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LT1 383 stroker

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Old 03-08-2013, 09:51 PM   #1
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Default LT1 383 stroker

I am currently in the process of building my first engine. I am using the LT1 out of my 96 Trans Am and am going to a 383 stroker. I already have a set of LT4 heads and will be getting a new cam and the edelbrock rpm performer air gap intake. Will I need to get any other major parts? Other than the stroker kit obviously
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:16 PM   #2
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Whats mods do you have now? Are you plannin on porting heads? Also whats your goals for the car? Is it dd, strip/street/ all out drag car?
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Old 03-08-2013, 10:28 PM   #3
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You need to scrap your plans and start over again in a year. You are so far off right now you just need to stop.
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Old 03-09-2013, 05:53 AM   #4
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Do a search, one of the most commonly asked newbie questions.
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Old 03-09-2013, 09:16 AM   #5
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What are your goals?
If you want a driver (or racer), sell the LT4 heads and use the money for some good port work on your stockers by one of this sites vendors. If you must do a 383, go forged.
You can achieve great results reasonably, if you plan carefully and learn from the experience that is documented on this site.
If you don't plan and listen, get ready to spend a lot of money (ask me how I know).

Last edited by tonskiguy; 03-09-2013 at 09:24 AM. Reason: incomplete
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:55 AM   #6
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The blind quest for displacement without any comprehension of what it takes to make power and allow a car to use it is a very common mistake as well.

You can gain a LOT of performance doing everything else before the stroker kit.
The $$$$ per gain on a stroker shortblock is very poor. Granted there comes a time when each extra HP cost more than the last.

IMO I wouldn't be considering a stroker unless you are ready to do a rollbar. If you don't want performance at a level that requires a rollbar then you don't need the displacement bump to achieve your goal.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:21 PM   #7
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The air gap is a waste of money, you would need machine work to make the lt4heads match up properly don't use a cast crank. Read for a year first or hit the easy button and just contact Lloyd Elliot and do just top end with refreshed bottom end.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:50 PM   #8
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I always believe cubic inches is cubic inches, the more the better, even with the same top end,IMO. If you're going to open up the bottom end, do a stroker, instead of just doing a refresh. Do it right one time and be done with it.
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Old 03-10-2013, 02:55 PM   #9
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adding displacement isn't bad unless you compromise the topend to accomplish it which is what a LOT of folks do they blindly look for displacement even if it means cast crank and unported heads
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Old 03-10-2013, 04:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 96capricemgr View Post
adding displacement isn't bad unless you compromise the topend to accomplish it which is what a LOT of folks do they blindly look for displacement even if it means cast crank and unported heads
You're right. And by what I said about doing it right the first time, I meant with quality(forged)parts of course,,crank,rods,pistons,etc.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:25 PM   #11
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thanks for all the info. I am planning on this being a slow build and I do only want to do it once. my intention is for it to be able to daily drive but thats not what it will be used for. the main reason i was going to do a 383 build is I dont want to do the same old as everyone else and only do minor mods
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:55 PM   #12
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The thing is halfassed stroker like you are planning is "same as everyone else".
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:21 PM   #13
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whats the price on a complete rebuild to make it a 383 including parts and machine work
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:30 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unioncarpenter84 View Post
whats the price on a complete rebuild to make it a 383 including parts and machine work
A vague question. Could be anywhere from $2,000 to $10,000, depending on the parts, labor, etc.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:37 PM   #15
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my labor pulling it out.

sending it to the machine shop to get done and the bottom end assembled?

how much u got into urs ramair95ta
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:20 PM   #16
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my labor pulling it out.

sending it to the machine shop to get done and the bottom end assembled?

how much u got into urs ramair95ta
Top to bottom about $12k.
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Old 03-12-2013, 08:02 AM   #17
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A good rotating assembly can be $2k quickly. I would figure $1500 on machining and assembly. Throw in another $1k for fasteners, oilpump surprises etc.
Sure folks will tell you they did it for less but a lot more will tell you they ended up spending more.
Then figure on completely replacing what you have chosen for a topend, the LT4s and Edelbrock are really ignorant choices, you put that together with the heads unported even with a "custom" cam and any decent ported LT1 heads/cam stock shortblock car is going to walk your stroker.
A good topend/valvetrain can be $3000+ in a hurry once you consider things COMPLETELY, gaskets, fasteners, rockers, lifters core heads/intake. You could offset that somewhat by selling what you have.
$500 or so in fuel system work.
How about tuning $200+

Then is the rest of the car supporting this engine, tranny/clutch/converter/driveshaft/axle/suspension,subframe connectors/exhaust
The dollar figure Ramair gave you is for a well thought out and executed setup, not the typical incremental build with a few mistakes along the way, most guys will spend more than that if they honestly add up everything.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:31 AM   #18
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as said above you can go mild or completley insane lol.........my one suggestion is PLAN PLAN PLAN PLAN......and after than......PLAN some more......have it all worked out on paper first, price it out, then build it..........as for a bottom end a good performance machine shop is usually around $300 to bore and hone, $100 to hot tank, $325ish to balance depending on moly needed, $125 to clearance rods/mains, 40 to hang pistons on rods and size pins.........as for parts if your running an aftermarket crank 90% are chamfered journals so youll need to run the HN bearings from clevite or equalivent....at that point your in about $175 in rods, main and cam bearings.....then a decent forged crank is around 650 plus a run of the mill h beam rod is around $425, hang some run of the mill forged pistons and rings and your up another $600ish.....id reccomend running gm replacement main bolts unless you plan on having the line honed at a minimum which is 175-300 depending on what needs to be done......take your time dont rush, when i built the 386 i have now i took my damn time doing it.....

again, PLAN
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:05 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quik95lt1 View Post
as said above you can go mild or completley insane lol.........my one suggestion is PLAN PLAN PLAN PLAN......and after than......PLAN some more......have it all worked out on paper first, price it out, then build it..........as for a bottom end a good performance machine shop is usually around $300 to bore and hone, $100 to hot tank, $325ish to balance depending on moly needed, $125 to clearance rods/mains, 40 to hang pistons on rods and size pins.........as for parts if your running an aftermarket crank 90% are chamfered journals so youll need to run the HN bearings from clevite or equalivent....at that point your in about $175 in rods, main and cam bearings.....then a decent forged crank is around 650 plus a run of the mill h beam rod is around $425, hang some run of the mill forged pistons and rings and your up another $600ish.....id reccomend running gm replacement main bolts unless you plan on having the line honed at a minimum which is 175-300 depending on what needs to be done......take your time dont rush, when i built the 386 i have now i took my damn time doing it.....

again, PLAN

Couldn't agree more. My buddy and I build our first stroker in high school and before we knew it, we were 6k in. Machine shop bored/honed/steamed and installed freeze plugs/cam bearings. Don't go cheap on your internals. We made mistakes, ended up ordering the wrong pistons, all sorts of stupid ****. Patience is key, don't get over excited and rush. Do it all right the first time and then forget about it.
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:18 PM   #20
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Then there are issues like most machineshops will try and shoot for a compression ration LOWER than stock.

If you want to do this well you need to STOP looking to do it any time soon.
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