Crank ? for 383 build.
09-09-2013, 01:29 PM
#1
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Crank ? for 383 build. So when taking the heads off my car to send to Lloyd Elliott I had the block covered and car cover at my brothers house bad strom and a week later rust in block so with that said.
My goal is a good weekend street machine on a budget able to take a 150 shot every now and than. I was not planing on a bottom end build so later down the road will be s60 rearend and bigger stall
My block will be but together at the machine shop that's doing the work to the block I just want to save a little money by buying the parts myself...and making it a 4 blot instead of 2
My plans for bottom in is 6" pro Comp I-Beam rods, SRP -5cc pistons. As for crank either scat 942-935056L or eagle 356-
10352375057E which one would be best for
my goal.
My goal is a good weekend street machine on a budget able to take a 150 shot every now and than. I was not planing on a bottom end build so later down the road will be s60 rearend and bigger stall
My block will be but together at the machine shop that's doing the work to the block I just want to save a little money by buying the parts myself...and making it a 4 blot instead of 2
My plans for bottom in is 6" pro Comp I-Beam rods, SRP -5cc pistons. As for crank either scat 942-935056L or eagle 356-
10352375057E which one would be best for
my goal.
09-09-2013, 03:46 PM
#6
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09-09-2013, 05:04 PM
#8
I am sure I am one of the ******** but from what I am hearing you don't have the budget or knowledge to do this well.
I mean you have started by looking at an Eagle cast crank and it is WELL know and repeatedly documented here that within the last 5 years or so those are complete garbage, buy that if you goal is to ruin a block and damage a set of heads.
Why don't you post pics of the rust? Maybe a blueberry hone will clean it up. Not a perfect solution but a whole lot better than overextending yourself building a garbage shortblock.
Not the answer you want but we have seen way too many inexperienced guys come in here and build cast crank or otherwise junk shortblock that are weaker and less powerful than the stock shortblock.
If I am an ******* for not wanting to see people keep repeating that mistake then I wear that title with pride.
4 bolt would be another place to save money, stud the 2-bolt with good machining and it will handle a generic stroker on a 150shot no problem.
I have compared a couple well done cars and with the same heads, more cam, more compression a well done hydraulic 383 made 7% more HP than a stock shortblock, again with the same CNC heads and BOTH cars are above average performers. Yes a stroker can get you some more power but the HP per dollar goes WAY WAY up compared to what you get from just a quality cleanup on a stock shortblock.
I mean you have started by looking at an Eagle cast crank and it is WELL know and repeatedly documented here that within the last 5 years or so those are complete garbage, buy that if you goal is to ruin a block and damage a set of heads.
Why don't you post pics of the rust? Maybe a blueberry hone will clean it up. Not a perfect solution but a whole lot better than overextending yourself building a garbage shortblock.
Not the answer you want but we have seen way too many inexperienced guys come in here and build cast crank or otherwise junk shortblock that are weaker and less powerful than the stock shortblock.
If I am an ******* for not wanting to see people keep repeating that mistake then I wear that title with pride.
4 bolt would be another place to save money, stud the 2-bolt with good machining and it will handle a generic stroker on a 150shot no problem.
I have compared a couple well done cars and with the same heads, more cam, more compression a well done hydraulic 383 made 7% more HP than a stock shortblock, again with the same CNC heads and BOTH cars are above average performers. Yes a stroker can get you some more power but the HP per dollar goes WAY WAY up compared to what you get from just a quality cleanup on a stock shortblock.
09-09-2013, 07:17 PM
#9
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[QUOTE=96capricemgr;17674210]I am sure I am one of the ******** but from what I am hearing you don't have the budget or knowledge to do this well.
I mean you have started by looking at an Eagle cast crank and it is WELL know and repeatedly documented here that within the last 5 years or so those are complete garbage, buy that if you goal is to ruin a block and damage a set of heads.
Why don't you post pics of the rust? Maybe a blueberry hone will clean it up. Not a perfect solution but a whole lot better than overextending yourself building a garbage shortblock.
Not the answer you want but we have seen way too many inexperienced guys come in here and build cast crank or otherwise junk shortblock that are weaker and less powerful than the stock shortblock.
If I am an ******* for not wanting to see people keep repeating that mistake then I wear that title with pride.
4 bolt would be another place to save money, stud the 2-bolt with good machining and it will handle a generic stroker on a 150shot no problem.
I have compared a couple well done cars and with the same heads, more cam, more compression a well done hydraulic 383 made 7% more HP than a stock shortblock, again with the same CNC heads and BOTH cars are above average performers. Yes a stroker can get you some more power but the HP per dollar goes WAY WAY up compared to what you get from just a quality cleanup on a stock shortblock.[/QUOTE
I don't care wat you think at all
...but for your info I'm having lloyd Elliott give me part # for this build because this is my 1st build and qant be the last
I mean you have started by looking at an Eagle cast crank and it is WELL know and repeatedly documented here that within the last 5 years or so those are complete garbage, buy that if you goal is to ruin a block and damage a set of heads.
Why don't you post pics of the rust? Maybe a blueberry hone will clean it up. Not a perfect solution but a whole lot better than overextending yourself building a garbage shortblock.
Not the answer you want but we have seen way too many inexperienced guys come in here and build cast crank or otherwise junk shortblock that are weaker and less powerful than the stock shortblock.
If I am an ******* for not wanting to see people keep repeating that mistake then I wear that title with pride.
4 bolt would be another place to save money, stud the 2-bolt with good machining and it will handle a generic stroker on a 150shot no problem.
I have compared a couple well done cars and with the same heads, more cam, more compression a well done hydraulic 383 made 7% more HP than a stock shortblock, again with the same CNC heads and BOTH cars are above average performers. Yes a stroker can get you some more power but the HP per dollar goes WAY WAY up compared to what you get from just a quality cleanup on a stock shortblock.[/QUOTE
I don't care wat you think at all
...but for your info I'm having lloyd Elliott give me part # for this build because this is my 1st build and qant be the last
09-09-2013, 09:33 PM
#10
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At the same time, you can find a built motor for cheaper than building one, there are multiple 383 LT1's making good power for sale on the forum for good prices. Maybe look into one of those to save money and get a good engine.
09-10-2013, 05:42 AM
#11
Or you could save money and use the stock crank. Yes 96caprice is very blunt with his info but before totally shrugging off his advice do a search for cast crank failure and you'll realize why he jumped down your throat. Put the build on hold and do some reading.
09-10-2013, 06:58 AM
#12
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Or you could save money and use the stock crank. Yes 96caprice is very blunt with his info but before totally shrugging off his advice do a search for cast crank failure and you'll realize why he jumped down your throat. Put the build on hold and do some reading.
09-10-2013, 07:07 AM
#13
No offense but maybe you shouldn't be so stubborn and take the advice from the guys who have been there done that. There's a wealth of knowledge on this forum. You should use it to your advantage. What Dwayne and bufmat said are spot on.
Slow. Down.
Slow. Down.
09-10-2013, 09:26 AM
#14
Please explain why you need to buy a NEW crank TODAY? Unless your stock crank is bent or broken you can just have it polished or turned 0.010 and use it, and it's good to over 700hp no issue. I don't think any of us have seen a stock crank fail in however many years we've been on these boards.
09-11-2013, 07:50 PM
#15
1. Cost-wise, the best thing you can do is simply clean up the current engine. I mean, seriously, a it of rust in the cylinders ain't a big concern.
2. If you ABSOLUTELY MUST have a stroker, then get a forged crank. Hell.....even the cheapest forged cranks from a reputable company is as good or better than the best cast cranks out there.
3. Only install an Eagle crank if you want to build a new engine that will never go over 3000 RPMs (and where's the fun in that
). Otherwise, you risk the whole engine to a catastrophic failure.....sooner as opposed to later.
Best of luck.
KW
2. If you ABSOLUTELY MUST have a stroker, then get a forged crank. Hell.....even the cheapest forged cranks from a reputable company is as good or better than the best cast cranks out there.
3. Only install an Eagle crank if you want to build a new engine that will never go over 3000 RPMs (and where's the fun in that
). Otherwise, you risk the whole engine to a catastrophic failure.....sooner as opposed to later.Best of luck.
KW
09-12-2013, 07:20 PM
#17
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I have a forged eagle crank in mine and it seems to do the job. I have about 5-6K miles on the build. The heads and cam are whats going to make your power. The stroker will help but mainly in the heads and cam. Put that with a good rockers and you'll be good for 400+ at the wheels
