slowpokeLA

SO I plan on in stalling my cam a custom grind cam 231/239 571/.587110LSA and going with the 100.00 Alex parts valve springs[150.04] for everthing and was looking for some cheap 1.6RR...IM only being cheap because I saving for LE trickflow heads and a bigger cam...

I have 58mmTB, LT headers, 4.10gears, 3200 Stall...Just looking to by time to save more money...

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

fwiw valve springs are NO place to cheap out, break a spring and you'll be building an entire motor.......

F0x Slaughter

Also why did you have a cam custom ground then you say you are saving up for a new one?

Yeah I could put a cam in my car right now, but I will be building a 385 this summer so why would I waste money on a cam that isn't going to be what I want for my 385?

TA_Moscow

iTrader: (4)

Waste of money today will give additional troubles further. What for get a cam right now? To look for the customer to buy it later. Well, IMHO start saving money for further complete upgrade. hope you understand my english

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

"Slowpoke", you have a PM...

nomoneyz

iTrader: (15)

Sell your cam and save up the extra cash, no point in doing work twice and wasting money on subpar parts. I wouldn't buy cheap valvetrain parts at all. I think you need more research and to think about where you want your car.

slowpokeLA

So how many times do people change there setup...alot i had about 60% of parts bought bottom end, juice"go fast juice", headers,...stuff like that. What i didnt have was the rest of LE top end...intake(still waiting on) and heads thats why i never bought RR or VALVE springs...so i had a change of plans fill like going all motor no power adders...

So for the time being since Im down there why not put the cam in theres nothing else to do in St.Joseph MO...

englundjd

dont run those springs with that cam. there not that durable. ask me how i know

slowpokeLA

Thanks for the info... Well i guess im going to get these than Lunati 73925K2 spring kit. Springs, retainers, locks, locators and seals. From LE for 250.00 is that good of go qith some thing else....and do i really need RRs...i dont care what these other people think i just dont want to be that dude at the track standing there...

Motorvation

Watch out for cheap rocker arms too. I have plenty of broken rockers from our 355 that had a .609 lift solid roller. We've broken Pro form's HD series, bent Harland sharps, and broke some Omega gear crap. I understand the budget thing, but I really like Comp's pro magnums. A much bigger fulcrum to spread the load, but our Dragster has Crane golds (came with the car), and they seem to hold up well too. The springs on the Dragster are 700#/inch, and sees just under 8 grand. A true testament to the Cranes durability. If you must go cheap, go to Ohio Crankshaft's site.

Also, be sure to check your clearance for the 1.6 RRs. You may have to remove material from the inside (closer to the rocker stud) of the pushrod hole. I'm not sure if LT1s have this issue, but many Gen I heads do.

slowpokeLA

Thanks for the site you think they will last about 4 months...

slowpokeLA

Can i use stock pushrods or will 7.200 pushrods work...and do i need guide plates if there 7.200 reason a friends has some that he will give me

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If you would actually start looking at quality parts you would save yourself some money.

slowpokeLA

I have been lookin, Im just going to get everything from LE valve spring kit, pushrods, guide plates, roller rockers for a good price.

Motorvation

You'll need to figure out the length. This is done by picking up an adjustable push rod and a "test" spring on the valve. You need to rotate the engine and look at the rocker's position on the valve. The OC rockers aren't self aligning so hardend pushrods, and guideplates would be recommended.