can handle more N/A power then boosted power. If you want to add forged pistons, then maybe youll get away with 450rwhp. Save your time and money and do a N/A package!

You wont regret it.

HarleyZ28

iTrader: (2)

Some people dont realize what riding in a car with 450-500rwhp is actually like. They see these videos on youtube of insane built cars but what they fail to realize is some of these people spent years and years building there motors or have jobs that pay six figures and can **** money away like that. Most people if they took a ride in a 500 rwhp car would ****