GermanLSX

Hey mates


While im going to wait on a stroker motor taking my time for big power. A mild to wild SBC LT1 will suit my needs for now. Right now im going to go ahead and take the first few steps on motor upgrades specifically valve-train until im comfortable enough for head porting along with stroking. Ive decided to stay LT1 for now for several reasons. I already have a great running motor with impressive torque. It may not be better than LSX motors, but regardless ill have a blast with a mild build Small Block Chevy.

I have some questions on what cam you guys think I should run for my Daily Driver 6-speed. Did some research and most of the topics focus solely on drag racing. As for my goals, mine are more leaning towards street warrior & top speed. Power wise with valve train upgrade im expecting 330rwhp - 340lbs TQ to the wheels. Just wanted to get your opinions on what high rpm is safe on these stock bottom ends that are sustained for hours on end on our highways. If I should replace bearings while the motor is apart, recondition rods, crank, pistons, or I should leave the bottom end alone?

My goal is 280-300kmh~ [170-186mph], better standing mile time & mph. Best I did on this car bone stock was 267.8kmh = 166. Something quicker off the line is always a priority for me as well believe it or not.
Im looking for a cam that isnt a complete snail down low, accessible torque along the rpm range, great power up top.

Info on my current set-up is

Stock motor 157k miles
Bilstein shocks
eibach coil-overs, springs
Spohn performance 4140 sway bars and control arms
Brembo brakes cross drilled, 4 piston, hawk pads
New pair of shoes I just got; VMR V701’s 18x8.5 front, 18x10.5 rear Gun Metal
Michelin Pilot Sports AS 2’s 255/40/18’s, 295/40/18’s
LS1 driveshaft
Stock rear end I had to replace not too long ago.

Other than the list everything else is stock. Bolt-ons I was thinking Kooks or AR headers with an X-pipe, bullet mufflers. Im sure you guys can elaborate better than I can on the exhaust for these cars.

Anyways cheers cant wait

BALLSS

you are asking what cam for a 156k mi LT1 motor??

If so, given the milage, I would wait and rebuild the motor THEN add the new cam/heads.

I wouldn't spin a stock LT1, especially with that milage, past 5700RPM.

Two companies that are highly regarded for cams & head packages are Advanced Induction and LLoyd Elliott Portworks

pancho toco loco

iTrader: (8)

crane 227.......

DeltaElite121

iTrader: (1)

There is no magic bullet camshaft like you're asking for. There will ALWAYS be sacrifices with any cam you pick. That's part of build diversity and why it's so important you have a gameplan or you'll just end up disappointed in all aspects of your project. Want power up top? You'll sacrifice power down low for it. Want power down low? You'll do the exact opposite. Want a little of both? You make a sacrifice on both parts and end up with a mediocre setup.

I'd leave the stock cam in there. You'll just end up replacing that cam as soon as you build the motor anyways, so it's really a big fat waste of money and effort in that regard...

You really need to ask yourself what kind of budget you have in mind. Whatever that is, anticipate double the cost (because somehow, it's the small things that add up very quickly). If you can swing that, then you need to determine what else you'll need. More power = more factory stuff breaking. It's a never-ending cycle, but that's part of what makes it so gratifying changing everything.

GermanLSX

Thanks guys for the warnings. The thing is I was expecting these stock bottom ends to be stronger than a stock honda B20. The replies are kind of surprisingly discouraging from what I hoped the limit I can push these things

There really is no magic bullet cam im looking for. Its a no brainer about sacrifices on cams. Im not expecting any MPG, reliability, low end torque, tameness gains. Just a fun cam to toy around before I either go LSX swap or stroker LT1.

The plan & budget is the farthest thing im concerned about. Those 2 things are ready. In terms of set-up Comp cams, comp springs, rockers, pushrods, I dont see the issue if everything is set-up right. 2000k is set aside for a top end rebuild using stock bottom end, stock heads, tranny, and rear end.

There is no guarantee on anything, but the same applies for a complete stock LT1. You got to gamble to see what your able to get away with. Im willing to take a risk on this motor. So im not going to be shocked, surprised, disappointed if the motor blows. It happens!

Wether I go LT1 stroker or LSX is going to be determined how well a 90’s motor will hold up. I grew up wishing to own a classic design small block chevy. Its something about the old stuff I like.

So before I can Advance Induction & Loyd Elliot A call whats everyones experience on cammed daily drivers. I was looking into a longer duration with a lift not much higher than stock. Too high can be an overkill for my case.

Thanks guys.

Scoobie

iTrader: (8)

GermanLSX,

I've got a 97 SS here in Germany. I'd recommend a 22X duration cam. You could always start out with the Hot Cam to get your feet wet.

Scoobs

ZFreie

Been spinning(and beating the **** out of) my tune, bolt on, stock long block to 5900-6k almost daily for ~50k and I'm at 180k now Regular oil changes go along way

BALLSS

German

given your comments and staying with stock heads and no concern regarding current milage, for off the shelf cams:

Crane 227
Lingenfelter 211/219
Comp 503
Comp XFI 466

all will work with Comp 918 bee hive springs

your PCM will need to be tuned, mail order would work

BIGCAT7274

another couple to look at
http://elliottsportworks.com/?page_id=32

Catmaigne

iTrader: (6)

If the car was taken care of and your oil pressure is still good then I'd say go for it.

The 503 or the 466 will really help out.

GermanLSX

Thanks guys

Oil pressure is consistent 20 at idle/ 45~ at 5000+rpms. Though sometimes at WOT the needle has been moving back & forth between 5psi. Something im not too worried about, but interested in what it could be.

Running Castrol Edge Syn 5w-40 every 2000 miles with a Wix Filter. Replaced all seals & gaskets in front of the motor when I replaced the Water pump. Thing has never leaked at all since than. I dont have to worry about the optispark for now. Lifted the motor up last month because the pan gasket was leaking. Pulled the pan and the bottom end looked flawless. I could still see the cross hatchets on the cylinders. Does not burn oil what so ever.

Those cams look great after doing more research on each one. Regardless ill be happy with anything bigger than the LT4 hotcam. Advance Induction or Loyd Elliot would be a good place for a custom grind cam. That would be a good move vs off the shelf cam. Only concern is with Elliot I came across a few stories where guys had valve float [Around 5000rpms] on there custom grinds from them. In an effort that is my only concern considering this motor has & will exceed rpms 4800rpm+ for 2 hours daily. Lightweight valve-train is what im aiming for. Guaranteed on these pushrod engines. Hollow valves, good spring, 1.6 or 1.7 roller rockers, hardened pushrods, a good lifter.

The tuning (its all up to the tuner) but pulling some timing just to be on the safe side. Advance Induction would clarify that.

Oh one last thing whats up with the coolant level sensors on these cars? Did some searches and I hear its pretty common they go bad, but the light gets annoying so concluding if I should replace the sensor, the pigtail, or leave it alone? The new radiator was a direct fit for the sensor. Only way I check my coolant is by looking at the temp gauge & taking the cap off when cold