Bern1982

Ok dumb question, engine light has been on scince i bought the car, tried two gm sensors light comes back on. I was thinking it was wiring but some time the light goes out and stays out untill i start the car again. The plug does get coverd in oil but i am replacing the timing cover gasket and seals this weekend and going to look at the reluctor wheel while i have it apart. Any ideas or info would be great.

tricked94camaro

iTrader: (1)

how do you know its the crank sensor?

96lt1m6

iTrader: (31)

Have you scanned the car?
CPS is basically for emissions.......

Bern1982

I scan the car and delete the code everytime.

tricked94camaro

iTrader: (1)

CPS can also mean Cam position sensor.....

tricked94camaro

iTrader: (1)

I hope you mean IGNITION, not emissions.....

BOOSTED AFR

CKP is typically used for Crankshaft Position Sensor and it is true that the CKP is basically used for misfire detection in the OBDII cars.

Now the CMP or Camshaft Position Sensor is a different story

Bern1982

Got the timing cover off, the reluctor wheel key notch was rounded out and has alot of movement. Going to order one from the dealer monday. Hopefully i can get this back together next weekend and put some miles on it before ocean city.

Bern1982

The keyway is only sticking up about a hair. Just enough for the wheel to catch. Does any one have a pic of how far the keyway should stick out of the crank to catch the reluctor wheel?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I would think that the key should pick up at least 50% of the slot in the reluctor wheel. It has to be held firmly in place....

Bern1982

The key is nowhere near 50%. Something isn't right.

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

Does it look like it's been chewed up? If you're not the original owner of the car, does it look like the timing cover has been off before?

If all you're interested in is getting the car running again, most auto parts stores sell packages of Woodruff keys, in various sizes, and you should be able to find one that will work. If you can't find one that's 100% correct, you can take one that's a little large and file/grind it down.

Bern1982

I was told by a friend that knew the one of the owners that the crank might have been changed. That explains the aftermarket oil pan gasket being ripped. I replaced that years ago. But it looks like the wrong key is in the crank. So now I'm going to replace the reluctor and find the correct key. Also changitthe hub , it looks like the long one for 93-95. Just to be safe.

Bern1982

Does anyone have the measurements of the different crank hubs? I want to make sure the one I have is correct

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

I have a '96 LT1, and I replaced the OE damper hub (non keyed) with a Power Bond keyed hub. I have the OE piece on my shelf, and I just measured it. From the "ridge" that's just outside where the seal rides, to the inside (engine side) of the hub, it's 1.125", give or take 0.010".....

Hope this helps.