94Pontiac

iTrader: (4)

So I'm changing the valve seals on a lt1 that sat inside the shop for 5 years. When I reset the valve lash (hyd) lifters, Will they have drained the all the oil out? I was planning on doing it while it's on the engine stand... The intake is still on, so I can't really soak the lifters in oil...

nascarnate326

iTrader: (1)

from what I understand they pump up with oil pretty fast, you may be fine to just hit the key.

You could also change the oil, that would get some oil in the top before its started.

94Pontiac

iTrader: (4)

The motors sitting on an engine stand...I was hoping to set the lash before I run it....

shbox

Since you set lash when the valve is not open, the lifter should not be compressed. There is a spring in it that will keep it extended. You should be able to set lash. Just make sure you set it and go on to the next one. Don't always expect the ones you already did to seem perfectly ok as you go along. You might be able to get by until the engine is started. It might turn out fine. Worth a try, since they at least had oil in them in the past (and may still have enough).

94Pontiac

iTrader: (4)

Thanks shbox. Ill give it a shot. I guess if they're a bit loose I can go over them after I've ran it. Just gonna be careful not to over tighten them. Is it worth it to pour oil into the lifter valley?

shbox

Some extra lube will hurt nothing as long as you don't overfill. Pour some on top of your valvetrain.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Make sure the pushrod cups on the rockers and the pushrods have oil on them. Instead of twisting the pushrods, wiggle up/down to find zero lash. Far more accurate.

94Pontiac

iTrader: (4)

Ok will do....it's all fairly dry. Wish I could prime the motor without pulling the intake. So chances are if I set them without it running, I'm going to have to run the motor and reset them again...right

lt1slowz28

Depends. You could be dead on and not worry or it could be close enough to run and get it right

cardo0

I read this all the time where someone suspects the lifter cup might collapse and ruin the adjustment. So i went out to the garage and tried to push in a lifter cup with a p-rod under a block of wood using a lifter that had been sitting for over 2 years. I even turned the lifter upside down and pushed the p-rod with lifter on top on a 2x4 with all my weight (almost a ton) and all it did was make a dent in the wood. Tried it with a couple of lifters - no that cup didn't move.
So if u have lifters u can try this for yourself and prove me wrong. But i think this is a myth that the lifter cup will get pushed or drop out before u find zero lash.

cardo

lt1slowz28

Unless yours are collapsed already... prime motor and try again

cardo0

Get a clue and take a lifter apart once then try and get that cup back in.

Let us know how it goes,
cardo

lt1slowz28

Excuse me?

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

You don't have to prime the motor. When a healthy lifter is primed the socket should be up against the retainer ring before an adjustment is made. The spring that is in the lifter body assures the socket is against the rings therefore when finding lash you should not need to prime the engine. The only difference is since the springs are soft you have to really pay attention when finding zero lash compared to finding it on a primed lifter. If yFou really want to be thorough for peace of mind you can first adjust the lifters before they're primed, start the engine, lifters will prime in a few seconds and then adjust while the engine is running. Once you shut the engine off some lifters tend to bleed off so it's back to square one.



Wow.....

94Pontiac

iTrader: (4)

Got the valves set last night. I just did 1/2 turn past no up and down movement on the p rod. I didnt want to go too tight. Ill run it and check them again. Thx for the tips

lt1slowz28

Make sure the poly locks are good n tight

cardo0

The lifter pair u are setting have to be on the base circle of the cam - u have to be certain of this other wise u are wasting your time. U can identify the lifters are on base circle by looking at rocker arms and knowing which pair of valves/lifters are fully shut (base circle) and which pair of valves/lifters are partially open in overlap for the pair of pistons that reach TDC at the same time. If u don't uderstand this u need to keep reading until u do - maybe draw diagrams until u do.

Hope this helps,
cardo

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I keep reading what you've posted and I still don't understand what it is you are spraying. What does any of this have to do with what he said? He's talking about not setting the valves too tight after zero lash is found. If you are attempting to explain how to find the base circle, why not supply some resources...

cardo0

Why don't u let the OP ask the questions? Maybe he understands what i said and u don't.

cardo

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

I do understand, and you're high.