High Pressure Oil Pump
09-07-2013, 10:41 PM
#1
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High Pressure Oil Pump I finally got the in the car together last month. Whats a good recommended high pressure pump? Ive been doing Auto-cross, road racing, along with a bunch of other RPM physical abuse. Currently im running around 35-45 between 2000-6000. I wanting around 50-70 PSI on the safer side. High Volume will do me no good at this point.
Havent had time to put the new build together parts are sitting in the garage about to build up dust, went with a custom grind SR 242/254 112 LSA with 1.7rr scorpions, Isky 295D springs, Smith Bros pushrods, Stock bottom end, Sealed power rings, Clevite 77 bearing, Stock Ported Heads ported by Laz at Mesa. Only thing is the oil pump before putting the thing together, balance, condition, resize.
Motor will see 65-7000 pretty often. Thought about Dry Sump, just needed to save a few extra dollars for Tick Clutch.
Havent had time to put the new build together parts are sitting in the garage about to build up dust, went with a custom grind SR 242/254 112 LSA with 1.7rr scorpions, Isky 295D springs, Smith Bros pushrods, Stock bottom end, Sealed power rings, Clevite 77 bearing, Stock Ported Heads ported by Laz at Mesa. Only thing is the oil pump before putting the thing together, balance, condition, resize.
Motor will see 65-7000 pretty often. Thought about Dry Sump, just needed to save a few extra dollars for Tick Clutch.
09-08-2013, 06:58 AM
#3
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Completely not necessary if you are running stock bearing clearances on your engine. Higher pressure does not mean better lubrication.
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/adva...5/#post4458190
http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/adva...5/#post4458190
09-08-2013, 07:43 AM
#4
The higher the oil pressure, especially if you're running stock bearing clearances, the more strain on the pump, the bypass spring, the drive gear on the distributor, and the oil filter case.
IMHO, if you're running auto-x, you need an oil pan that will control the oil from sloshing, more than you need a high pressure pump.
IMHO, if you're running auto-x, you need an oil pan that will control the oil from sloshing, more than you need a high pressure pump.
09-08-2013, 10:06 AM
#5
I agree with all above. I turn mine 8500 every pass with 45 psi.
Best money would be for something like a Canton pan. They are built like a road race pan. Not like ant drag race pan I have ever seen. Avoid thick oil also. Don't fire it up cold and make a run. You need the oil warm.
Best money would be for something like a Canton pan. They are built like a road race pan. Not like ant drag race pan I have ever seen. Avoid thick oil also. Don't fire it up cold and make a run. You need the oil warm.
09-08-2013, 10:54 AM
#6
Take a look at oil viscosity, IMO it is more important than the oil pump you are looking at. Stock oil pump is all you will ever need in pretty much anything.
You need at minimum a 10-40 synthetic in the car, change it regular.
Oil shearing and breakdown due to heat is what is the real engine killer in track day rides.
I currently am running Mobil 1 0-40 Euro in my track day car.
Pennzoil Platinum EURO is also good but it has to be ordered.
You need at minimum a 10-40 synthetic in the car, change it regular.
Oil shearing and breakdown due to heat is what is the real engine killer in track day rides.
I currently am running Mobil 1 0-40 Euro in my track day car.
Pennzoil Platinum EURO is also good but it has to be ordered.
09-08-2013, 02:43 PM
#7
I run ~10 quarts of 20w-50 in my car, because of alcohol injection the oil gets milked/diluted. I run a 10554 Melling Select, a 6-7 quart Stefs pan, 3 quart accumulator, and a ~1 quart filter. I have 70 psi cold and 50-60 warm.
If you are worried about oil pressure, most pans are designed for acceleration and cornering, it is when you get on the brakes at 150mph at the end of a track that all the oil flows forward and you see the oil pressure fall off. An accumulator will force oil into the engine if the the pressure falls off from the oil pickup being uncovered.
You'll see the wear on the #2/#3 main bearings without the accumulator if you have big trap speeds.
My advice, get a 1quart accumulator and the solenoid, it is better for your engine on starting.
A video of my accumulator.
If you are worried about oil pressure, most pans are designed for acceleration and cornering, it is when you get on the brakes at 150mph at the end of a track that all the oil flows forward and you see the oil pressure fall off. An accumulator will force oil into the engine if the the pressure falls off from the oil pickup being uncovered.
You'll see the wear on the #2/#3 main bearings without the accumulator if you have big trap speeds.
My advice, get a 1quart accumulator and the solenoid, it is better for your engine on starting.
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09-08-2013, 02:48 PM
#8
Yeah, I ran a HP pump on my old setup and it was a constant pain in the ***. All the oil ended up in the heads and it would send pressure to zip on braking after a Drag pass.
Which sucked, but I gotta believe for circuit racing, it's a disaster waiting to happen.
If you're determined to do it, I'd open the return drain holes in the heads considerably, particularly at the back … .
Which sucked, but I gotta believe for circuit racing, it's a disaster waiting to happen.
If you're determined to do it, I'd open the return drain holes in the heads considerably, particularly at the back … .
09-08-2013, 02:55 PM
#9
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does it really make a difference unless you open up the oil passages nothing really changes all your making is a higher pressure in the passage ways but doesnt necssarily mean more oil is getting through because the oil passage is the stock size..all your getting is the same amount of oil shooting through at a higher pressure rate..am i wrong?
09-08-2013, 08:10 PM
#12
I've owned one and I wouldn't buy another one.
09-08-2013, 11:25 PM
#13
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How unfortunate. Mine doesn't leak and do not have oil control issues regardless of accel/decel as long as I keep it at 5.5qts. Have C5 brakes with Z06 pads so I can stop pretty suddenly. Mechanical gauge says everything is happy so...
09-09-2013, 08:27 AM
#14
How high are you spinning it in the lights? Maybe a low RPM engine can get by with it. Still, if you have owned enough oil pans from different mfgrs, for different kinds of racing, you would realize they aren't built like a drag race pan.
During the '80s I raced circle track cars. At first we had to use wet sump systems. Those pans, from different mfgrs, all were built like Cantons.
Check out Moroso drag race pans and you will see the difference. They are much lighter too.
During the '80s I raced circle track cars. At first we had to use wet sump systems. Those pans, from different mfgrs, all were built like Cantons.
Check out Moroso drag race pans and you will see the difference. They are much lighter too.
09-09-2013, 10:18 AM
#15
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How high are you spinning it in the lights? Maybe a low RPM engine can get by with it. Still, if you have owned enough oil pans from different mfgrs, for different kinds of racing, you would realize they aren't built like a drag race pan.
During the '80s I raced circle track cars. At first we had to use wet sump systems. Those pans, from different mfgrs, all were built like Cantons.
Check out Moroso drag race pans and you will see the difference. They are much lighter too.
During the '80s I raced circle track cars. At first we had to use wet sump systems. Those pans, from different mfgrs, all were built like Cantons.
Check out Moroso drag race pans and you will see the difference. They are much lighter too.
