Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

I think it might be one of these bastards, but I don't see where to hook them up at. Any advice om where they go, or how to bypass them would be awesome! thanks in advance!

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

The small one way connector that looks like its in your hand is just for testing or priming the pump.

What wiring did you change? the dash harness or the interior harness?

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

I changed the interior, dash, and engine. All that stayed the same was the door harness.

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

Could it be the prime lead not giving me fuel?

shbox

The prime lead is only for testing. You don't normally connect it to anything. What did you use for a guide for matching up leads between the two years? Some adaptation is required. You can find lead differences here.

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

ah, well I used shbox, but I will confess that I'm not an expert at wiring. Almost everything bolted up perfectly except for a few interior things(changed interior to a 99'). I guess I just assumed it would work fine. So do I need to update my fuel pump too, or just rewire some stuff?

edit: just realized you ARE shbox! I'm not worthy!

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

I read somewhere that if the computer doesn't read any oil pressure or anything that it won't allow the fuel pump to work. Can anyone confirm this?

upon further inspection, it looks like I broke both of my oil pressure sensors putting the motor in( though I think one was already broken)

shbox

Our cars don't use the oil pressure reading for anything other than the gauge.

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

****. Well anyway, I got a wire and touched the prime lead to the battery and it primed the pump, so I know it isn't the pump itself. I guess I will just have to get a voltage and pressure tester and do some troubleshooting

BP Automotive

iTrader: (3)

You changed the dash harness to the 95, engine harness to 95, and the engine to 95. All this is correct?

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

dash and engine harnesses are changed to a 95' my engine is a 93'

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

What year is your PCM?

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

It is a 95' as well

shbox

Either your relay is not getting power from the fuse or it is not getting the signal to operate from the PCM.

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

Just checked my relay wires with a voltmeter, and the red wire has 12 volts, but the other three don't. Is the red one the only wire that should show voltage?

shbox

What red wire? http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm3.jpg

-Pink should have +12v with key on.

-Dark green/white should have +12v when the computer commands the pump on (for 2 seconds when the key is first turned on and continuously after the engine is running)

-Black/White = continuous ground

-Gray = +12v to pump when relay is activated

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

here are my discoveries so far:
pink: 12v
green/white: a very small reading at first then nothing
gray: nothing

at the connector behind the back seat:
the first hole(larger one): nothing
the middle: 7.5v
the last: nothing

the relay never clicks on(I have three of them and none worked)

the vats module I am using is from mu 93' (it is the only one that allows the car to turn over, and the security light goes of after 2 seconds)
. the 95' module will flash security and won't let me do anything.

my circuit tester only lights up on the pink wire at the relay, and at the middle wire at the connector(though it glows faintly for that wire)

first of all, sorry for the long windedness, but I know that more info makes it easier.
second of all, you are a saint, thanks for all the help so far!

shbox

You may need to ohm out the green/white wire to make sure it is good from the relay to the PCM. It should be checked to be sure it is not grounded, also.

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

It isn't grounded. Now, what is the best way to check ohms? Would it just be best to disconnect the wires from the computer and do it that way?

Tolley's94z28

iTrader: (4)

When measuring the green and white wire right after the computer, it will show a very small voltage reading right after turning on the key, but it is negligible (usually less than 1v) and it immediately goes away. I am getting power from the ignition and battery wires to the pcm though, so something is not letting the pcm send power to the relay.

could it be because I am using a 95' ecu and wiring harnesses with a 93' vats module?