unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

Okay so far I got the car have wired and plumbed

The nitrous kit consist of HSW wet kit with jets from 75-175
I got a purge kit, heater

I got a fuel pressure safety switch a micro switch and still going to use a push button.


Now the question is for the best bang for the buck what's the best

Window switch to use
the best way to take timing
what plugs

with the set up below what's the most u feel it can handle


Right now im at 12.36 @ 109 with a 1.68 60'

what will I gain with a 100 shot




Here's my build info:

MOTOR:
Lt1 350 bored .30 over
Heads ported and polished (flows: intake 278, exhaust 197)
Comp Cams 230/242 .510/.540 113 lsa
Comp Cams Pro Magnum 1.6 roller rockers 7/16" studs
Comp Cams 987 Dual Valve Springs
SI Silver-line Series Valves,(2.00" intake and 1.57 Exhaust)
Eagle H beam connecting rods
JE Forged Nitrous Pistons
Crane Hardened Push Rods

INTAKE:
Ported Intake Runners to match Heads
K&N Cold Air Induction
Relocated Air Intake Temp Sensor

EXHAUST
Hooker Headers Long tubes.
Borla Cat back

FUEL:
FMS 30lbs. Injectors
New Stock Pump

TRANSMISSION:
Rebuilt Stock Automatic Trans go Shift Kit
Hayden 24,000 Tranny Cooler
PI VIG 3500 Stall Converter

SUSPENSION:

UMI lower control arms
UMI adjustable pan hard bar
UMI tunnel mount torque arm
QA1 adjustable 50/50 drag shocks in rear
Drag Bags in both rear springs
Stock 10 bolt with 4:10s

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

Anyone?

93 LT1 Vette

My setup is a Nitrous Outlet adjustable wet kit. I'm currently jetted for 125hp shot .057N .033F.

Fuel pump is a Walbro 255
Stock injectors
Plugs are NGK TR6 gapped at .035
My Tune is a PCM4less nitrous tune which I run N/A also.
Safety interlocks are a WOT switch and a fuel pressure safety switch
I also have a nitrous filter prior to the solenoid.
No window switch, I bring it on at 3000rpms by way of a push button.

Depending on how you hook, 100hp could gain you 8 to 12 mph and cut a full second off your ET in the quarter. With the forged lower end, a 250hp shot is possible or a 2 gun 100 and 200 2nd stage.

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

Should I gap my plugs the same? Wow seems like that car is running strong

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

U spray thur the shifts?

biggriff

iTrader: (3)

I am similar to 93vette, I have
ZEX 150 shot
255 fuel pump
ZEX window switch (WOT) spray between 3000 and 6000- misses shifts
purge and heater
Crane Hi6 with TR
1.6RR CAI
I run TR6 @ .35 as well
and PCM tune

I run 12.6 on motor and 11.6 with 1.64 - 60' on shot...car does have some suspension and gears as well...

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

What gears u have and what's it shifting at? What window switch u got

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

I gotta get it tuned not believing in a pcm tune

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

U hitting off the line?

93 LT1 Vette

First I think a window switch is great for a strip car, especially a bracket car. But I do most of my work on the streets and street conditions dictate/traction, some times I can't bring the squeeze on until 30 or 40 mph or the tires go up in smoke. Most races are from a 30 roll so I hit it there but sometime I got to wait so I may not bring it on until 4000rpms.

Once I hit the button, the spray is on until I come off the WOT switch. I put the shifter in D drive and let the tranny do the work.

I don't spray out of the hole on the street at all. At the track as soon as I see 3000 rpms. My convertor flashes at 2600 so I'd say just before the 60ft mark I'm on the button.

PCM4less tune was dead on for my application, AFR and timing wise. It is a little fat N/A but not bad.

3.07 gears, 3250 pounds with me in it, shiftkit, 2800 stall.

O yeah, 11.85 at 117 on the 125 shot 1.85 60ft

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

ya I was looking at the summit brand window switch seems like a good deal

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-830452-1

dougxqmy

My setup is a Nitrous Outlet adjustable wet kit.

nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

Msd window switch, wot switch, fuel pressure switch, I don't run a bottle heater because of a few reasons, a good fuel pump, timing can be pulled via an ignition retard box or in the tune.
I didn't see What your ring gap was or your ptw clearance? Think about a second stage with anything over 150 shot for street use. Or if you want a progressive controller...

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

my ring gap is around 40 I believe on tr6 plugs is that okay??

prob wont hit it no more than 150

Stroked96Bowtie

iTrader: (22)

I used the MSD Digital6 on my nitrous LT1 car, always worked flawlessly. Wired it up so the timing pulled when 12volts were applied to the solenoids.

Be careful hitting it out of the whole on slicks with that 10bolt.

95z-cross-eyed

iTrader: (1)

Ditto on the MSD Digital 6. That's what I ran before the 24x conversion.

If you are interested I still have mine, It's just sitting here I was holding on to incase I had to go back to opti. But the 24x seems to be working great now. I got that a msd coil, and the needed fbody harness still as well. Just let me know.

biggriff

iTrader: (3)

I have Motive 4:10 and ZEX window switch...3000 rpm off the hit...6000 off....car pulls 1.6 60' and runs 11.6ish with stock motor....

hvyss

On my scat forged 385 we run nitrous outlet noids on a single nozzle on a 200 shot. Using a NOS progressive which has a window switch built in. A Walbro a400 in tank pump and a MSD digital 6 ignition. Running NGK 9 series non projected tip plugs gapped at .035. Pulling 3 degrees per 50 shot. Car runs 9.90's @ 4200lbs.

unioncarpenter84

iTrader: (22)

whats the best gap I should run if ur off by a little does it really matter