LT1 383 stroker
03-08-2013, 09:51 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Eminence Indiana
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LT1 383 stroker I am currently in the process of building my first engine. I am using the LT1 out of my 96 Trans Am and am going to a 383 stroker. I already have a set of LT4 heads and will be getting a new cam and the edelbrock rpm performer air gap intake. Will I need to get any other major parts? Other than the stroker kit obviously
03-09-2013, 09:16 AM
#5
Launching!
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Greenville, WI
Posts: 231
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What are your goals?
If you want a driver (or racer), sell the LT4 heads and use the money for some good port work on your stockers by one of this sites vendors. If you must do a 383, go forged.
You can achieve great results reasonably, if you plan carefully and learn from the experience that is documented on this site.
If you don't plan and listen, get ready to spend a lot of money (ask me how I know).
If you want a driver (or racer), sell the LT4 heads and use the money for some good port work on your stockers by one of this sites vendors. If you must do a 383, go forged.
You can achieve great results reasonably, if you plan carefully and learn from the experience that is documented on this site.
If you don't plan and listen, get ready to spend a lot of money (ask me how I know).
Last edited by tonskiguy; 03-09-2013 at 09:24 AM. Reason: incomplete
03-09-2013, 11:55 AM
#6
The blind quest for displacement without any comprehension of what it takes to make power and allow a car to use it is a very common mistake as well.
You can gain a LOT of performance doing everything else before the stroker kit.
The $$$$ per gain on a stroker shortblock is very poor. Granted there comes a time when each extra HP cost more than the last.
IMO I wouldn't be considering a stroker unless you are ready to do a rollbar. If you don't want performance at a level that requires a rollbar then you don't need the displacement bump to achieve your goal.
You can gain a LOT of performance doing everything else before the stroker kit.
The $$$$ per gain on a stroker shortblock is very poor. Granted there comes a time when each extra HP cost more than the last.
IMO I wouldn't be considering a stroker unless you are ready to do a rollbar. If you don't want performance at a level that requires a rollbar then you don't need the displacement bump to achieve your goal.
03-10-2013, 02:21 PM
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: fort walton beach,fl
Posts: 1,954
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The air gap is a waste of money, you would need machine work to make the lt4heads match up properly don't use a cast crank. Read for a year first or hit the easy button and just contact Lloyd Elliot and do just top end with refreshed bottom end.
Trending Topics
03-11-2013, 05:25 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Eminence Indiana
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks for all the info. I am planning on this being a slow build and I do only want to do it once. my intention is for it to be able to daily drive but thats not what it will be used for. the main reason i was going to do a 383 build is I dont want to do the same old as everyone else and only do minor mods
03-12-2013, 08:02 AM
#17
A good rotating assembly can be $2k quickly. I would figure $1500 on machining and assembly. Throw in another $1k for fasteners, oilpump surprises etc.
Sure folks will tell you they did it for less but a lot more will tell you they ended up spending more.
Then figure on completely replacing what you have chosen for a topend, the LT4s and Edelbrock are really ignorant choices, you put that together with the heads unported even with a "custom" cam and any decent ported LT1 heads/cam stock shortblock car is going to walk your stroker.
A good topend/valvetrain can be $3000+ in a hurry once you consider things COMPLETELY, gaskets, fasteners, rockers, lifters core heads/intake. You could offset that somewhat by selling what you have.
$500 or so in fuel system work.
How about tuning $200+
Then is the rest of the car supporting this engine, tranny/clutch/converter/driveshaft/axle/suspension,subframe connectors/exhaust
The dollar figure Ramair gave you is for a well thought out and executed setup, not the typical incremental build with a few mistakes along the way, most guys will spend more than that if they honestly add up everything.
Sure folks will tell you they did it for less but a lot more will tell you they ended up spending more.
Then figure on completely replacing what you have chosen for a topend, the LT4s and Edelbrock are really ignorant choices, you put that together with the heads unported even with a "custom" cam and any decent ported LT1 heads/cam stock shortblock car is going to walk your stroker.
A good topend/valvetrain can be $3000+ in a hurry once you consider things COMPLETELY, gaskets, fasteners, rockers, lifters core heads/intake. You could offset that somewhat by selling what you have.
$500 or so in fuel system work.
How about tuning $200+
Then is the rest of the car supporting this engine, tranny/clutch/converter/driveshaft/axle/suspension,subframe connectors/exhaust
The dollar figure Ramair gave you is for a well thought out and executed setup, not the typical incremental build with a few mistakes along the way, most guys will spend more than that if they honestly add up everything.
03-12-2013, 09:31 AM
#18
as said above you can go mild or completley insane lol.........my one suggestion is PLAN PLAN PLAN PLAN......and after than......PLAN some more......have it all worked out on paper first, price it out, then build it..........as for a bottom end a good performance machine shop is usually around $300 to bore and hone, $100 to hot tank, $325ish to balance depending on moly needed, $125 to clearance rods/mains, 40 to hang pistons on rods and size pins.........as for parts if your running an aftermarket crank 90% are chamfered journals so youll need to run the HN bearings from clevite or equalivent....at that point your in about $175 in rods, main and cam bearings.....then a decent forged crank is around 650 plus a run of the mill h beam rod is around $425, hang some run of the mill forged pistons and rings and your up another $600ish.....id reccomend running gm replacement main bolts unless you plan on having the line honed at a minimum which is 175-300 depending on what needs to be done......take your time dont rush, when i built the 386 i have now i took my damn time doing it.....
again, PLAN
again, PLAN
03-12-2013, 12:05 PM
#19
Staging Lane
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 73
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
as said above you can go mild or completley insane lol.........my one suggestion is PLAN PLAN PLAN PLAN......and after than......PLAN some more......have it all worked out on paper first, price it out, then build it..........as for a bottom end a good performance machine shop is usually around $300 to bore and hone, $100 to hot tank, $325ish to balance depending on moly needed, $125 to clearance rods/mains, 40 to hang pistons on rods and size pins.........as for parts if your running an aftermarket crank 90% are chamfered journals so youll need to run the HN bearings from clevite or equalivent....at that point your in about $175 in rods, main and cam bearings.....then a decent forged crank is around 650 plus a run of the mill h beam rod is around $425, hang some run of the mill forged pistons and rings and your up another $600ish.....id reccomend running gm replacement main bolts unless you plan on having the line honed at a minimum which is 175-300 depending on what needs to be done......take your time dont rush, when i built the 386 i have now i took my damn time doing it.....
again, PLAN
again, PLAN
Couldn't agree more. My buddy and I build our first stroker in high school and before we knew it, we were 6k in. Machine shop bored/honed/steamed and installed freeze plugs/cam bearings. Don't go cheap on your internals. We made mistakes, ended up ordering the wrong pistons, all sorts of stupid ****. Patience is key, don't get over excited and rush. Do it all right the first time and then forget about it.