Changed timing cover seals, opti, damper, now runs rough
05-31-2013, 04:48 PM
#1
Changed timing cover seals, opti, damper, now runs rough Thanks in large part to this board I was able to change my water pump drive seal and opti seal. I decided to install a spare AC Delco opti I have to see if it would resolve a bucking issue I've been having among other things. This is a brand new opti that has never been used.
I also put on a new Dorman harmonic damper that is easier to remove with the aftermarket hub I have.
The first few times I tried to start the car, it would turn over fine a few times then stop. If I kept holding the key, it would turn over a few more times then stop, it wouldn't fire. Eventually it would fire but not try to run. The tach would jump to 500-750 rpm then fall to zero.
Once it held idle for a few seconds but was real shakey and the exhaust stank. Now it will consistently fire then die immediately.
If I start it and give it gas, it will run. I have to keep giving it gas because it won't idle at all. It still shakes and stinks but I can rev the engine at least up to 3K, didn't try any further. There are no pops from the exhaust but when I looked at the ground behind the tail pipes it was covered in soot. There was no visible exhaust either. As soon as I took my foot off the gas the engine died.
I'm positive the opti is connected correctly, no crossed wires. I'm positive the dowel pin is in the correct socket. The opti was flush against the mounting holes when I pressed it in (on the one millionth attempt
)
There are no trouble codes. Everything on my scanmaster looks normal except for the knock retard which was understandably varying. The spark advance was also varying, too but that also makes sense if it's running poorly.
My gut feeling says there's a misfire and the opti is bad, but I want to hear what others have to say.
I also put on a new Dorman harmonic damper that is easier to remove with the aftermarket hub I have.
The first few times I tried to start the car, it would turn over fine a few times then stop. If I kept holding the key, it would turn over a few more times then stop, it wouldn't fire. Eventually it would fire but not try to run. The tach would jump to 500-750 rpm then fall to zero.
Once it held idle for a few seconds but was real shakey and the exhaust stank. Now it will consistently fire then die immediately.
If I start it and give it gas, it will run. I have to keep giving it gas because it won't idle at all. It still shakes and stinks but I can rev the engine at least up to 3K, didn't try any further. There are no pops from the exhaust but when I looked at the ground behind the tail pipes it was covered in soot. There was no visible exhaust either. As soon as I took my foot off the gas the engine died.
I'm positive the opti is connected correctly, no crossed wires. I'm positive the dowel pin is in the correct socket. The opti was flush against the mounting holes when I pressed it in (on the one millionth attempt
)There are no trouble codes. Everything on my scanmaster looks normal except for the knock retard which was understandably varying. The spark advance was also varying, too but that also makes sense if it's running poorly.
My gut feeling says there's a misfire and the opti is bad, but I want to hear what others have to say.
05-31-2013, 06:26 PM
#2
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considering it ran better then this before you took things apart id go back and put the previous opti on.... but also look over everything to make sure you didn't mess something p or maybe the spark plug wires aren't on tight enough. I know its a pain to get the lower ones on passenger side were the asseccory bracket is
06-17-2013, 04:03 AM
#5
So I think I can safely give this thread some closure.
I tore down the front of the engine again paying close attention to the work I did. Everything was assembled properly. It looks like I bought an opti that was faulty out of the box.
I bought it back in 2009 from thepartsladi when I got the new engine. That ebay seller was getting nothing but outstanding reviews from members on this board and others. Looks like even they weren't immune to the optispark's reputation.
I was getting a no-start situation back then too and replaced it with a different opti (the one I've been using since) and it still didn't start until I replaced the MAF. All this time I thought the MAF was to blame and the opti was fine.
Now I got the car all back together again with the opti I've been using all these years and it started and ran just fine.
Maybe I'll dissect it... or use it as a $250 door stop.
I tore down the front of the engine again paying close attention to the work I did. Everything was assembled properly. It looks like I bought an opti that was faulty out of the box.
I bought it back in 2009 from thepartsladi when I got the new engine. That ebay seller was getting nothing but outstanding reviews from members on this board and others. Looks like even they weren't immune to the optispark's reputation.
I was getting a no-start situation back then too and replaced it with a different opti (the one I've been using since) and it still didn't start until I replaced the MAF. All this time I thought the MAF was to blame and the opti was fine.
Now I got the car all back together again with the opti I've been using all these years and it started and ran just fine.
Maybe I'll dissect it... or use it as a $250 door stop.
