Cam swap xfi 466
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Cam swap xfi 466
Well im about to take a step to install my new com cam xfi466, iam looking into valve springs i want springs to be able to atleest hold .600 lift i been looking into the beehive 918s my question is also iam running stock leighn hardene pushrods would i have to change out the size of my pushrods or shud i be fine with same stock siZed comp xfi466 with 1.6 nsa rr hard pushrods and guideplates.. Thats my whole setup advice much appreciated thanks guys
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i was going to order the push rod leingh checker, i got the cam second hand new from someone so unfortunetly did not get a cam card but the guy did reccommend the 918's to me i have seen plenty of threads about bad stories about the 918's tho thats what concerns me..lets say if i install everything with stock sized pushrods how can i tell if something will be off or wrong is there anyway to check like if im adjusting my rockers and i can not get the adjustment i want or something, sorry guys i trying to phrase it but i hope i make my question clear..and thanks ramair95TA and englundjd
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so i just watched this video gave me much much better understanding of how i have to go about this.. am i missing anything else other than this im going to try this method and could this also be the reason why certain valve springs fail on some people because of lack of proper valvetrain geometry?
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yea the wrong valvetrain geometry can cause premature valve train failure, some cams (mostly large aggressive ones) will eat springs quicker then others.
ramair: wouldn't the smaller lsa and bigger rockers change things enough to need different pushrods? on my car, my builder said if I went to 1.6rr sometime i'd probably have to get different length pushrods and my heads haven't been milled and the block is the same deck hight and oem head gaskets... or is it not much of a change?
edit: the xfi is one degree smaller lsa then my 304
ramair: wouldn't the smaller lsa and bigger rockers change things enough to need different pushrods? on my car, my builder said if I went to 1.6rr sometime i'd probably have to get different length pushrods and my heads haven't been milled and the block is the same deck hight and oem head gaskets... or is it not much of a change?
edit: the xfi is one degree smaller lsa then my 304
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#8
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your 7.200 stock length is most likely OK but you do want to confirm length. The video shows the use of the COMP PR cheecker. You could also just use your stock PR and do the same test by marking the valve tip with a sharpie pen and lashing the RR, rotate the motor a few times and pull RR to see where the witness mark is. If it is closer to the intake side you need a longer PR and if the mark is towards the exhaust side of the valve stem you need a shorter PR. if it is center you are fine
Instead of counting threads and doing math I use a caliper measure to set the PR checker .050 +/- whatever direction you need to go and recheck. In my case my witness mark was slightly towards exhaust so I set the PR check tool at 7.150" and tested again. For me I went 7.100" but every motor is diffrent. I have a 383 with milled heads and decked block.
I also have the 466 and you want bee hive springs as the cam card says. 918's. Understand the 918 and most any aftermarket spring wants an installed height of 1.80" and stock is 1.70-1.75". Installing the 1.8" spring slightly shorter will increase it's seat and open pressure and coil bind will be slightly closer. Some even run 915's at the 1.75" installed height since they would have more open and seat pressure installed slightly shorter and be close to = the specs of 918's installed at 1.800". Most feel .035" is as close as you want to take a spring towards coil bind. Do the math for the lift of the 466 and the max lift of the 918 but you should be OK. Lift with 1:6 RR of the 466 is .575 int/.570 exh.
since you are running guide plates you want hardened PR but also you really want thicker wall PR like .080. Tric Flow makes them, and many others do to. Aftermarket PR typically come in lengths of increments .050 so that is why I check in those increments with the PR tool. also just go zero lash when checking PR length. lash whatever you want when you do settle on the right length on final install. 1/4-1/2 turn past zero lash
your 7.200 stock length is most likely OK but you do want to confirm length. The video shows the use of the COMP PR cheecker. You could also just use your stock PR and do the same test by marking the valve tip with a sharpie pen and lashing the RR, rotate the motor a few times and pull RR to see where the witness mark is. If it is closer to the intake side you need a longer PR and if the mark is towards the exhaust side of the valve stem you need a shorter PR. if it is center you are fine
Instead of counting threads and doing math I use a caliper measure to set the PR checker .050 +/- whatever direction you need to go and recheck. In my case my witness mark was slightly towards exhaust so I set the PR check tool at 7.150" and tested again. For me I went 7.100" but every motor is diffrent. I have a 383 with milled heads and decked block.
I also have the 466 and you want bee hive springs as the cam card says. 918's. Understand the 918 and most any aftermarket spring wants an installed height of 1.80" and stock is 1.70-1.75". Installing the 1.8" spring slightly shorter will increase it's seat and open pressure and coil bind will be slightly closer. Some even run 915's at the 1.75" installed height since they would have more open and seat pressure installed slightly shorter and be close to = the specs of 918's installed at 1.800". Most feel .035" is as close as you want to take a spring towards coil bind. Do the math for the lift of the 466 and the max lift of the 918 but you should be OK. Lift with 1:6 RR of the 466 is .575 int/.570 exh.
since you are running guide plates you want hardened PR but also you really want thicker wall PR like .080. Tric Flow makes them, and many others do to. Aftermarket PR typically come in lengths of increments .050 so that is why I check in those increments with the PR tool. also just go zero lash when checking PR length. lash whatever you want when you do settle on the right length on final install. 1/4-1/2 turn past zero lash
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your 7.200 stock length is most likely OK but you do want to confirm length. The video shows the use of the COMP PR cheecker. You could also just use your stock PR and do the same test by marking the valve tip with a sharpie pen and lashing the RR, rotate the motor a few times and pull RR to see where the witness mark is. If it is closer to the intake side you need a longer PR and if the mark is towards the exhaust side of the valve stem you need a shorter PR. if it is center you are fine
Instead of counting threads and doing math I use a caliper measure to set the PR checker .050 +/- whatever direction you need to go and recheck. In my case my witness mark was slightly towards exhaust so I set the PR check tool at 7.150" and tested again. For me I went 7.100" but every motor is diffrent. I have a 383 with milled heads and decked block.
I also have the 466 and you want bee hive springs as the cam card says. 918's. Understand the 918 and most any aftermarket spring wants an installed height of 1.80" and stock is 1.70-1.75". Installing the 1.8" spring slightly shorter will increase it's seat and open pressure and coil bind will be slightly closer. Some even run 915's at the 1.75" installed height since they would have more open and seat pressure installed slightly shorter and be close to = the specs of 918's installed at 1.800". Most feel .035" is as close as you want to take a spring towards coil bind. Do the math for the lift of the 466 and the max lift of the 918 but you should be OK. Lift with 1:6 RR of the 466 is .575 int/.570 exh.
since you are running guide plates you want hardened PR but also you really want thicker wall PR like .080. Tric Flow makes them, and many others do to. Aftermarket PR typically come in lengths of increments .050 so that is why I check in those increments with the PR tool. also just go zero lash when checking PR length. lash whatever you want when you do settle on the right length on final install. 1/4-1/2 turn past zero lash
your 7.200 stock length is most likely OK but you do want to confirm length. The video shows the use of the COMP PR cheecker. You could also just use your stock PR and do the same test by marking the valve tip with a sharpie pen and lashing the RR, rotate the motor a few times and pull RR to see where the witness mark is. If it is closer to the intake side you need a longer PR and if the mark is towards the exhaust side of the valve stem you need a shorter PR. if it is center you are fine
Instead of counting threads and doing math I use a caliper measure to set the PR checker .050 +/- whatever direction you need to go and recheck. In my case my witness mark was slightly towards exhaust so I set the PR check tool at 7.150" and tested again. For me I went 7.100" but every motor is diffrent. I have a 383 with milled heads and decked block.
I also have the 466 and you want bee hive springs as the cam card says. 918's. Understand the 918 and most any aftermarket spring wants an installed height of 1.80" and stock is 1.70-1.75". Installing the 1.8" spring slightly shorter will increase it's seat and open pressure and coil bind will be slightly closer. Some even run 915's at the 1.75" installed height since they would have more open and seat pressure installed slightly shorter and be close to = the specs of 918's installed at 1.800". Most feel .035" is as close as you want to take a spring towards coil bind. Do the math for the lift of the 466 and the max lift of the 918 but you should be OK. Lift with 1:6 RR of the 466 is .575 int/.570 exh.
since you are running guide plates you want hardened PR but also you really want thicker wall PR like .080. Tric Flow makes them, and many others do to. Aftermarket PR typically come in lengths of increments .050 so that is why I check in those increments with the PR tool. also just go zero lash when checking PR length. lash whatever you want when you do settle on the right length on final install. 1/4-1/2 turn past zero lash
Thanks for all the info and yeah im deff going to check pr leingh but for the installed height shud i be okay with being .010 or .005 off from the spring install height or should i shim it to be on safe side ? How do you like the 466?