rg501

iTrader: (2)

Days ago i had a coolant flush done, new water pump, new thermostat, heater core flush and bled the system. Turned the car on, temp needle went to 260 within 2 minutes of idling. Turned car off, popped the hood and touched the top of the manifold. it was still cool. thought it might be the temp sensor, shop said temp sensor was fine. Went 3 days without overheating and now on the 4th day, it overheated. sometimes when you come to a stop sign and are just about to stop, the car feels like its misfireing alittle; kind of like a slight chugging. low coolant light is constantly on, however, coolant is full. fans are wired to a manual fan switch so they're on all the time. im taking it to another shop on friday and they're going to do a compression test and a chemical test to see if coolant leaked into the exhaust (i think thats what they ment).

whats the deal?

Mike.

iTrader: (1)

Could be something as simple as air in the coolant system. It sounds like you had this done at a shop? Low coolant light sounds like this going bad: http://shbox.com/1/low_coolant.jpg

Have you noticed any loss of coolant? Take the oil cap off and see if it looks like a chocolate milkshake?

Compression test wouldn't hurt if it puts your mind at ease though.

great421

iTrader: (1)

Open both coolant bleeders when vehicle is warm and make sure the system is free of air pockets first.

rg501

iTrader: (2)

well she passed a compression test. i'll have to check the coolant level sensor once i get it back tmrw. and yes, its at a shop right now. i looked at the oil cap, no milkshake there.

Zlow28

iTrader: (11)

bleed the coolant until you tire yourself, then do it once more. After that, do it one last time the next day.

KFtransam

If need be, raise the nose of the car up while bleeding. So happens that the heater core is the highest point on these cars and is notorious for trapping air

rg501

iTrader: (2)

makes sense, as the air would rise to the highest point.

but I did get the car back and there was apparently a very small crack in the lower radiator hose. replaced that and it's been fine for the past few days. thinking about bleeding it once more just to be safe.

Numba20

iTrader: (1)

Coolant lights are notorious for being stuck on. Head gaskets are no fun to replace, try everything else before hand. Also passing a compression test would be a chance of ruling out a crack in the head, but may want to consider it. If you end up replacing the head gaskets, might want to take the heads to a machine shop and have the pressure tested. (might as well while they are out, because once u get the thing back together, u sure don't wanna turn around and have to take it back apart!) A good indicator would be to jack the car so the the oil drain plug is at the farthest point down, and unscrew it just a tad to let it dribble, if you have coolant coming out (if there is any in there it will bc it's heavier than the oil and always sinks to the bottom) then there is a fat chance one or both heads have a crack, usually in the valve area, but hey it's a good excuse for a port job!!! Lol good luck!

rg501

iTrader: (2)

is there any way of making the coolant light turn off? whenever i have dash lights on like the SES or low coolant light, it makes me feel like im driving a piece of junk lol..

97z28K&N

unplug the coolant sensor and it will shut the light off.

1hotlt1

iTrader: (1)

Double check the thermostat. It happend to me once the sold me a bad one.

KFtransam

Yep, do this.. Mines been unplugged for about a year now